Shield

In a field of gules, a royal crown of gold and twelve rampant lions in gules on a silver border. On the bell, closed royal crown.[4]​[5]​ The shield was granted by Henry III of Castile on August 12, 1369 and in it reference is made by the twelve lions to the Ubetense knights present in front of the walls of Algeciras during the siege established "Sitio of Algeciras (1342-1344)") between 1342 and 1344 by Alfonso XI.[6]​.

Flag

As it appears in the Official Gazette of the Junta de Andalucía,[5]​ the flag of Úbeda consists of: «*Rectangular cloth, with a proportion between width and length of 3 to 5 m, in maroon color with the city's shield centered vertically and displaced horizontally at a distance from the sheath equivalent to 2/3 of the width of the flag. The size of the shield will be equivalent to two-fifths of the width of the cloth.

Hymn

The anthem of Úbeda was declared the official anthem of the city by the plenary session of the city council on May 14, 1982. The lyrics were written by Antonio Parra Cabrera, while the music was composed by maestro Emilio Sánchez Plaza.

Contenido

Úbeda está enclavada sobre una eminencia "Eminencia (topografía)") en la famosa comarca de La Loma "La Loma (Jaén)"), volcada hacia el valle del Guadalquivir, frente a la imponente Sierra Mágina y cerca del centro geográfico de la provincia de Jaén.

Municipality

The municipal area of ​​Úbeda is mostly dedicated to agriculture, especially olive groves, the most productive in the world. Until the seventies of the century, olive cultivation was important but it was alternated with others such as cereals or vines, but since then a sea of ​​olive trees has flooded the Úbeda hill. In the plains of the Guadalquivir and Guadalimar, intensive irrigated agriculture still predominates (cotton, onion, tobacco, beets, etc.).

The municipal area is divided into three separate parts, a main island and two exclaves.

The island of Úbeda or main municipal island, is located practically in the center of the province, limited by the municipalities of Baeza, Rus "Rus (Jaén)"), Arquillos, Vilches "Vilches (Spain)"), Navas de San Juan, Torreperogil, Sabiote, Villacarrillo, Peal de Becerro, Quesada "Quesada (Jaén)"), Cazorla, Santo Tomé "Santo Tomé (Jaén)"), Jódar, Cabra del Santo Cristo and Jimena "Jimena (Jaén)"). It includes the city of Úbeda, and its annexes Santa Eulalia "Santa Eulalia (Jaén)"), Guadalupe, El Donadío, San Miguel "San Miguel (Úbeda)") and San Bartolomé "San Bartolomé (Úbeda)").

Rincón de Úbeda is located on the north bank of the Guadalquivir River, limited by the municipalities of Torreperogil, Sabiote, Villacarrillo, Santo Tomé "Santo Tomé (Jaén)") and Cazorla. In this exclave are the annexes of Veracruz and Solana de Torralba.

Rincón de Olvera is located on the north bank of the Guadalimar River, between the municipalities of Navas de San Juan and Sabiote. Although there was a fortress and village in this exclave, it is not made up of any current population center.

In addition to the main nucleus, the municipality includes six other population centers, annexes in which a little more than 1,000 inhabitants reside in total. By size they are:

1. • Santa Eulalia "Santa Eulalia (Jaén)") (Santolaya).

2. • El Donadio.

3. • Solana de Torralba.

4. • Veracruz&action=edit&redlink=1 "Veracruz (Úbeda) (not yet written)").

5. • San Miguel "San Miguel (Úbeda)").

6. • San Bartolomé "San Bartolomé (Úbeda)").

Other villages completely unpopulated before the century are the town of Olvera,[7] Torre de San Juan —where the hermitage of San Juan Bautista existed— and Villarpardillo.

Hydrography

Four rivers irrigate the lands of Ubeta: Guadalquivir, Guadalimar, Guadiana Menor and Jandulilla, but none of them bathe the city. Also in its territory are the Giribaile, Doña Aldonza, Pedro Marín and Puente de la Cerrada reservoirs.

Climate

According to the Köppen climate classification, Úbeda has a Csa climate (Mediterranean climate). Climatologically, the winters are mild and the summers hot and dry.

Dehesas

The Cañada Real de El Paso is located to the east of the municipality and is an area of ​​pasture that served as a passage for the Mesta, and is currently a peri-urban park and recreational area. A few kilometers away is Mount Palomarejo, next to the Villarejo stream.

La Dehesa de la Torrecilla and Dehesa del Moro are located to the north. Searching the foothills of Sierra Morena, they come to light in areas where agriculture has not yet been able to reach, beautiful areas of native vegetation, gall oaks, holm oaks and cork oaks. In this area is the so-called "mar de la loma", an immense lake formed by the Giribaile reservoir.

Protected areas

In the municipality there are also areas declared a natural and special protection area (SPA), such as the Alto Guadalquivir Natural Area to the south of the municipality: the Doña Aldonza, Pedro Marín and Puente de la Cerrada reservoirs (Puente la Cerrá, in local speech). These reservoirs are heavily clogged, which is why a large amount of lake vegetation has reemerged, and in them you can find diverse fauna such as the common coot, ducks, flamingos or the swarm, with its bright blue plumage.

Origin

Legend says that Úbeda was founded by Tubal, a descendant of Noah. The name of the city would derive from the mythical tower of King Ibiut.

If we restrict ourselves to archaeology, the first settlements in Úbeda date back to the Copper Age, on the current Alcázar hill. In fact, the latest archaeological research has shown it to be six thousand years old; Úbeda is the “oldest city—scientifically documented—in Western Europe.” This is stated by the team led by Professor Francisco Nocete in light of the results of 35 Carbon-14 datings at the Eras del Alcázar site.[8]​[9]​.

There are Chalcolithic, Argaric, Oretani, Visigoth and late Roman remains in the current site where it sits. At the same time, there was previously an important oppidum Iberian population, called Iltiraka in the Iberian language, and later dependent on the Roman colony of Salaria, it is known as Úbeda la Vieja - or Ubeda Vethula -, being located in front of the mouth of the Jandulilla River in the Guadalquivir. In search of exchanges, the Greeks and later the Carthaginians arrived in Úbeda with imperialist purposes, being defeated by the Romans after long wars.

Under the Roman Empire, starting from the Battle of Ilipa in , the ancient Iberian city-state was romanized "Romanization (acculturation)"), and would be known as Betula —Baetula—, being the center of a large scattered population. In Gothic times, the vandals destroyed the entire region and its inhabitants began to concentrate on the site we know today, called Bétula Nova, for reasons that are largely unknown.

The city as an entity with a certain importance reappears with the arrival of the Arabs, in particular with Abd al-Rahman II, who refounded it with the name of Ubbada or Ubbadat Al-Arab —Úbeda "of the Arabs"—, with the intention of controlling the rebellious Mozarabs of Baeza from here. In the century it was the subject of dispute between the taifa kingdoms of Almería, Granada, Toledo and Seville, until its conquest by the Almoravids. As a Muslim city, it was surrounded by more defensive walls and became one of the most important cities in Al-Andalus, due to its crafts and trade. Thus it became a rich and important bastion to possess.

Middle Ages

During the year 1091, the king of Toledo, Al-Mamún, fought against the internal rebellion of the Andalusian Moors, with Úbeda surrendered by force at the hands of Alfonso VI. Starting in the century, the Castilian kings progressively increased the pressure on the Alto Guadalquivir and Úbeda was only mentioned in written sources as the scene of war episodes, for example when the region was the target of attacks by Alfonso VII of León, first in 1137 and later in 1147, at which time he seized Úbeda, Baeza and Almería. For ten years the city remained in the hands of the Castilians, until the Almohad counteroffensive forced them to withdraw in 1157. Reconquered and devastated by Alfonso VIII after the battle of Las Navas de Tolosa and the battle of Úbeda, it was lost shortly after. Meanwhile, the city was sacked and razed to the ground on several more occasions, with its population definitively massacred by the crusaders in the battle of 1212.

In the year 1233, Úbeda was definitively conquered by Ferdinand III of Castile after a six-month long siege, becoming a royal city and holder of an archpriestship:

A notable fact is that the taking of Úbeda was carried out through capitulation, avoiding a new massacre and enabling the coexistence of different ethnic groups that formed a population of various cultures (Arab, Jewish and Christian). For more than two centuries the city actively participated in the fight against the Muslims, enjoying broad autonomy in its local government, governed by the Council "Council (history)") supported by the twenty-four.

Decisive factor in this period is its important geostrategic value. For almost three centuries it was a border town, first outpost and then very close to the border between the kingdoms of Granada and Castile. This fact determines that the successive Castilian kings grant numerous privileges and concessions, such as the Fuero de Cuenca, to favor the establishment of a population, made up of Castilians and Navarrese-Aragonese, that remains in the face of adverse life circumstances typical of a border area. Thus it became one of the four "major cities of the reconquest of Andalusia."

Episodes such as that of 1368, in which the city is devastated due to the civil war between Pedro I of Castile and Enrique II of Trastámara, and the subsequent sacking of Pero Gil and the armies of Muhammed V of Granada fueled the rivalry between the local factions, Traperas against Arandas first, then Cuevas "Cueva (surname)") against Molinas "Molina (surname)") and Moyas "Moya (surname)") against Padillas "Padilla (surname)"), stained its history with blood until the end of the century. In fact, they led to the fact that, similar to what happened in Baeza, the walls and towers of the fortress were demolished in 1506 by royal order, in order to establish peace between these sides.

The province of Úbeda's jurisdiction extended from Torres de Acun (Granada) to Santisteban del Puerto, passing through Albanchez de Úbeda, Huesa and Canena, and in the middle of the century it also included in its jurisdictional district the towns of Cabra del Santo Cristo, Jimena "Jimena (Jaén)"), Quesada "Quesada (Jaén)"), Peal, Sabiote and Torreperogil.

Splendor

This accumulation of factors - geographical location and consequent control of communication routes, its extensive and rich jurisdiction, great alfoz "Alfoz (urbanism)") and presence of an increasingly powerful nobility - laid the foundations over the centuries for the splendor of the Úbeda of the century. At the end of the conquest of Granada, we witnessed an economic development of the city based on agriculture and an important horse ranch and its own ranch, which founded the period of greatest splendor of the city, being very important the clearing of forests and the enhancement of new lands. Peace and economic development brings with it a demographic increase, with the city reaching a population of 18,000 inhabitants, being one of the most populous in all of Spain. Starting with Ruy López Dávalos, Constable of Castile under Enrique III and Beltrán de la Cueva, valet of Enrique IV, his nobles found accommodation in high positions in the imperial administration.

After the Ubetense nobility, and the orders of chivalry, the next great privileged class is the clergy. The diocese of Jaén is enormously rich, its miter "Mitra (clothing)"), possibly, was one of the richest in Spain, and the Ubetense clergy had high positions in it. We also found a group of neighbors who have prospered—mostly Jews or Muladíes—and who generically would have been the germ of an incipient bourgeoisie. These are professionals, such as doctors, tailors, notaries, apothecaries and, naturally, a considerable number of rich merchants. Further down, there was a varied guild repertoire typical of a rich and expansive population nucleus, special mention to the guild of shepherds and ranchers. The army and the militia closed this large group. The third estate was a vast number of peasants from the lands of the nobles and small peasants.

Especially notable is the role of Francisco de los Cobos, secretary of Emperor Charles V. With him the taste for art enters Úbeda, and as if it were a small Italian court, at the hands of the architect Andrés de Vandelvira and his followers, Úbeda is filled with palaces. His nephew, Juan Vázquez de Molina, Secretary of State of Carlos I, and his son, Felipe II, continued what he had started. The humanist currents of the First Renaissance take strong root throughout Úbeda.

In 1526 Emperor Charles visited the city and swore to uphold the privileges, privileges and grants granted to Úbeda.

Slope

The centuries and years of decadence for the city, immersed in the general crisis of Spain, see its past splendor fading. The lack of a protectionist policy for crafts, imports of wool from Burgos, the rise in prices due to poor harvests, the unfair tax pressure for wars, corruption, the power of the Clergy, the inflationary process due to the abundance of metals, the continuous military levies, epidemics, and emigration to the Indies are some of the factors that contributed to this decline. Úbeda even lost control of the traffic of wood from the oaks and pines of the Segura, in favor of Sevillian merchants. All of this is decapitalizing the city, exacerbating social differences and increasing the misery of the majority. Some dates of the disasters that devastated the city at this stage were the plagues of 1585 and 1681 and the Lisbon earthquake of 1755, which destroyed many houses in the city. To top it off, the persecution of the new Christians and the expulsion of the Moors in 1609 will be seriously regretted by the Council, due to the economic impact of losing its most valuable economic fabric.

The stark decline became evident after 1700 with the long War of Succession. The residents of Úbeda will experience the War of Succession with increasing intensity. Their contributions in horses, weapons, ammunition, money or troops are continuous, making it sometimes difficult to understand where such forces come from in a people weakened by hunger and disease. Such was the tax pressure and injustice as the powerful classes were exempted, that the hungry population rioted on March 19, 1706, against the collectors of royal revenues. As a consequence of the war, Úbeda became extremely impoverished and conflict increased to unknown limits. The council had to sell its best properties to face urgent militia payments. There was undoubtedly a demographic recession, as the war coincided with crises of hunger and widespread disease. In these years, many towns in its territory became independent. It can be concluded that Úbeda suffered one of the worst moments in its history, only hitting rock bottom around 1735. But the damage in Úbeda and other places was done, and it was difficult to turn back the clock of History.

Later, with the Spanish War of Independence, during which the French remained between 1810 and 1813 in the city, the recovery was truncated, the hardships returned, looting and great economic damage were caused. The situation led Úbeda to a state of economic ruin, which had led it to extremes such as the absolute lack of livestock to work the fields, seeds to sow and even the most precise means for the population's subsistence.

The ecclesiastical confiscations of 1820 and 1836 would mean that all the convents in the city—with the exception of Santa Clara "Convento de Santa Clara (Úbeda)") and the Carmelites—were expropriated and sold at public auction. This would mean the total transformation of the city's urban spaces, changing the use of some of these buildings to house schools, barracks, prisons, etc. and, in the worst case scenario, their old buildings being demolished due to the threat of ruin. In short, the city recovered again until the end of the century; It is when it began to experience a small resurgence with the improvement in technical advances, which arrived late in the city, which continues to be a rural environment hardly affected by the industrial revolution and increasingly distant from the centers of power.

Recovery

They still had to suffer the effects of the Carlist wars and the successive liberal revolutions that convulsed the life of the city. The bases of liberalism in Úbeda are based on the predominance in politics of large landowners, and despotism and electoral distortions are established. At the end of the century the petite bourgeoisie with some Ubetan landowners revived activity in the city thanks to agriculture and industry. During the 1920s, regenerationist rhetoric, whose ambitious idea was to launch Úbeda into a new Renaissance, put into practice numerous reform and improvement projects in the city. In these years, education and basic services are extended. It was also at this time when work began on the Baeza-Utiel railway line, which would have brought the railway to Úbeda and would have provided an important railway connection with the Levant. The railway works, however, lasted for three decades and the line would finally be abandoned around 1964, when its construction was already well advanced.[11]​ Around this time, the activity of General Leopoldo Saro Marín was also very notable,[12]​ who, although not from Jaén, was related to the province and to Úbeda through family ties. In addition to the unborn railway, the influence of General Saro facilitated the construction of the municipal Library, the Parador de Turismo, the School of Arts and Crafts or the reconstruction of the Casa de las Torres.

Úbeda even had a daily newspaper published in the town, La Provincia "La Provincia (Úbeda)"), between 1921 and 1936.[13]​.

During the Civil War, violence, repression and political revenge plunged Úbeda into a long phase of depression. The city was not a war front, but it suffered the removal of prisoners from both sides. Thus, it began on the night of July 30 to 31, 1936, when the republican militias took out the political prisoners who, in number 47, were in the prison of Partido "Judicial Party (Spain)"), and murdered them. The postwar period is still remembered by contemporaries as "the years of hunger."

During the 60s and 70s, local industry had a strong rebound thanks to the development push, but it was insufficient to absorb the strong increase in population, driven by emigration. Slowly, what was «the Florence of Alta Andalusia», will reach its current place as a provincial reference, head of the "La Loma (Jaén)" region and as a center of industry and services at a regional level of growing importance.

On July 3, 2003, it was named, along with its neighbor Baeza, a World Heritage Site.[1]​.

Chronology and historical curiosities

• - 1091: Alfonso VI consummates his disagreement with the Cid in Úbeda.

• - 1212: After the battle of Las Navas de Tolosa, also called Battle of Úbeda, the city is assaulted, looted and destroyed and practically the entire population, along with the refugees from Baeza, are put to the sword by the Christian troops. Two years later the Almohads recovered it.

• - 1233: Ferdinand III takes the city at the end of June 1233.

• - 1235: Fernando III grants Úbeda the Olvera Castle—the current enclave of the corner of Olvera.

• - 1275: The king grants him the castles of Tíscar. Huesa and Belerda "Belerda (Jaén)").

• - 1330: Popular mutiny against the nobility, whose leader, Juan Núñez Arquero, pays with the gallows.

• - 1342-1344: Site of Algeciras "Siege of Algeciras (1342-1344)") by the council of Úbeda. As a result of this conflict, the legend of the twelve lions that appear on the shield of Úbeda arises, symbolizing the 12 heroic knights who achieved its conquest.

• - 1368: The irruption of Pedro Gil devastated the city, destroying the temples and burning all the municipal, parish and notarial archives.

• - 1369: Henry II restored the title of city, granting it its current coat of arms, distinguishing it with the Motto of "Very Noble, Very Loyal and Ancient City, protection and exaltation of the Kingdoms of Castile".

• - 1396: The night of San Juan, battle between the Aranda and Trapera, near Puente Vieja—place of Úbeda la Vieja—. A century later the Cueva and Molina will continue this deadly rivalry.

• - 1489: Visit to Úbeda by the Catholic Monarchs. Legend has it that in front of the Puerta de Granada, Queen Isabel promised for the first time not to change her shirt until she expelled the Moors from her domain.

• - 1526: Emperor Charles solemnly visits the city and swears to uphold the privileges, privileges and grants granted to Úbeda.

• - 1530: The construction of cantilevered balconies was prohibited so as not to take away the sun and light from the streets.

• - 1562: Diego de Los Cobos") writes the Founding Statutes of the Hospital of Santiago "Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda)"), and the works begin.

• - 1591: Saint John of the Cross enters the city, where he dies on December 14.

• - 1845: Richard Ford "Richard Ford (Hispanist)") (1796-1858), the English traveler and Hispanist, collects in his Manual of travelers through Andalusia the monumental image of the city although he regrets the abandonment of agricultural lands; A reflection of this abandonment is his comment that the palace of Francisco de los Cobos still existed, although, yes, cruelly degraded.

Hills of Úbeda

The popular saying of leaving or "walking through the hills of Úbeda" has its origins in the reconquest of the Jaén city of Úbeda from the Almohads, which occurred in 1233.

It seems that one of the most important captains of King Ferdinand III "the Saint", Álvar Fáñez[note 1]​—alias "el Mozo"—disappeared moments before entering into combat and appeared in the city once it had been reconquered. When the king asked where he had been, the other, without hesitation, answered that he had gotten lost in the hills of Úbeda. The phrase was taken ironically by the courtiers, since the hills of Úbeda, although they are important, are not large enough to justify the soldiers going astray and it was perpetuated as a sign of cowardice.

Currently it is used when someone intervenes in a conversation with something that has nothing to do with what is being talked about. Another version of the same event says that Álvar Fáñez had fallen in love with a Moorish woman, and that is why he missed the attack, as he had an appointment at the same time with his lover.[15]​.

Úbeda cuenta con una población de (INE "Instituto Nacional de Estadística (España)") 2025).

Town planning

It is summarized by saying that, as in the Baeza complex, it is a Renaissance with its own identity. These cities provide an authentic compilation of the ideas, solutions and practices of Renaissance urbanism, formulated by the Italian writers of the 20th century, but adapting them to a cultural socio-political reality very different from the Italian one. Úbeda is "chair of the renaissance." The urban planning lesson offered by the city transcends the regional and national, being valued among the most innovative urban planning of the Spanish Renaissance which, after being reworked, will have a new projection in Latin America.

The urban planning of the city is configured in these main phases:

• - City-acropolis: Around the hill of Ibiut, currently the hill of the fortress, an Iberian oppidum was fortified that ended up constituting the matrix of the citadel of Úbeda.

• - Hispanic-Muslim heritage (1st century): the acropolis city expands the walled enclosure with its respective fortress on the edge of the natural cornice, medinas with minimally structured road networks along the axes that connect with the city gates.

• - Mudejar city (1st century): border territory with the Nasrid kingdom. The city continues to be heir, in its basic lines, of the Islamic structure: reinforcement of the walled enclosure and Christianization of the old mosques.

• - Renaissance city (century, Golden Age): the socioeconomic boom explains the unusual renovation carried out on the Mudejar city, the Renaissance reforms are juxtaposed to the medieval image and represent the construction of symbolic spaces directed by the civil powers. The structure of the city is consolidated and reaches its urban and architectural plenitude. The noble palaces and houses of Ubetense are built with Italian models and French notes - more than 250 have been cataloged - whose models continue until the 19th century, the beginning of the city's decline.

The greatest originality of Úbeda occurs in the internal restructuring operations carried out on the original Mudejar city:

• - Opening of Placetas: for new public or residential buildings of a certain entity.

• - Architecture focusing on visuals: in line with the aim of perspective and with the Renaissance theory of "closed street".

• - Corner solutions: towers and brilliant compositions developed on angled edges that contribute very effectively to the reclassification of the inherited Mudejar city.

• - An unprecedented urban operation in Spain, the Vázquez de Molina square: in addition to its extraordinary architectural quality, it represents an intervention that makes the urban organization more complex to represent the new precinct of power, the spatial and formal concretion of the political and economic aristocracy that was configured during the Renaissance period.

Over the centuries, the palace became the prototype of stately and institutional architecture, and stands out as the most significant element in the Ubetense fabric. The nobles compete in the majesty of their residences.

It has an area of ​​35.3 ha, making it one of the largest in Spain. Of them, the world heritage monumental complex occupies 2.8 hectares.

The Plaza de Andalucía: As such, it was opened in the year 1400, when the walled area that faced the San Isidoro collation was carved out. It housed the famous Toledo Gate.[17] It was known as "Plaza de Arriba", although it received its historical name from Toledo due to its proximity to the gate of the same name, the main gate of the city, framed by a large monumental arch of Toledo that was the beginning of the important Camino Real of the Imperial City. Emerging spontaneously at a crossroads around the door, it was demolished in the middle of the century. Bakers, butchers, fishmongers, gardeners and other merchants traded in its porches, as it was a food market until the current Coronada market was erected. In 1930, the sculpture complex of Ubetense's godson, General Saro, was installed, which is why for many years, until the current name, this square was known, and there are still many Ubetenses who call it that, as General Saro Square.

Around it, the historic city maintained a system of radial growth until the last century. From this old crossroads in the historic center, roads and highways start that link with neighboring towns and cities in the kingdom. This kilometer 0 of Ubeta is commonly called Plaza Vieja; or Plaza de Toledo, also Plaza de Arriba, Plaza del Arrabal, Plaza del Comercio, or Plaza del Reloj; or General Saro, or Andalusia, in their most recent names. More specifically, under the fresco of the image of the Virgin of Remedies, located in the clock tower, the place where Emperor Charles V swore the privileges and privileges of the city, the symbolic epicenter of Ubeta would be located. From this radiocentric nucleus the main arteries will emerge: to the west, with Obispo Cobos Street, towards the Hospital of Santiago "Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda)"); Trinidad Street to the north; Rastro Street, extension to Cava Street, to the south; Corredera de San Fernando street to the east and Real street that penetrates the intramuros historic center, to the southeast. The nerve center of the population would have moved outside the walls to this square forever, which even today has that character of vital center of the city and indisputable epicentric character.

• - Plaza de Andalucía.

• - Plaza de Andalucía with the Trinity Church in the background.

• - Porches in the Plaza de Andalucía.

Mesones and Obispo Cobos streets: A multitude of inns, taverns and inns were established on this axis, which were located on this busy road given its proximity to the populous Plaza de Andalucía, on the historic Camino Real de Toledo, Baeza and Jaén.

In the century after demolishing the Puerta Nueva, a wider promenade "Salón (urbanism)") was opened that would reach the Hospital of Santiago "Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda)") and that maintained the architectural schemes of the Renaissance: Obispo Cobos Street, popularly known as "Calle Nueva". Its extension was Paseo del León – current Cristo Rey Avenue. Given its importance as a vital axis of the city, in recent decades it has become the most commercial and important street in the city.

• - Mesones Street.

• - Obispo Cobos Street.

Starting in the second half of the last century, the layout of interurban infrastructures that cut the radial model along transversal axes from west to east began to be superimposed on this radial model centered on the Plaza de Andalucía.

The main system was defined by Avenida de la Constitución, Calle Cruz de Hierro, Calle Corredera de San Fernando, Calle Rastro, Calle Ancha, Calle Sagasta and Calle Obispo Cobos. This ring allows you to circumambulate the historic center, and the radial access roads to the center reach it, and from it, the different access routes to the hamlet and monumental area depart.

Úbeda, lacking a rational expansion plan, was built on the primitive roads that crossed the municipality; This is how the main axis was born: following the national highway from the west, the Avenida de la Ciudad de Linares, passing through Avenida de Ramón y Cajal, which crosses the modern center from east to west, being the most populous and busiest street in the city, and continuing with Avenida de la Libertad, which goes out to the east.

• - Ramón y Cajal Avenue.

• - Trinidad Street.

• - Linares City Avenue.

• - Porches in the San Fernando Corridor.

A second road corridor further north and parallel to the previous one is formed by the old ring road, configuring the Cronista Juan de la Torre street - Cristóbal Cantero avenue axis. From north to south, the city is organized around Torrenueva Street as an extension of Trinidad Street, and Antonio Machado Avenue as an extension of Trillo Street.

• - Don Cristóbal Cantero Avenue.

• - Torrenueva Street.

Recently, the Ronda de Antonio Muñoz Molina - or South Ronda - is a good, although partial, attempt to facilitate the entrance to the historic center from the west and along the southern cornice, but the continuity of this road until reaching the Torreperogil road remains to be resolved.

From the middle of the century, the expansions of officially protected neighborhoods will emerge and with them multi-family buildings and blocks, new educational centers and churches with few artistic pretensions. New growth is emerging to the northeast, with neighborhoods such as Cristo del Gallo or San Pedro; to the west, along Cristo Rey Avenue, the Salesian school and, as a unique example of a garden city, to the northwest, with the Colonia de San Rafael. A new concept of city and man begins, already far from tradition.

• - Paseo del León: It is the neighborhood that rises to the left of the Hospital of Santiago "Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda)"), up to the Jódar road. Its name comes in honor of the lions in the hospital, where it begins. Prior to the French invasion, it was known as the Alameda promenade, of which the council notes its total felling and destruction after the revolt, already in 1814.

• - The Esplanade: It received its name after the leveling of some hills in 1863. Once the leveling was achieved, the municipality created a walk, called the New Tower. In 1914 the Esplanade was urbanized, losing much of its extension. With the construction of the San Juan de la Cruz institute and the health center on the park, Úbeda once again sees its green areas diminished.

• - The North Park: After the frustration over the loss of the green area of ​​La Explanada in the 1970s, the idea arose of looking for a new area to enable a large park in the city. Thus, a huge piece of land measuring several hectares in size was reserved. The park was inaugurated after many vicissitudes in 2009, constituting a beautiful recreation area, around which new housing neighborhoods are expanding.

• - 28 de Febrero avenue area—old Jódar highway—: New housing developments appear along the old road, such as the Egido de San Marcos neighborhood, and agro-industrial activities served from the old Jódar highway. From this road you can also access the fairgrounds area.

In Úbeda there are the following industrial spaces:

• - Los Cerros Industrial Estate, the most important of all, located in the northern area of ​​the city, recently expanded.

• - La Alberquilla Industrial Park, the old industrial area, sometimes called to disappear due to its proximity to the eastern neighborhoods.

• - San Isidro Agricultural Estate and San Miguel Industrial Estate, located in the north of the city, away from the urban area, next to the Huertañalda urbanization.

• - Polígono Agrícola La Unión, newly built located between the Jódar highway and 28 de Febrero avenue, in the western area of ​​the city.

In addition, new logistics and industrial spaces are planned in the municipality, currently paralyzed or abandoned:.

• - La Loma logistics and business park, the construction was planned in collaboration with Baeza, at the confluence of the border of both municipalities and promoted as a link between the two new highways, the Olivar Highway and the Andrés de Vandelvira Highway. It will occupy 120 hectares between both municipalities, with 43% of these lands for productive uses - half of them will be allocated to a technological zone -, 41% for industrial use and 4% for tertiary uses, in addition to green areas and equipment.[18]​.

• - El Chantre agroindustrial estate, in El Donadío, promoted the construction of 46 warehouses, to facilitate in situ the processing and transformation of fruit and vegetable products from Las Vegas.[19]​.

agricultural sector

After the failure of the large local industry, and due to the wealth of its area and the large cultivated area, the city has retreated again towards this sector, which has expanded an important agricultural base, in percentage terms, being able to employ two or three thousand people full time. The intensive and super-productive olive grove is the greatest contributor to the family economy and the axis that nourishes the activity of a multitude of related industries and services. Previously, sheep farming and poultry farming had also been very significant, although they are now in clear decline. It is possibly today the city with the most olive oil production in the world, given that Villacarrillo, as its biggest competitor, extends beyond its region and that oil is considered from its authentic origin and not from Villacarrillo. Therefore, Úbeda is the municipal area with the largest production of olive oil in the world.[20]​.

Secondary sector

The most important industries of old Úbeda were silk, cloth, dyes, yarns and saffrons, cloths, thread, linen, hemp, cordobans, leather and chamois, ceramics and esparto "Esparto (fiber)"). With the exception of esparto grass, which did not disappear until 1970 - except for luxury crafts - and ceramics, which survived for practical reasons, the rest is lost as a result of the economic imbalance of the War of Independence, ruining the efforts of centuries. The mulberry trees that surrounded the city had been lost, and flax, hemp and sumac were no longer cultivated, causing the city to starve. To these first industries, we had to add those derived from the cultivation of the vine - stills -, the beam oil factories, soap factories, tallow candles, etc., without forgetting the abundant flour mills, fulling mills and tanneries.

Currently, the resurgent processing sector has the greatest weight in the olive grove agroindustrial conglomerate.

In the city of Úbeda, industrious par excellence, some of its traditional craft activities paved the way for a true basic and powerful industrial development, which could generate industrial plants of considerable size that reached their peak in the third quarter of the century. The cordage industry developed the manufacture of esparto grass baskets for oil mills, and from there the transformation into synthetic and textile cordage would take place; ironwork and boilermaking would be the origin of an important foundry industry and manufacturing of industrial and oil mill machinery; Tinsmithing is at the origin of the tap industry. The ceramic craftsmanship, which was maintained, also paved the way for the construction materials industry, etc. Metallurgy gave rise to two large industries: The Palacín Foundry and the Fuentes-Cardona Foundry.[21]​.

Already in 1970, a third of the active population was employed in the city's industries, some of which had more than two hundred jobs. But the industrial crisis, which in Spain coincides with the so-called "Spanish transition", was strongly felt in Úbeda; although yes, unlike other larger industrial centers, here without the support of the political actions of the so-called industrial reconversion. In Úbeda, the imagination and resources of businessmen have been the springboard that has allowed us to overcome the disaster of the disappearance of its most employing industries, without the alternative of support from official public sector plans. The lack of employment and professional opportunities has caused emigration to Madrid and Barcelona.

Tertiary sector

Based on a very ancient commercial tradition, it has experienced significant diversification – workshops, financial activities, consultancy, real estate, etc. – and has expanded its employment offer by developing public services, such as education and health, which are centralized in Úbeda to serve the population of the eastern half of the province. The hotel and restaurant industry, in the process of expansion along with tourism, employs an increasingly large population.

Evolution of municipal outstanding debt

The concept of outstanding debt contemplates only debts with savings banks and banks related to financial credits, fixed income securities and loans or credits transferred to third parties, therefore excluding commercial debt.

La ciudad cuenta con 48 monumentos notables, y más de otro centenar de edificios de interés, casi todos ellos de estilo renacentista, en equilibrio perfecto con volúmenes árabes, góticos o barrocos. Aunque curiosamente a los viajeros románticos de los siglos y les impresionó más el sabor musulmán de sus calles que ese esplendor renacentista. Todo este patrimonio llevó a Úbeda a ser la segunda ciudad de España nombrada conjunto histórico-artístico, en el año 1955. En el año 1975 recibió el nombramiento del Consejo de Europa como Ciudad Ejemplar del Renacimiento.[23]​ Por último, en 2003 fue nombrada Patrimonio de la Humanidad, junto con Baeza, por la Unesco.[1]​.

Por la ciudad se distribuyen nueve edificios declarados monumento nacional, y diecinueve declarados bien de interés cultural "Bien de interés cultural (España)") (BIC), a los que hay que añadir otros dos en su término municipal. Aunque el patrimonio es inmenso, hay que mencionar que como en otras ciudades históricas, una parte importante del mismo no ha sobrevivido hasta nuestros días, por diversos devenires. Es mucho lo que se ha perdido. En todo caso, del impresionante conjunto actual destaca el grado de conservación de muchos edificios, que aún conservan como detalles dignos de admiración las puertas de madera claveteada y sus aldabas de hierro, los faroles y las rejas.

Vazquez de Molina Square

It constitutes the monumental heart of Úbeda and forms a model of urbanism and planning unprecedented in Spain until then.

• - Sacred Chapel of the Savior (BIC): Presiding over the square, it is undoubtedly the most representative and beloved monument in the entire city. The market in front of the Sacred Chapel is, without a doubt, one of the most symbolic spaces in the city, adopting the function of a sacred theater, which had its proscenium in the atrium of the temple and the scene in the lithographic altarpiece on the façade.

• - Front façade of the Sacred Chapel of El Salvador.

• - Main Altar of the Chapel of the Savior.

• - Vault of the Sacred Chapel of El Salvador.

• - Basilica of Santa María de los Reales Alcázares (BIC): The emblematic Main Church.

• - Basilica of Santa María.

• - Interior of the Basilica of Santa María.

• - Palacio de las Cadenas (BIC): Current headquarters of the Úbeda City Council"), also known as the Vázquez de Molina palace.

• - Palace of the Chains.

• - Interior patio of the Palacio de las Cadenas.

• - Palacio de las Cadenas from the Town Hall Square.

• - Deán Ortega Palace (BIC): Next to the Sacred Chapel of El Salvador. National monument. Parador de Turismo since 1928. Museum hotel.

• - Palace of Dean Ortega.

• - Interior patio of the Palace of Dean Ortega.

• - Interior patio of the Palace of Dean Ortega.

• - Palace of the Marquis of Mancera (BIC): Typical example of a towered urban fortress. Residence of Pedro de Toledo y Leiva, first Marquis of Mancera, captain and fifteenth viceroy of Peru. The Council met in its tower, called the Treasurer, which was built on a very ancient tower of the defensive line of the fortress itself, and mounted on the missing arch of the fortress of Úbeda, the main entrance door to it.

• - Palace of the Marquis of Mancera.

• - Facade of the Palace of the Marquis of Mancera.

• - Palace of the Marquis of Mancera.

• - The Bishop's Prison: Known as “the Impartement”. Today, the courts are in what was previously called the Palacio del Moro - in the Alcázar - and below it, in the remodeling works of the court, remains of Iberian necropolises dating back to the years 1200-1400 BC have been found.

• - El Pósito: Old warehouse renovated in the century as a civil prison. Current Police Station of the National Police Corps.

• - The House of Juan de Medina. Pensioner's home since the 1930s.

• - The Venetian Fountain: It follows an octagonal fountain model symbolizing the source of life. A diplomatic gift from the Venetian Senate to the secretary of Emperor Charles V of Germany, Francisco de los Cobos.[24]​.

• - Ruins of the medieval palace of Orozco: in front of the parador, the ruins of the old medieval Palace of Orozco have also appeared, pending excavation and restoration.[25]​.

• - The Casa del Regidor: the Plateresque doorway of the Casa del Regidor, located between the temple of Santa María and the Cárcel del Obispo.

• - Statue to Vandelvira: in a central space of the square, stands the statue to the architect Andrés de Vandelvira, the work of the sculptor Francisco Palma Burgos.

Intramural

• - The Hospital de los Honrados Viejos del Salvador (BIC): declared a national monument along with the Chapel of the Savior. Located to the right of the Sacra Capilla del Salvador is Calle Baja del Salvador, which leads to a viewpoint from which you can see the Sierras de Cazorla and Mágina.

• - May 1st Square: it was the main square of Ubeta. It is colloquially known as Market Walk. From Plaza Vázquez de Molina, along Juan Ruiz González Street, we can go up to this large main square, which was the main square in medieval Úbeda. It originally followed the model of a Castilian square, and redeveloped in the 19th century, from where its current appearance comes, it is presided over by the marble monument to San Juan de la Cruz - by the sculptor Francisco Palma Burgos. On one side of the square is a secondary education institute, on one side of this building is the façade of the missing church of San Andrés. Two notable buildings are preserved in the square, the church of San Pablo and the old town hall houses.

• - The Church of San Pablo "Iglesia de San Pablo (Úbeda)") (BIC): this church with ancient foundations, one of the most beautiful in Úbeda, had the great privilege of hosting the Council of Úbeda, to follow the immemorial custom, hold its town hall meetings in the chapel of San Martín.

• - Church of San Pablo.

• - Detail of the church of San Pablo.

• - Interior of the Church of San Pablo.

• - Church of San Pablo.

• - The Old Town Hall —also called Council Palace or Old Town Hall—: attributed to Francisco del Castillo, with its double Italian arch. The arcades that surrounded its entire space or the adjacent and monumental building that was the Alhóndiga "Alhóndiga (building)"), in the same square, have disappeared. Current María de Molina professional music conservatory.

• - Old town hall houses.

• - Old town hall houses.

• - Detail of San Miguel, patron saint of Úbeda.

• - Convent of San Miguel and Oratory of San Juan de la Cruz: continuing along San Juan de la Cruz street is the convent of San Miguel, of Discalced Carmelites, and the oratory of San Juan de la Cruz, where the mystic arrived on September 27, 1591 and died on December 14 of that same year. The oratory is in the baroque style, with a beautiful altarpiece. Inside, a museum dedicated to the mystic with interesting baroque works.[26]​.

• - Convent of San Miguel.

• - Oratory of San Juan de la Cruz.

• - Main altar of the Basilica of San Juan de la Cruz in the convent of San Miguel.

• - Relics of Saint John of the Cross.

Wall

The wall of Úbeda is declared an asset of cultural interest "Asset of cultural interest (Spain)").[29]​ Due to the strategic-defensive importance it acquired, its walling was impressive, as can still be seen today. In addition to its ancient function as a defense bastion, it was later used as a customs office for muleteers and merchants and for pest control.

After its oblivion and dismantling, it is still largely preserved, although demolished and partially occupied by the farmhouse, highlighting three of its old doors and quite a few towers.

The main doors that remain are:

• - The Puerta del Losal: Mudejar arch of the century.

• - The Puerta de Granada: gave access to the old Camino Real de Granada. There is also a watering pillar from time immemorial. Tradition says that Queen Isabella the Catholic went through this door to conquer Baza "Baza (Granada)").

• - The Puerta de Santa Lucía: supposedly the Puerta de Ibiut, of which the barbican was demolished in 1855, which can still be seen under San Lorenzo.

• - Losal Gate.

• - Wall and Gate of Granada.

• - Puerta de Santa Lucía.

As for the towers, it is worth highlighting:

• - The Torre de las Arcas —or “El Castellón”—, in the Corredera de San Fernando, an octagonal albarrana tower where the treasury of the Municipal Council was kept.

• - The Clock Tower, its shadow symbolically marks the center of Úbeda, in the Plaza Vieja—current Plaza de Andalucía—; It houses the fresco in front of which Charles I swore the privileges, and the municipal bells, with a beautiful Renaissance-style upper pavilion.

• - The Tower of the Knights, on Cava Street —next to the Portillo del Santo Cristo. It can be visited, it has been set up as an interpretation center for the wall and medieval Úbeda.[30]​.

• - Tower of the Arks.

• - Tower of the Arks.

• - Clock Tower.

• - Tower and Wall of Portillo del Santo Cristo.

• -

View of olive groves from the Redonda de Miradores promenade

Paseo Redonda de Miradores: The southern part of the wall is divided into the Paseo Alto and the Paseo Bajo, and is largely a beautiful walk, since from it you can see the Sierra Mágina and the Sierra de Cazorla, in addition to the typical landscape of the "sea of olive trees" aligned over the countless small hills of the Guadalquivir Valley.

• - Huerto del Carmen: It is a place worth highlighting within this enclosure, next to the Puerta del Losal, for its picturesque walls and terraced gardens. Next to the wall of San Millán, there is a pool that collects the water that flows from an underground gallery that linked the citadel with outside the walls.

Extramural

Outside the walls there are also other important monuments:

• - Church of San Nicolás de Bari "Church of San Nicolás (Úbeda)") (BIC): a beautiful Gothic church rarely visited because it is far from the usual circuits. It has two covers—one Gothic and the other Renaissance—by Andrés de Vandelvira. Inside is the Dean's chapel with a plateresque doorway.

• - Church of San Nicolás de Bari.

• - Altarpiece of the Church of San Nicolás de Bari.

• - Interior of the Church of San Nicolás de Bari.

• - Church of San Millán: in a medieval suburb. Romanesque-Mudejar type. Its rich heritage went up in flames in July 1936.

• - Church of San Millán.

• - Church of San Millán.

• - Hospital de Santiago "Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda)") (BIC): the other symbol of the city along with El Salvador. The culminating work of Andrés de Vandelvira, it currently functions as a multi-service center for conferences and exhibitions. Flanked by four tall towers, the chapel is especially interesting, with paintings by Pedro de Raxis and Gabriel Rosales, the staircase, the sacristy and ante-sacristy, the side patios and the large central patio with Genoese white marble columns polished in Carrara. A garden has been built in the backyard. The Hospital was built in the west of the city, on the entrance route that came along the Toledo road, and which caused a disfigurement of the until then rational urban expansion of the city. The motivations for growing towards the west could have been the existence of a large number of inns (Mesones Street) and new constructions (Obispo Cobos Street) that were formed in search of travelers who came to Úbeda along this road, undoubtedly the busiest in the city.

• - Exterior of the Santiago Hospital.

• - Main patio of the Santiago Hospital.

• - Main patio of the Santiago Hospital.

• - Vault of the main staircase of the Hospital of Santiago.

• - Facade of the Santiago Hospital.

• - Back of the Santiago Hospital.

• - Church of San Isidoro: it was an Arab fortress or fort, to defend the wall to the west. With Gothic façades, the interior was a Renaissance arrangement by Alonso Barba – a disciple of Vandelvira. The monumental cruise "Cruise (architecture)") stands out especially. In the place occupied by the belfry there was a tower that was the most slender in the city, restored several times. But in 1755 an earthquake seriously damaged it and in 1848, due to the threat of ruin and due to a complaint, it was demolished and replaced by the aforementioned belfry.

• - Church of San Isidoro.

• - Church of San Isidoro.

• - Church of San Isidoro.

Outside the urban area

• - Ariza Bridge (BIC): bridge over the Guadalimar River, ordered to be built by the Council of Úbeda and designed by Andrés de Vandelvira. Still visible and possibly condemned to destruction after disappearing under the Giribaile reservoir, while the project to move it stone by stone to Úbeda has been forgotten.

• - Archaeological Zone of Úbeda la Vieja —Iltiraka or Salaria— (BIC): with numerous Ibero-Roman and earlier remains, in particular a fragment of a wall from the century and Cyclopean remains. Still unexcavated, although it is known that it has been quite looted.[31]​.

• - Old Bridge, at the foot of the Úbeda la Vieja hill is this imposing medieval bridge over the Guadalquivir, recomposed in various periods on the remains of the old Roman bridge, in the middle of the Roman road from Cástulo towards the road called "El Paso", in the direction of Granada and Baza "Baza (Granada)").

• - Sanctuary of Gavellar, dated 1381, with a beautiful colonnade and also in notable Renaissance style.

Other monuments - all of them in poor condition or in danger of disappearance - are the Church of San Bartolomé "San Bartolomé (Úbeda)"), the Torre de Garci Fernández -on a cyclopean wall-, the Dolmen del Encinarejo,[32]​ the impressive ruins of the hermitage and inn of Our Lady Mother of God of the countryside, the Molino-Palomo and on the other hand, the hermitage of San Ginés, integrated into the nineteenth-century cemetery.

In addition, other smaller units, such as old farmhouses, towers, old potteries, fountains and basins, farmhouses and farms for agricultural work that support the economy of the region, are scattered throughout the municipality. More than twenty-five rural complexes subject to protection regulations, such as the mansion-fortress of El Sotillo, the Renaissance Casa de Monsalve, the farmhouse of Teatino, Martín Ibáñez, Villatorrente, La Triviña, El Chantre, Torrubia or the Casa de Ana Prieta, Tres Cortijos, Torremochuela, Casería del Camarero.

Also notable is the extensive network of municipal agricultural roads that cross the municipality of Úbeda, with the main roads being: Camino de los Yeseros, Camino de la Vega, Camino de la Hoya del Negro, Camino de la Carralancha, Camino de Casería Monsalve, Camino de la Triviña, Camino de Santa Eulalia a Guadalupe, Camino de San Antonio, Camino de Valdejaén and Camino de Calatrava, among others. Many of these roads are in the inventory, recovery or repair phase, which also constitutes part of the municipal inventory of rural assets.

Missing

Between the Hospital of Santiago "Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda)") and Carrera de Baeza - in the current streets of Obispo Cobos and Avenida de Cristo Rey - the Alameda del León, a public garden or avenue, was built around 1558. The Alameda de la Carrera Vieja, also called Carrera de Santiago, was destroyed during the war against the French in 1810, and despite an attempt to rebuild it, its space was finally occupied with buildings during the century.

There were fifteen ecclesiastical convents, both for women and men, that existed in the city until the confiscation; Of them, eight have disappeared, completely those of San Antonio, San Nicasio, San Juan de Dios, Espíritu Santo and La Coronada. In San Andrés, the façade of the church, an interesting patio and a piece of the façade are preserved; that of San Francisco maintains two façades and part of the nave of the church; and finally the ruins of La Merced whose façade is at risk of falling.

Unfortunately, in the darkest decades of the century some valuable buildings were demolished and even their remains moved stone by stone to other cities, such as the demolished Palacio de los Aranda,[38]​ their remains were purchased by the Pickmans and can currently be seen in the Santa Cruz neighborhood "Santa Cruz (Seville)") of Seville on Lope de Rueda Street, 21.

Another monumental doorway from Ubeta that was looted at the beginning of the century is the one that can be seen today on a façade of the Rodríguez Acosta Foundation in Granada.

Catering

The supply of drinking water to Úbeda is carried out by the Úbeda Water Service, through Acciona Agua Servicios, belonging to the Acciona Group. In 2011, the company obtained the concession for a twenty-year term to manage the municipal water supply, sewerage and wastewater treatment service, distributing about 7,300 m³ daily, which represents an allocation of about 207 l/inhabitant/day.

The water that supplies the municipality comes fundamentally from the high networks of the La Loma Consortium,[39] controlled by the company Somajasa (Sociedad Mixta del Agua Jaén, S.A.), a provincial commercial entity constituted by the Provincial Council of Jaén and the company Acciona Agua. Most of it is supplied from the Las Copas DWTP, a plant that is supplied from three different catchments, Aguascebas reservoir, Guadalquivir-Mogón catchment and Guadalquivir-Santo Tomé catchment. The water that the Fuente del Roble DWTP supplies to the districts of Solana de Torralba and Veracruz&action=edit&redlink=1 "Veracruz (Úbeda) (not yet written)" also comes from the Aguascebas reservoir.

In addition, there is the municipality's own catchment, the San Bartolomé master well, which provides around 15% of the water consumed.

There are several accumulation tanks, with a total capacity of 18,780 m³, the three main ones being Atalaya, with 6,600 m³, Madre de Dios, with 10,000 m³, and Polígono, with 1,000 m³. Other smaller ones of the order of 100 m³ capacity are those that supply each of the districts of the city. The distribution network consists of about 170 km in total length.

As for rates, it is approximately 1.5 euros/m³, of which sanitation accounts for 36% and the rest for supply. Furthermore, in accordance with the provisions of the Junta de Andalucía, the concept of the Autonomous Canon for Sanitation and Purification Infrastructures is included in the periodic receipt.

The municipal wastewater is channeled through the municipal sanitation network to its end points where it is discharged directly into a public channel.

At present—February 2017—the Úbeda wastewater treatment plant is completed but has not yet been put into operation, so hardly any treatment of this water is carried out, with the exception of a tiny percentage in three small treatment plants in three scattered centers of the municipality, the Solana de Torralba, El Donadío and Veracruz WWTPs.[40]​ It is expected that it will come into operation in 2017. operation of the Úbeda WWTP, solving the current problems of discharging the population's sewage.

The main nucleus of Úbeda has a transformer substation in Huertañalda, which guarantees its own electrical demands and which in turn supplies nearby nuclei such as Baeza and Torreperogil, among others. Two overhead power lines arrive at this substation from the swamps of El Tranco, Doña Aldonza), and a third from the Linares substation.

In addition, there are two secondary or auxiliary substations, located on the El Mármol highway "El Mármol (Jaén)") and in the Doña Aldonza reservoir.

Waste and garbage management

Úbeda is included in the La Loma Consortium,[41] formed by 18 municipalities with a population of 97,810 inhabitants and a production of 32,998 t/year of waste. This consortium has a transfer station in Úbeda.

In Úbeda, waste generation has remained stable in recent years, with values ​​that varied in the years 2000 between 9,808 and 12,883 tons per year, with respect to the waste generated in the gray container. This generation in Úbeda represents only 26% of the waste generated in the consortium to which it belongs and 4.17% of the waste generated in the province and shows a generation rate of 0.82 kg per inhabitant per day, clearly lower than the provincial average which is 1.3 kg per inhabitant per day.

The management of garbage collection, street cleaning and garden care is the responsibility of the Municipal Company for Environmental Sustainable Development of Úbeda (Emdesau).

The Úbeda clean point located in the Los Cerros industrial estate is an infrastructure that has the capacity to manage the urban solid waste of a population of 50,000 inhabitants, which can be used by both residents of the town of Ubeda and the surrounding municipalities.[42]​.

It is equipped to receive and treat 23 different types of waste, including wood and furniture, debris, appliances, used oils, photography and radiography material, electrical and electronic material, paints and solvents and other materials such as glass, paper and cardboard, packaging and textiles.[42]​.

Cemeteries

The city has two funeral homes and a cemetery. The San Ginés cemetery&action=edit&redlink=1 "San Ginés Cemetery (Úbeda) (not yet written)") is located north of the city, and of the four that were built in Úbeda it is the only one that is preserved and active. It dates from 1837, although it was in 1852 - a date that appears on the "Gate (gate)" gate of its main door - when it was completely completed and the first patio and later its chapel were built.[43]​.

Health

Historically, the Hospital of Santiago "Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda)") —current cultural center— was the health center of the city for 400 years until in 1975 the Hospital San Juan de la Cruz was inaugurated, a public center classified as a regional hospital, which covers specialized medical care in the northern health area of Jaén") —regions of La Loma "La Loma (Jaén)"), Las Villas "Las Villas (Jaén)"), Sierra Mágina, Sierra of Cazorla and Sierra de Segura—and which is managed by the Andalusian Health Service (SAS) of the Junta de Andalucía.[44]​[45]​.

The health network in the municipality is complemented by the Úbeda health center —Ambulatorio Virgen del Gavellar—, the Úbeda Este health center and the auxiliary clinics in the districts of El Donadío, Santa Eulalia, Solana de Torralba and Veracruz.[46]​ In addition, the city has a Red Cross center.

Citizen security

Security in Úbeda is made up of a Civil Guard post[47]​—located in the old Guards Academy—, a National Police Corps station, a local police station), a fire station and civil protection.

As in the rest of the European Union, in Úbeda the emergency system 112 "112 (telephone)") is operational, a unique and free telephone number for assistance to citizens in an emergency situation - health, fire fighting and rescue or citizen security.

Transport

Úbeda will soon become an important communications hub at the Andalusian level as the intersection of two future highways will take place there, regaining its pre-eminence as a logistics center in the province:

• - From the north: A-32/N-322 Andrés de Vandelvira Highway (Bailén-Linares-Úbeda–Albacete), future A-32 Highway (Bailén-Albacete Highway), in service the section from Torreperogil to Bailén where it connects with the A-44 Sierra Nevada-Costa Tropical Highway.

• - From the north: A-301 (La Carolina-Úbeda) Highway from La Carolina to Úbeda, connects with the A-4 Autovía del Sur in La Carolina.

• - From the west: A-316 (Úbeda-Estepa) Autovía del Olivar, or Andalusian intermediate axis, in service from Úbeda to Martos but the section that goes from Martos to Alcaudete is still under construction.

• - From the south: A-401 Carretera de Úbeda a Moreda, (La Carolina–Jódar–Moreda), connects with the A-92 in Darro through the A-308.

The first purpose of the Úbeda bus station building was to become a station for the La Loma Electric Railway with the help of FEVE, but it was not used when the tram project was dismantled - when the renewal of the route and infrastructure was already completed - and it was adapted as a bus station and inaugurated in 1974. It is located within the urban core, being a regular stop on regional and national lines.

The urban bus service in Úbeda has had intermittent periods. It dates back to 1970 when the City Council authorized Marcelino Muñoz Herreros to launch the first urban bus service, with two lines within the urban area with a ticket price of two pesetas.[52]​.

In 1993, the company Grúas Ruiz took over management.[53] After twenty years of service, the urban bus service ceased on July 31, 2013, when the subsidy of 200,000 euros that Grúas Ruiz received from the city council as compensation to make ticket prices affordable was eliminated. Since there was no agreement between both parties, the concession was not renewed.[54]​ The city council decided to suppress the service as it was not obliged to provide that service, however, social and opposition pressure forced the service to be reestablished, awarding the concession to the Úbeda-Bus company and entering service on August 16 of that same year,[55]​ bearing all operating expenses except for canopies.[56]​ After intermittent stoppages of the service. service[57]​ ceases its activity in 2016.

In January 2017, the provision of the service was granted to the company Bus Madrid Almería (BUSBAM),[58]​[59]​ which resumed the bus service on April 10, 2017.[60]​.

The city has frequent regular services with neighboring towns in the region, the province and the Linares-Baeza Station. Úbeda does not belong to the Jaén Area Metropolitan Transport Consortium, although it has requested its inclusion in the consortium.[62] Currently there is a consortium line originating and ending in Úbeda, but only the route between Mancha Real and Jaén applies to the consortium.

Úbeda ha ejercido y es conocida por ello, la capitalidad cultural "Capital cultural (sociología)") de la comarca e incluso de la provincia en diversos ámbitos.

También como punto de encuentro del pensamiento, las instituciones educativas y artísticas, pero también como foco de difusión de la cultura teatral, festivales de música, exposiciones, conciertos multitudinarios, concursos de artes, congresos, ferias comerciales, eventos de todo tipo.

El Hospital de Santiago, como centro cultural, es el polo de atracción de toda la variada programación cultural y expositiva que ofrece la ciudad.

Algunos de los eventos más recientes que se podrían citar son el Festival de Música y Danza, el Ciclo de Música de Cámara, Festival Internacional de Música de Cine, Festival de Cuentos y Literatura de Úbeda, Festival de Música Antigua de Úbeda y Baeza, Festival de Jazz de Úbeda-Baeza, Muestra de Teatro de Otoño, Maratón de Teatro Ciudad de Úbeda, Maranatha, Festival flamenco Activo, Fiestas del Renacimiento, Jornadas de Astronomía y Astrofísica de Úbeda y Festival de música, animación y videojuegos Play-fest.

Como escenario cinematográfico, se han rodado multitud de escenas, series y películas, destacándose: Alatriste, La conjura del Escorial, El hombre que supo amar, Sonata de primavera, o la serie de televisión El pícaro.

Easter week

Holy Week in Úbeda is one of the most popular religious festivals in Andalusia, having been declared a Festival of Tourist Interest since 1980[75]​ and of National Tourist Interest in Andalusia since 1997.[76]​[77]​ From Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, 19 brotherhoods take to the streets. Holy Week in Ubeta highlights respect for the chronological order of the passion, death and resurrection of Christ.[78]​.

• - Palm Sunday begins with “el Santo Borriquillo” which stages the entry of Jesus into Jerusalem.[79]​.

• - On Holy Monday the «Our Lady of Grace»[80]​ and the «Brotherhood of Costaleros "Brotherhood of Costaleros of the Holy Christ of the Passion (Úbeda)") procession».[81]​.

• - On Holy Tuesday "the Virgin of Tears"[82]​ and the via crucis of silence of "the Dark Night".[83]​.

• - On Holy Wednesday night the sculptural group of "the Holy Supper"[84]​ and "Prendimiento".[85]​ comes out.

• - On Holy Thursday in the morning the «Christ of Prayer in the Garden» comes out;[86]​ and in the afternoon «the Column "Brotherhood of Our Lord in the Column (Úbeda)")»[87]​ and «the Humility»[88]​ —with the most spectacular band of Romans in all of Spain— process; At night it is done by "the Good Death"[89]​ and "the Sentence".[90]​.

• - The most emotional moments occur on Good Friday, with the early morning departure of «Jesús "Brotherhood of Jesús Nazareno de Úbeda (Jaén)")» with the playing of the miserere being accompanied by many faithful,[91]​ and late in the morning «la Caída "Brotherhood of Nuestro Padre Jesús de la Cáída y María Santísima de la Amargura (Úbeda)")»;[92]​ at noon «la Expiration"[93]​ and "las Angustias";[94]​ in the afternoon the climb of "la Soledad" up the Cuesta de la Merced stands out.[95]​ At night, 11 brotherhoods, 20 steps and more than 4,000 penitents process in chronological order - from Palm Sunday to Good Friday - in the Great General Procession.[96]​ Closed on Good Friday "the Holy Burial"[97]​ which also ends up joining the General Procession in front of "la Soledad".

• - On Holy Saturday there is no procession out of respect, as it is a day of mourning.[98]​.

• - On Easter Sunday and around noon, “the Risen One”[99] processions, accompanied by representatives of the rest of the brotherhoods and brotherhoods with their respective tunics; thus closing the week of Ubetense passion.

Gastronomy

Ubetense cuisine is basically Mediterranean, with La Mancha and Levantine influences, based on its Andalusian roots, with an abundance of legumes, cereals, game meat and, of course, olive oil and olives—table, green, black or the ergot variety. Some notable products are the migas, the hochío[100]​—a cake of extra virgin olive oil sprinkled with paprika. Also very typical are the pickled partridge, the buñuelos—churros—, fried in the extra virgin oil of the area, and desserts such as the Holy Week hornazo—an oil cake with matalauva and a hard-boiled egg in the center—or the papajotes").

Other traditional dishes worth highlighting are the broad bean stew with eggplant, the chickpea stew with chard, the chickpeas mareaos or morrococo, the andrajos with cod or hare, the ajilimoje, Pipirrana—cooked potato, raw tomato, onion, paprika and olive oil, garnished with a “cod skin”—and the vigil dumplings.

The products from the pig slaughter also stand out: chorizos in oil, loin in marinade, loin of orza, black pudding in a boiler with hochíos[101]​ and broad beans with hochíos.

As for pastries and sweets, it is worth mentioning, in addition to the ochios and hornazos, the borrachuelos, the Candelaria cakes, the roscos de Jesús, the sweet porridge with tostones of all the saints,[102]​ the delicious papajotes"), the croutons") and various toasts. A very popular variety of sangria "Sangría (drink)") is also made with peach, called cuerva "Cuerva (drink)").

Restaurants are proliferating throughout the city, specializing in rescuing recipes from popular knowledge and the culture of olive oil.

Bars and cantinas are the traditional meeting point of Ubetenses. In September it is possible to attend the now traditional Tapa Fair. In addition, Úbeda has its own tapas offering adapted to local cuisine: based on hochíos, blood sausage, picadillo, andrajos, local sausage, all prepared with exquisite olive oil.

There are several areas in Úbeda where there is a concentration of bars where you can taste tapas. The first of them is located in the vicinity of the Hospital of Santiago "Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda)"), on Avenida de la Constitución and Cronista Pasquau street, also known as "the corner of the bars"; The second area is located along Real Street, which serves as a connection between the monumental city and the modern city; and finally, in recent years, different bars have opened where people go mainly in summer, in the Redonda de Miradores, a magnificent balcony overlooking the Guadalquivir valley, with incredible views of the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas natural park and the Sierra Mágina natural park.

Renaissance cuisine also has its prominent place. The city celebrates its Renaissance Gastronomic Days between the months of January and March in emblematic restaurants, dinners or lunches, sometimes accompanied by shows.

Craft

Úbeda has been famous for its industry and crafts since the time of Al-Andalus, as well as for manufacturing products such as ubedíes - esparto mats "Esparto (fiber)") woven and embroidered by hand -, or various pottery, forging, ceramics, cloths, woven "Tissue (textile)") and tanning objects whose tradition is maintained to this day. Both industries, esparto grass and pottery, were of capital importance in the Ubetense economy.

With one of the largest concentrations of artisan workshops in Spain, local artisans work to keep alive the best traditions of the past: pottery, wood, esparto, wicker, palm, stone workshop, forging, tanning, stained glass, etc.

traditional dance

Ubetense folklore is very similar to that of the rest of the province of Jaén, that is, a fusion of Castilian and Andalusian dances with a characteristic and marked Levantine air. They are simple and calm dances that began to take shape at the beginning of the century in the cities and countryside of Jaén. Among them, apart from jotas and fandangos "Fandango (dance)"), the bolero stands out. The sung lyric, so typical of the Renaissance, also enjoyed a formidable boom throughout the entire region of Úbeda.

The typical dance of Úbeda is, specifically, the bolero of Úbeda. This dance was usually performed at the city's popular festivals in which people participated wearing regional costume.

Typical costume

The Ubetense regional costume was standardized in 1925 at the request of the Marchioness of La Rambla, who had the most common clothing used in the city's festivals during the previous century studied and selected. In this way, the typical costume that the women and men of Úbeda would wear was created.[103]​.

The woman's costume is the most characteristic, highlighting a colorful embroidered sash covered with a black skirt, the palloleta, also made of embroidered cloth that crosses the chest, as well as a silk shawl.

The men's uniform is very similar to that of the rest of the Jaén municipalities, the most characteristic element being the use of the typical Calañés, open jacket and printed vest.

Currently, the rich Ubetense folklore does not enjoy the support and appreciation that it had in the past, and the use of regional costume has been relegated to the bridesmaids of the pilgrimage of the Virgin of Guadalupe "Virgen de Guadalupe (Úbeda)").[104]​ It is also used by the Parador de Úbeda service as a tourist attraction.[105]​.

Language

The dialect variant most used in Úbeda is called ubedí,[106]​ a mixture of the La Mancha and Andalusian dialect, whose most characteristic and popular word is, possibly «inchi», which means "look" or "go" depending on the context, or also the famous expression «ea» that can be used to affirm something.

Festivities and events

• - January to March: Gastronomic Days in the Renaissance, try to show the art of good eating through participating restaurants that serve menus that include starters, first and second courses, as well as desserts and traditional drinks of Renaissance cuisine, with numerous original recipes from the centuries and .[107]​.

• - January 16: Bonfires of San Antón, "las lumbres" are celebrated on the eve of the day of San Antonio Abad. In the past it was done by burning old furniture and using matalaúva cigarettes. Currently, bonfires are made in various neighborhoods, it is typical to roast sardines, and on the pyre in the Primero de Mayo square, to jump over the embers.[108]​.

• - February 2: Candlemas Festival. Candelaria cakes are created, sweet bread and oil with a circular and flattened shape that are tasted in the city on the occasion of the festival.

• - February to March: Carnival, a festival in which many citizens dress up and sing their coplillas to Úbeda at the street carnival. A competition is held for groups with a clear Cádiz influence with various modalities: choirs—for the first time in 2007—, comparsas, chirigotas, quartets. His parade and the burial of the sardine the following week also stand out.[109]​.

• - February - March. Linked to agricultural tradition, the «Butifuera» is a celebration in which the olive growers participate at the end of the olive harvest, and in which the owner of the olives organizes a picnic.

• - March: Úbeda Artistic Days, in which the city experiences different activities of great importance around the watercolor technique: International Exhibition of Watercolor Artists, Art Market or the prestigious International Outdoor Painting Contest 'Úbeda World Heritage Site'.

• - March - April: Úbeda Zombie Experience is one of the most important real games in Andalusia. A survival game in the historic center of Úbeda in which the survivors must escape during the night from the zombies, reaching more than 400 participants from all over the country to enjoy a different weekend.[110]​.

• - March - April: Holy Week in Úbeda, from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, with 19 brotherhoods and brotherhoods participating in it.

• - April to May: Contest/Contest 'Flamencos Mestizos', a series created at the initiative of the singer, composer and music producer Paco Ortega that takes up the baton of the old 'Ámonos pal flamenco Festival, to offer a window to the youngest or most innovative emerging projects that are fighting to appear in the current flamenco panorama. Pure flamenco, of those that have collected the values ​​of tradition and flamenco that looks at the miscegenation, the exchange of race and cultures.

• - May 1: the Pilgrimage of the Virgin of Guadalupe "Virgen de Guadalupe (Úbeda)"), patron saint of Úbeda,[111]​ is celebrated, moving from her Sanctuary of Gavellar"), to the village of Santa Eulalia "Santa Eulalia (Jaén)") — in local dialect— where various events are celebrated, and from there to Úbeda, where during the summer He will worship him in his chapel in the Basilica of Santa María de los Reales Alcázares. It is known as the "Large Pilgrimage."

Museums

• - Mudéjar House-Archaeological Museum of Úbeda.[121]​.

• - Paco Tito Pottery Museum Memoria de lo Tidiano[122]​ (Registered in the Andalusian Registry of Museums).

• - Museum of San Juan de la Cruz.

Media

The main provincial newspapers —Ideal "Ideal (newspaper)") and Diario Jaén— have correspondents in Úbeda, which also publish free local versions of their newspapers monthly. At the regional level, Úbeda-Baeza Comarcal is also published. All of them with a daily presence on the Internet.

The main national and regional radio stations are received in Úbeda. At the local level it has Radio Úbeda") —associated with Cadena SER—, and the music radio stations Los 40 Úbeda "LOS40 (España)") ​​and M80 Renacimiento.[123]​ which does not yet transmit but will do so soon.

As for television, Úbeda is the head of the local digital terrestrial television demarcation (TL06J), with two regional television stations that broadcast in the La Loma region, Diez TV —from Úbeda— and 9laLoma") —from Baeza—.

Sport

Úbeda had a soccer team that regularly played in Group IX of the Third Division, the Úbeda Club de Fútbol, ​​until in the 2005-2006 season "Annex: Third Division of Spain 2005-06 / Group IX (Eastern Andalusia and Melilla)") it was relegated to the Andalusian First Division due to the club's financial problems. The second team in Úbeda was the Club Deportivo Úbeda Viva"), which has gone from being the green subsidiary to being the first team in the city, after the Úbeda Football Club disappeared. The Club Deportivo Úbeda Viva") currently plays in the Andalusian First Division.

The most popular sport is football, with different local association and amateur leagues. There are also different amateur futsal teams and other grassroots sports.

Other sports with great fans in Úbeda are paddle tennis, of which some international open and several no less important tournaments have already been held, and chess, with the Santa Juana de Arc Chess Club existing.

Úbeda also has several athletics clubs, using the infrastructure of the Antonio Cruz Sánchez municipal sports complex. Since the reform of the athletics tracks, Úbeda has hosted major athletics events and championships at the regional and national level.[124]​.

It is also necessary to point out the great interest in rugby in recent years, an interest reflected in the birth in 2010 of the Úbeda Atlantes Rugby Club), which plays in the provincial league and actively participates in the training of youth players for Jaén Rugby, a club that in turn has contributed experience and resources to the local team. The controversy that has arisen around this sport is also notable, mainly due to the lack of a training field in the city and the constant denial of the Úbeda Viva Sports Club") to achieve a definitive solution to the conflict.[125]​[126]​.

The strong love of cycling in the city, and with the support of associations and clubs, activities, marches, tests and cycling meetings are periodically organized.

Another notable sporting hobby is the breeding of the Jaén pouter, where it has the Los Cerros de Úbeda Pigeon Farming Association whose members compete in various competitions at the provincial and regional level, obtaining important prizes. In March 2016, the twenty-sixth edition of the National Breed Pigeon Championship was held in Úbeda.[127]​.

In terms of infrastructure, at the moment, the city has great shortcomings. For example, it lacks a complete sports city. Of the municipal sports facilities, the most important within the San Miguel Municipal Stadium is the Antonio Cruz Sánchez municipal sports complex, where the training and matches of the Úbeda Viva Sports Club take place. It has an artificial grass field for 11-a-side soccer, a natural grass field for 11-a-side soccer, an artificial grass field for indoor soccer, a paddle tennis court, an athletics track, a beach volleyball court, two bike trial circuits "Trial". (cycling)"), a long jump pit and a gym. In addition to changing rooms, showers, offices, sports schools, etc.[128]​[129]​ The El Viejo municipal sports complex has a sports pavilion and several attached outdoor courts for tennis, paddle tennis, basketball, a sports center and a skating rink. In addition, the facility has a municipal swimming pool with garden areas and recess.[129]​[130]​.

Municipal government

The municipal administration is carried out by the Úbeda City Council, the institution that governs the municipality and whose members are elected every four years by universal suffrage since the first municipal elections after the restoration of democracy in Spain, in 1979. The Úbeda town council has 21 councilors, according to the provisions of the organic law of the General Electoral Regime,[132]​ which establishes the number of eligible councilors based on the population of the municipality. The electoral roll is made up of residents over 18 years of age registered in the municipality, whether they are of Spanish nationality or from any member country of the European Union.

Territorial organization

The city is made up of different neighborhoods or neighborhoods, some official and others popularly divided. The ancients have their roots in the old collations: San Pedro, San Pablo, San Nicolás, San Lorenzo, Santo Tomás, la Trinidad, San Isidoro, Santo Domingo, San Marcos, the Cuesta del Gallo, and the medieval neighborhood of El Alcázar or the neighborhood of Carmen. The most popular Ubetense neighborhood is San Millán—or Algarabía neighborhood—which has always been an almost independent suburb outside the walls, residence of the Mozarabic and later Mudejar nuclei.

The most modern neighborhoods are: Las Canteras, Puerta del Sol, La Alameda, El Alamillo, la Guita, La Explanada, San Pedro (new), Torrenueva, El León, El Egido de San Marcos, El Comendador—or Ávilas Rojas—, Atalaya and Parque Norte, and the neighborhoods of Las Vaguadas, and Federico García Lorca.

In addition to the city of Úbeda, the municipality of Ubeda is home to almost 1,000 inhabitants residing in other areas, such as the districts of Santa Eulalia "Santa Eulalia (Jaén)") —known as Santolaya—, Solana de Torralba, Veracruz&action=edit&redlink=1 "Veracruz (Úbeda) (not yet written)"), San Miguel "San Miguel (Úbeda)") and The Donadío.

The urbanizations of the municipality constitute neighborhood groups located at a relative distance from the urban center of Úbeda. These are usually residential chalets. The main ones are:

• - Bétula Urbanization: located one kilometer west of the urban area, its main access is the N-322 highway.

• - San Bartolomé "San Bartolomé (Úbeda)"): located a few kilometers east of the urban area, in the direction of Torreperogil, its access is via the N-322 highway.

• - El Campillo: to the east on the N-322, in front of San Bartolomé "San Bartolomé (Úbeda)"), in the direction of Torreperogil.

• - Huertañalda: north of the urban area on the JV-6043").

• - Ubedi.

• - Wikimedia Commons hosts a multimedia category on Úbeda.

• - Wikiviajes hosts travel guides to or about Úbeda.

• - Úbeda on OpenStreetMap.

• - Úbeda on Wikimapia.

• - Úbeda City Council.

• - Cultural heritage of Úbeda in the Digital Guide to the Cultural Heritage of Andalusia. Andalusian Institute of Historical Heritage.

• - Renaissance Monumental Complex of Úbeda and Baeza.

• - Article about María de Molina by Manuel Almagro Chinchilla. Archived September 25, 2019 at the Wayback Machine.

Shield

In a field of gules, a royal crown of gold and twelve rampant lions in gules on a silver border. On the bell, closed royal crown.[4]​[5]​ The shield was granted by Henry III of Castile on August 12, 1369 and in it reference is made by the twelve lions to the Ubetense knights present in front of the walls of Algeciras during the siege established "Sitio of Algeciras (1342-1344)") between 1342 and 1344 by Alfonso XI.[6]​.

Flag

As it appears in the Official Gazette of the Junta de Andalucía,[5]​ the flag of Úbeda consists of: «*Rectangular cloth, with a proportion between width and length of 3 to 5 m, in maroon color with the city's shield centered vertically and displaced horizontally at a distance from the sheath equivalent to 2/3 of the width of the flag. The size of the shield will be equivalent to two-fifths of the width of the cloth.

Hymn

The anthem of Úbeda was declared the official anthem of the city by the plenary session of the city council on May 14, 1982. The lyrics were written by Antonio Parra Cabrera, while the music was composed by maestro Emilio Sánchez Plaza.

Contenido

Úbeda está enclavada sobre una eminencia "Eminencia (topografía)") en la famosa comarca de La Loma "La Loma (Jaén)"), volcada hacia el valle del Guadalquivir, frente a la imponente Sierra Mágina y cerca del centro geográfico de la provincia de Jaén.

Municipality

The municipal area of ​​Úbeda is mostly dedicated to agriculture, especially olive groves, the most productive in the world. Until the seventies of the century, olive cultivation was important but it was alternated with others such as cereals or vines, but since then a sea of ​​olive trees has flooded the Úbeda hill. In the plains of the Guadalquivir and Guadalimar, intensive irrigated agriculture still predominates (cotton, onion, tobacco, beets, etc.).

The municipal area is divided into three separate parts, a main island and two exclaves.

The island of Úbeda or main municipal island, is located practically in the center of the province, limited by the municipalities of Baeza, Rus "Rus (Jaén)"), Arquillos, Vilches "Vilches (Spain)"), Navas de San Juan, Torreperogil, Sabiote, Villacarrillo, Peal de Becerro, Quesada "Quesada (Jaén)"), Cazorla, Santo Tomé "Santo Tomé (Jaén)"), Jódar, Cabra del Santo Cristo and Jimena "Jimena (Jaén)"). It includes the city of Úbeda, and its annexes Santa Eulalia "Santa Eulalia (Jaén)"), Guadalupe, El Donadío, San Miguel "San Miguel (Úbeda)") and San Bartolomé "San Bartolomé (Úbeda)").

Rincón de Úbeda is located on the north bank of the Guadalquivir River, limited by the municipalities of Torreperogil, Sabiote, Villacarrillo, Santo Tomé "Santo Tomé (Jaén)") and Cazorla. In this exclave are the annexes of Veracruz and Solana de Torralba.

Rincón de Olvera is located on the north bank of the Guadalimar River, between the municipalities of Navas de San Juan and Sabiote. Although there was a fortress and village in this exclave, it is not made up of any current population center.

In addition to the main nucleus, the municipality includes six other population centers, annexes in which a little more than 1,000 inhabitants reside in total. By size they are:

1. • Santa Eulalia "Santa Eulalia (Jaén)") (Santolaya).

2. • El Donadio.

3. • Solana de Torralba.

4. • Veracruz&action=edit&redlink=1 "Veracruz (Úbeda) (not yet written)").

5. • San Miguel "San Miguel (Úbeda)").

6. • San Bartolomé "San Bartolomé (Úbeda)").

Other villages completely unpopulated before the century are the town of Olvera,[7] Torre de San Juan —where the hermitage of San Juan Bautista existed— and Villarpardillo.

Hydrography

Four rivers irrigate the lands of Ubeta: Guadalquivir, Guadalimar, Guadiana Menor and Jandulilla, but none of them bathe the city. Also in its territory are the Giribaile, Doña Aldonza, Pedro Marín and Puente de la Cerrada reservoirs.

Climate

According to the Köppen climate classification, Úbeda has a Csa climate (Mediterranean climate). Climatologically, the winters are mild and the summers hot and dry.

Dehesas

The Cañada Real de El Paso is located to the east of the municipality and is an area of ​​pasture that served as a passage for the Mesta, and is currently a peri-urban park and recreational area. A few kilometers away is Mount Palomarejo, next to the Villarejo stream.

La Dehesa de la Torrecilla and Dehesa del Moro are located to the north. Searching the foothills of Sierra Morena, they come to light in areas where agriculture has not yet been able to reach, beautiful areas of native vegetation, gall oaks, holm oaks and cork oaks. In this area is the so-called "mar de la loma", an immense lake formed by the Giribaile reservoir.

Protected areas

In the municipality there are also areas declared a natural and special protection area (SPA), such as the Alto Guadalquivir Natural Area to the south of the municipality: the Doña Aldonza, Pedro Marín and Puente de la Cerrada reservoirs (Puente la Cerrá, in local speech). These reservoirs are heavily clogged, which is why a large amount of lake vegetation has reemerged, and in them you can find diverse fauna such as the common coot, ducks, flamingos or the swarm, with its bright blue plumage.

Origin

Legend says that Úbeda was founded by Tubal, a descendant of Noah. The name of the city would derive from the mythical tower of King Ibiut.

If we restrict ourselves to archaeology, the first settlements in Úbeda date back to the Copper Age, on the current Alcázar hill. In fact, the latest archaeological research has shown it to be six thousand years old; Úbeda is the “oldest city—scientifically documented—in Western Europe.” This is stated by the team led by Professor Francisco Nocete in light of the results of 35 Carbon-14 datings at the Eras del Alcázar site.[8]​[9]​.

There are Chalcolithic, Argaric, Oretani, Visigoth and late Roman remains in the current site where it sits. At the same time, there was previously an important oppidum Iberian population, called Iltiraka in the Iberian language, and later dependent on the Roman colony of Salaria, it is known as Úbeda la Vieja - or Ubeda Vethula -, being located in front of the mouth of the Jandulilla River in the Guadalquivir. In search of exchanges, the Greeks and later the Carthaginians arrived in Úbeda with imperialist purposes, being defeated by the Romans after long wars.

Under the Roman Empire, starting from the Battle of Ilipa in , the ancient Iberian city-state was romanized "Romanization (acculturation)"), and would be known as Betula —Baetula—, being the center of a large scattered population. In Gothic times, the vandals destroyed the entire region and its inhabitants began to concentrate on the site we know today, called Bétula Nova, for reasons that are largely unknown.

The city as an entity with a certain importance reappears with the arrival of the Arabs, in particular with Abd al-Rahman II, who refounded it with the name of Ubbada or Ubbadat Al-Arab —Úbeda "of the Arabs"—, with the intention of controlling the rebellious Mozarabs of Baeza from here. In the century it was the subject of dispute between the taifa kingdoms of Almería, Granada, Toledo and Seville, until its conquest by the Almoravids. As a Muslim city, it was surrounded by more defensive walls and became one of the most important cities in Al-Andalus, due to its crafts and trade. Thus it became a rich and important bastion to possess.

Middle Ages

During the year 1091, the king of Toledo, Al-Mamún, fought against the internal rebellion of the Andalusian Moors, with Úbeda surrendered by force at the hands of Alfonso VI. Starting in the century, the Castilian kings progressively increased the pressure on the Alto Guadalquivir and Úbeda was only mentioned in written sources as the scene of war episodes, for example when the region was the target of attacks by Alfonso VII of León, first in 1137 and later in 1147, at which time he seized Úbeda, Baeza and Almería. For ten years the city remained in the hands of the Castilians, until the Almohad counteroffensive forced them to withdraw in 1157. Reconquered and devastated by Alfonso VIII after the battle of Las Navas de Tolosa and the battle of Úbeda, it was lost shortly after. Meanwhile, the city was sacked and razed to the ground on several more occasions, with its population definitively massacred by the crusaders in the battle of 1212.

In the year 1233, Úbeda was definitively conquered by Ferdinand III of Castile after a six-month long siege, becoming a royal city and holder of an archpriestship:

A notable fact is that the taking of Úbeda was carried out through capitulation, avoiding a new massacre and enabling the coexistence of different ethnic groups that formed a population of various cultures (Arab, Jewish and Christian). For more than two centuries the city actively participated in the fight against the Muslims, enjoying broad autonomy in its local government, governed by the Council "Council (history)") supported by the twenty-four.

Decisive factor in this period is its important geostrategic value. For almost three centuries it was a border town, first outpost and then very close to the border between the kingdoms of Granada and Castile. This fact determines that the successive Castilian kings grant numerous privileges and concessions, such as the Fuero de Cuenca, to favor the establishment of a population, made up of Castilians and Navarrese-Aragonese, that remains in the face of adverse life circumstances typical of a border area. Thus it became one of the four "major cities of the reconquest of Andalusia."

Episodes such as that of 1368, in which the city is devastated due to the civil war between Pedro I of Castile and Enrique II of Trastámara, and the subsequent sacking of Pero Gil and the armies of Muhammed V of Granada fueled the rivalry between the local factions, Traperas against Arandas first, then Cuevas "Cueva (surname)") against Molinas "Molina (surname)") and Moyas "Moya (surname)") against Padillas "Padilla (surname)"), stained its history with blood until the end of the century. In fact, they led to the fact that, similar to what happened in Baeza, the walls and towers of the fortress were demolished in 1506 by royal order, in order to establish peace between these sides.

The province of Úbeda's jurisdiction extended from Torres de Acun (Granada) to Santisteban del Puerto, passing through Albanchez de Úbeda, Huesa and Canena, and in the middle of the century it also included in its jurisdictional district the towns of Cabra del Santo Cristo, Jimena "Jimena (Jaén)"), Quesada "Quesada (Jaén)"), Peal, Sabiote and Torreperogil.

Splendor

This accumulation of factors - geographical location and consequent control of communication routes, its extensive and rich jurisdiction, great alfoz "Alfoz (urbanism)") and presence of an increasingly powerful nobility - laid the foundations over the centuries for the splendor of the Úbeda of the century. At the end of the conquest of Granada, we witnessed an economic development of the city based on agriculture and an important horse ranch and its own ranch, which founded the period of greatest splendor of the city, being very important the clearing of forests and the enhancement of new lands. Peace and economic development brings with it a demographic increase, with the city reaching a population of 18,000 inhabitants, being one of the most populous in all of Spain. Starting with Ruy López Dávalos, Constable of Castile under Enrique III and Beltrán de la Cueva, valet of Enrique IV, his nobles found accommodation in high positions in the imperial administration.

After the Ubetense nobility, and the orders of chivalry, the next great privileged class is the clergy. The diocese of Jaén is enormously rich, its miter "Mitra (clothing)"), possibly, was one of the richest in Spain, and the Ubetense clergy had high positions in it. We also found a group of neighbors who have prospered—mostly Jews or Muladíes—and who generically would have been the germ of an incipient bourgeoisie. These are professionals, such as doctors, tailors, notaries, apothecaries and, naturally, a considerable number of rich merchants. Further down, there was a varied guild repertoire typical of a rich and expansive population nucleus, special mention to the guild of shepherds and ranchers. The army and the militia closed this large group. The third estate was a vast number of peasants from the lands of the nobles and small peasants.

Especially notable is the role of Francisco de los Cobos, secretary of Emperor Charles V. With him the taste for art enters Úbeda, and as if it were a small Italian court, at the hands of the architect Andrés de Vandelvira and his followers, Úbeda is filled with palaces. His nephew, Juan Vázquez de Molina, Secretary of State of Carlos I, and his son, Felipe II, continued what he had started. The humanist currents of the First Renaissance take strong root throughout Úbeda.

In 1526 Emperor Charles visited the city and swore to uphold the privileges, privileges and grants granted to Úbeda.

Slope

The centuries and years of decadence for the city, immersed in the general crisis of Spain, see its past splendor fading. The lack of a protectionist policy for crafts, imports of wool from Burgos, the rise in prices due to poor harvests, the unfair tax pressure for wars, corruption, the power of the Clergy, the inflationary process due to the abundance of metals, the continuous military levies, epidemics, and emigration to the Indies are some of the factors that contributed to this decline. Úbeda even lost control of the traffic of wood from the oaks and pines of the Segura, in favor of Sevillian merchants. All of this is decapitalizing the city, exacerbating social differences and increasing the misery of the majority. Some dates of the disasters that devastated the city at this stage were the plagues of 1585 and 1681 and the Lisbon earthquake of 1755, which destroyed many houses in the city. To top it off, the persecution of the new Christians and the expulsion of the Moors in 1609 will be seriously regretted by the Council, due to the economic impact of losing its most valuable economic fabric.

The stark decline became evident after 1700 with the long War of Succession. The residents of Úbeda will experience the War of Succession with increasing intensity. Their contributions in horses, weapons, ammunition, money or troops are continuous, making it sometimes difficult to understand where such forces come from in a people weakened by hunger and disease. Such was the tax pressure and injustice as the powerful classes were exempted, that the hungry population rioted on March 19, 1706, against the collectors of royal revenues. As a consequence of the war, Úbeda became extremely impoverished and conflict increased to unknown limits. The council had to sell its best properties to face urgent militia payments. There was undoubtedly a demographic recession, as the war coincided with crises of hunger and widespread disease. In these years, many towns in its territory became independent. It can be concluded that Úbeda suffered one of the worst moments in its history, only hitting rock bottom around 1735. But the damage in Úbeda and other places was done, and it was difficult to turn back the clock of History.

Later, with the Spanish War of Independence, during which the French remained between 1810 and 1813 in the city, the recovery was truncated, the hardships returned, looting and great economic damage were caused. The situation led Úbeda to a state of economic ruin, which had led it to extremes such as the absolute lack of livestock to work the fields, seeds to sow and even the most precise means for the population's subsistence.

The ecclesiastical confiscations of 1820 and 1836 would mean that all the convents in the city—with the exception of Santa Clara "Convento de Santa Clara (Úbeda)") and the Carmelites—were expropriated and sold at public auction. This would mean the total transformation of the city's urban spaces, changing the use of some of these buildings to house schools, barracks, prisons, etc. and, in the worst case scenario, their old buildings being demolished due to the threat of ruin. In short, the city recovered again until the end of the century; It is when it began to experience a small resurgence with the improvement in technical advances, which arrived late in the city, which continues to be a rural environment hardly affected by the industrial revolution and increasingly distant from the centers of power.

Recovery

They still had to suffer the effects of the Carlist wars and the successive liberal revolutions that convulsed the life of the city. The bases of liberalism in Úbeda are based on the predominance in politics of large landowners, and despotism and electoral distortions are established. At the end of the century the petite bourgeoisie with some Ubetan landowners revived activity in the city thanks to agriculture and industry. During the 1920s, regenerationist rhetoric, whose ambitious idea was to launch Úbeda into a new Renaissance, put into practice numerous reform and improvement projects in the city. In these years, education and basic services are extended. It was also at this time when work began on the Baeza-Utiel railway line, which would have brought the railway to Úbeda and would have provided an important railway connection with the Levant. The railway works, however, lasted for three decades and the line would finally be abandoned around 1964, when its construction was already well advanced.[11]​ Around this time, the activity of General Leopoldo Saro Marín was also very notable,[12]​ who, although not from Jaén, was related to the province and to Úbeda through family ties. In addition to the unborn railway, the influence of General Saro facilitated the construction of the municipal Library, the Parador de Turismo, the School of Arts and Crafts or the reconstruction of the Casa de las Torres.

Úbeda even had a daily newspaper published in the town, La Provincia "La Provincia (Úbeda)"), between 1921 and 1936.[13]​.

During the Civil War, violence, repression and political revenge plunged Úbeda into a long phase of depression. The city was not a war front, but it suffered the removal of prisoners from both sides. Thus, it began on the night of July 30 to 31, 1936, when the republican militias took out the political prisoners who, in number 47, were in the prison of Partido "Judicial Party (Spain)"), and murdered them. The postwar period is still remembered by contemporaries as "the years of hunger."

During the 60s and 70s, local industry had a strong rebound thanks to the development push, but it was insufficient to absorb the strong increase in population, driven by emigration. Slowly, what was «the Florence of Alta Andalusia», will reach its current place as a provincial reference, head of the "La Loma (Jaén)" region and as a center of industry and services at a regional level of growing importance.

On July 3, 2003, it was named, along with its neighbor Baeza, a World Heritage Site.[1]​.

Chronology and historical curiosities

• - 1091: Alfonso VI consummates his disagreement with the Cid in Úbeda.

• - 1212: After the battle of Las Navas de Tolosa, also called Battle of Úbeda, the city is assaulted, looted and destroyed and practically the entire population, along with the refugees from Baeza, are put to the sword by the Christian troops. Two years later the Almohads recovered it.

• - 1233: Ferdinand III takes the city at the end of June 1233.

• - 1235: Fernando III grants Úbeda the Olvera Castle—the current enclave of the corner of Olvera.

• - 1275: The king grants him the castles of Tíscar. Huesa and Belerda "Belerda (Jaén)").

• - 1330: Popular mutiny against the nobility, whose leader, Juan Núñez Arquero, pays with the gallows.

• - 1342-1344: Site of Algeciras "Siege of Algeciras (1342-1344)") by the council of Úbeda. As a result of this conflict, the legend of the twelve lions that appear on the shield of Úbeda arises, symbolizing the 12 heroic knights who achieved its conquest.

• - 1368: The irruption of Pedro Gil devastated the city, destroying the temples and burning all the municipal, parish and notarial archives.

• - 1369: Henry II restored the title of city, granting it its current coat of arms, distinguishing it with the Motto of "Very Noble, Very Loyal and Ancient City, protection and exaltation of the Kingdoms of Castile".

• - 1396: The night of San Juan, battle between the Aranda and Trapera, near Puente Vieja—place of Úbeda la Vieja—. A century later the Cueva and Molina will continue this deadly rivalry.

• - 1489: Visit to Úbeda by the Catholic Monarchs. Legend has it that in front of the Puerta de Granada, Queen Isabel promised for the first time not to change her shirt until she expelled the Moors from her domain.

• - 1526: Emperor Charles solemnly visits the city and swears to uphold the privileges, privileges and grants granted to Úbeda.

• - 1530: The construction of cantilevered balconies was prohibited so as not to take away the sun and light from the streets.

• - 1562: Diego de Los Cobos") writes the Founding Statutes of the Hospital of Santiago "Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda)"), and the works begin.

• - 1591: Saint John of the Cross enters the city, where he dies on December 14.

• - 1845: Richard Ford "Richard Ford (Hispanist)") (1796-1858), the English traveler and Hispanist, collects in his Manual of travelers through Andalusia the monumental image of the city although he regrets the abandonment of agricultural lands; A reflection of this abandonment is his comment that the palace of Francisco de los Cobos still existed, although, yes, cruelly degraded.

Hills of Úbeda

The popular saying of leaving or "walking through the hills of Úbeda" has its origins in the reconquest of the Jaén city of Úbeda from the Almohads, which occurred in 1233.

It seems that one of the most important captains of King Ferdinand III "the Saint", Álvar Fáñez[note 1]​—alias "el Mozo"—disappeared moments before entering into combat and appeared in the city once it had been reconquered. When the king asked where he had been, the other, without hesitation, answered that he had gotten lost in the hills of Úbeda. The phrase was taken ironically by the courtiers, since the hills of Úbeda, although they are important, are not large enough to justify the soldiers going astray and it was perpetuated as a sign of cowardice.

Currently it is used when someone intervenes in a conversation with something that has nothing to do with what is being talked about. Another version of the same event says that Álvar Fáñez had fallen in love with a Moorish woman, and that is why he missed the attack, as he had an appointment at the same time with his lover.[15]​.

Úbeda cuenta con una población de (INE "Instituto Nacional de Estadística (España)") 2025).

Town planning

It is summarized by saying that, as in the Baeza complex, it is a Renaissance with its own identity. These cities provide an authentic compilation of the ideas, solutions and practices of Renaissance urbanism, formulated by the Italian writers of the 20th century, but adapting them to a cultural socio-political reality very different from the Italian one. Úbeda is "chair of the renaissance." The urban planning lesson offered by the city transcends the regional and national, being valued among the most innovative urban planning of the Spanish Renaissance which, after being reworked, will have a new projection in Latin America.

The urban planning of the city is configured in these main phases:

• - City-acropolis: Around the hill of Ibiut, currently the hill of the fortress, an Iberian oppidum was fortified that ended up constituting the matrix of the citadel of Úbeda.

• - Hispanic-Muslim heritage (1st century): the acropolis city expands the walled enclosure with its respective fortress on the edge of the natural cornice, medinas with minimally structured road networks along the axes that connect with the city gates.

• - Mudejar city (1st century): border territory with the Nasrid kingdom. The city continues to be heir, in its basic lines, of the Islamic structure: reinforcement of the walled enclosure and Christianization of the old mosques.

• - Renaissance city (century, Golden Age): the socioeconomic boom explains the unusual renovation carried out on the Mudejar city, the Renaissance reforms are juxtaposed to the medieval image and represent the construction of symbolic spaces directed by the civil powers. The structure of the city is consolidated and reaches its urban and architectural plenitude. The noble palaces and houses of Ubetense are built with Italian models and French notes - more than 250 have been cataloged - whose models continue until the 19th century, the beginning of the city's decline.

The greatest originality of Úbeda occurs in the internal restructuring operations carried out on the original Mudejar city:

• - Opening of Placetas: for new public or residential buildings of a certain entity.

• - Architecture focusing on visuals: in line with the aim of perspective and with the Renaissance theory of "closed street".

• - Corner solutions: towers and brilliant compositions developed on angled edges that contribute very effectively to the reclassification of the inherited Mudejar city.

• - An unprecedented urban operation in Spain, the Vázquez de Molina square: in addition to its extraordinary architectural quality, it represents an intervention that makes the urban organization more complex to represent the new precinct of power, the spatial and formal concretion of the political and economic aristocracy that was configured during the Renaissance period.

Over the centuries, the palace became the prototype of stately and institutional architecture, and stands out as the most significant element in the Ubetense fabric. The nobles compete in the majesty of their residences.

It has an area of ​​35.3 ha, making it one of the largest in Spain. Of them, the world heritage monumental complex occupies 2.8 hectares.

The Plaza de Andalucía: As such, it was opened in the year 1400, when the walled area that faced the San Isidoro collation was carved out. It housed the famous Toledo Gate.[17] It was known as "Plaza de Arriba", although it received its historical name from Toledo due to its proximity to the gate of the same name, the main gate of the city, framed by a large monumental arch of Toledo that was the beginning of the important Camino Real of the Imperial City. Emerging spontaneously at a crossroads around the door, it was demolished in the middle of the century. Bakers, butchers, fishmongers, gardeners and other merchants traded in its porches, as it was a food market until the current Coronada market was erected. In 1930, the sculpture complex of Ubetense's godson, General Saro, was installed, which is why for many years, until the current name, this square was known, and there are still many Ubetenses who call it that, as General Saro Square.

Around it, the historic city maintained a system of radial growth until the last century. From this old crossroads in the historic center, roads and highways start that link with neighboring towns and cities in the kingdom. This kilometer 0 of Ubeta is commonly called Plaza Vieja; or Plaza de Toledo, also Plaza de Arriba, Plaza del Arrabal, Plaza del Comercio, or Plaza del Reloj; or General Saro, or Andalusia, in their most recent names. More specifically, under the fresco of the image of the Virgin of Remedies, located in the clock tower, the place where Emperor Charles V swore the privileges and privileges of the city, the symbolic epicenter of Ubeta would be located. From this radiocentric nucleus the main arteries will emerge: to the west, with Obispo Cobos Street, towards the Hospital of Santiago "Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda)"); Trinidad Street to the north; Rastro Street, extension to Cava Street, to the south; Corredera de San Fernando street to the east and Real street that penetrates the intramuros historic center, to the southeast. The nerve center of the population would have moved outside the walls to this square forever, which even today has that character of vital center of the city and indisputable epicentric character.

• - Plaza de Andalucía.

• - Plaza de Andalucía with the Trinity Church in the background.

• - Porches in the Plaza de Andalucía.

Mesones and Obispo Cobos streets: A multitude of inns, taverns and inns were established on this axis, which were located on this busy road given its proximity to the populous Plaza de Andalucía, on the historic Camino Real de Toledo, Baeza and Jaén.

In the century after demolishing the Puerta Nueva, a wider promenade "Salón (urbanism)") was opened that would reach the Hospital of Santiago "Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda)") and that maintained the architectural schemes of the Renaissance: Obispo Cobos Street, popularly known as "Calle Nueva". Its extension was Paseo del León – current Cristo Rey Avenue. Given its importance as a vital axis of the city, in recent decades it has become the most commercial and important street in the city.

• - Mesones Street.

• - Obispo Cobos Street.

Starting in the second half of the last century, the layout of interurban infrastructures that cut the radial model along transversal axes from west to east began to be superimposed on this radial model centered on the Plaza de Andalucía.

The main system was defined by Avenida de la Constitución, Calle Cruz de Hierro, Calle Corredera de San Fernando, Calle Rastro, Calle Ancha, Calle Sagasta and Calle Obispo Cobos. This ring allows you to circumambulate the historic center, and the radial access roads to the center reach it, and from it, the different access routes to the hamlet and monumental area depart.

Úbeda, lacking a rational expansion plan, was built on the primitive roads that crossed the municipality; This is how the main axis was born: following the national highway from the west, the Avenida de la Ciudad de Linares, passing through Avenida de Ramón y Cajal, which crosses the modern center from east to west, being the most populous and busiest street in the city, and continuing with Avenida de la Libertad, which goes out to the east.

• - Ramón y Cajal Avenue.

• - Trinidad Street.

• - Linares City Avenue.

• - Porches in the San Fernando Corridor.

A second road corridor further north and parallel to the previous one is formed by the old ring road, configuring the Cronista Juan de la Torre street - Cristóbal Cantero avenue axis. From north to south, the city is organized around Torrenueva Street as an extension of Trinidad Street, and Antonio Machado Avenue as an extension of Trillo Street.

• - Don Cristóbal Cantero Avenue.

• - Torrenueva Street.

Recently, the Ronda de Antonio Muñoz Molina - or South Ronda - is a good, although partial, attempt to facilitate the entrance to the historic center from the west and along the southern cornice, but the continuity of this road until reaching the Torreperogil road remains to be resolved.

From the middle of the century, the expansions of officially protected neighborhoods will emerge and with them multi-family buildings and blocks, new educational centers and churches with few artistic pretensions. New growth is emerging to the northeast, with neighborhoods such as Cristo del Gallo or San Pedro; to the west, along Cristo Rey Avenue, the Salesian school and, as a unique example of a garden city, to the northwest, with the Colonia de San Rafael. A new concept of city and man begins, already far from tradition.

• - Paseo del León: It is the neighborhood that rises to the left of the Hospital of Santiago "Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda)"), up to the Jódar road. Its name comes in honor of the lions in the hospital, where it begins. Prior to the French invasion, it was known as the Alameda promenade, of which the council notes its total felling and destruction after the revolt, already in 1814.

• - The Esplanade: It received its name after the leveling of some hills in 1863. Once the leveling was achieved, the municipality created a walk, called the New Tower. In 1914 the Esplanade was urbanized, losing much of its extension. With the construction of the San Juan de la Cruz institute and the health center on the park, Úbeda once again sees its green areas diminished.

• - The North Park: After the frustration over the loss of the green area of ​​La Explanada in the 1970s, the idea arose of looking for a new area to enable a large park in the city. Thus, a huge piece of land measuring several hectares in size was reserved. The park was inaugurated after many vicissitudes in 2009, constituting a beautiful recreation area, around which new housing neighborhoods are expanding.

• - 28 de Febrero avenue area—old Jódar highway—: New housing developments appear along the old road, such as the Egido de San Marcos neighborhood, and agro-industrial activities served from the old Jódar highway. From this road you can also access the fairgrounds area.

In Úbeda there are the following industrial spaces:

• - Los Cerros Industrial Estate, the most important of all, located in the northern area of ​​the city, recently expanded.

• - La Alberquilla Industrial Park, the old industrial area, sometimes called to disappear due to its proximity to the eastern neighborhoods.

• - San Isidro Agricultural Estate and San Miguel Industrial Estate, located in the north of the city, away from the urban area, next to the Huertañalda urbanization.

• - Polígono Agrícola La Unión, newly built located between the Jódar highway and 28 de Febrero avenue, in the western area of ​​the city.

In addition, new logistics and industrial spaces are planned in the municipality, currently paralyzed or abandoned:.

• - La Loma logistics and business park, the construction was planned in collaboration with Baeza, at the confluence of the border of both municipalities and promoted as a link between the two new highways, the Olivar Highway and the Andrés de Vandelvira Highway. It will occupy 120 hectares between both municipalities, with 43% of these lands for productive uses - half of them will be allocated to a technological zone -, 41% for industrial use and 4% for tertiary uses, in addition to green areas and equipment.[18]​.

• - El Chantre agroindustrial estate, in El Donadío, promoted the construction of 46 warehouses, to facilitate in situ the processing and transformation of fruit and vegetable products from Las Vegas.[19]​.

agricultural sector

After the failure of the large local industry, and due to the wealth of its area and the large cultivated area, the city has retreated again towards this sector, which has expanded an important agricultural base, in percentage terms, being able to employ two or three thousand people full time. The intensive and super-productive olive grove is the greatest contributor to the family economy and the axis that nourishes the activity of a multitude of related industries and services. Previously, sheep farming and poultry farming had also been very significant, although they are now in clear decline. It is possibly today the city with the most olive oil production in the world, given that Villacarrillo, as its biggest competitor, extends beyond its region and that oil is considered from its authentic origin and not from Villacarrillo. Therefore, Úbeda is the municipal area with the largest production of olive oil in the world.[20]​.

Secondary sector

The most important industries of old Úbeda were silk, cloth, dyes, yarns and saffrons, cloths, thread, linen, hemp, cordobans, leather and chamois, ceramics and esparto "Esparto (fiber)"). With the exception of esparto grass, which did not disappear until 1970 - except for luxury crafts - and ceramics, which survived for practical reasons, the rest is lost as a result of the economic imbalance of the War of Independence, ruining the efforts of centuries. The mulberry trees that surrounded the city had been lost, and flax, hemp and sumac were no longer cultivated, causing the city to starve. To these first industries, we had to add those derived from the cultivation of the vine - stills -, the beam oil factories, soap factories, tallow candles, etc., without forgetting the abundant flour mills, fulling mills and tanneries.

Currently, the resurgent processing sector has the greatest weight in the olive grove agroindustrial conglomerate.

In the city of Úbeda, industrious par excellence, some of its traditional craft activities paved the way for a true basic and powerful industrial development, which could generate industrial plants of considerable size that reached their peak in the third quarter of the century. The cordage industry developed the manufacture of esparto grass baskets for oil mills, and from there the transformation into synthetic and textile cordage would take place; ironwork and boilermaking would be the origin of an important foundry industry and manufacturing of industrial and oil mill machinery; Tinsmithing is at the origin of the tap industry. The ceramic craftsmanship, which was maintained, also paved the way for the construction materials industry, etc. Metallurgy gave rise to two large industries: The Palacín Foundry and the Fuentes-Cardona Foundry.[21]​.

Already in 1970, a third of the active population was employed in the city's industries, some of which had more than two hundred jobs. But the industrial crisis, which in Spain coincides with the so-called "Spanish transition", was strongly felt in Úbeda; although yes, unlike other larger industrial centers, here without the support of the political actions of the so-called industrial reconversion. In Úbeda, the imagination and resources of businessmen have been the springboard that has allowed us to overcome the disaster of the disappearance of its most employing industries, without the alternative of support from official public sector plans. The lack of employment and professional opportunities has caused emigration to Madrid and Barcelona.

Tertiary sector

Based on a very ancient commercial tradition, it has experienced significant diversification – workshops, financial activities, consultancy, real estate, etc. – and has expanded its employment offer by developing public services, such as education and health, which are centralized in Úbeda to serve the population of the eastern half of the province. The hotel and restaurant industry, in the process of expansion along with tourism, employs an increasingly large population.

Evolution of municipal outstanding debt

The concept of outstanding debt contemplates only debts with savings banks and banks related to financial credits, fixed income securities and loans or credits transferred to third parties, therefore excluding commercial debt.

La ciudad cuenta con 48 monumentos notables, y más de otro centenar de edificios de interés, casi todos ellos de estilo renacentista, en equilibrio perfecto con volúmenes árabes, góticos o barrocos. Aunque curiosamente a los viajeros románticos de los siglos y les impresionó más el sabor musulmán de sus calles que ese esplendor renacentista. Todo este patrimonio llevó a Úbeda a ser la segunda ciudad de España nombrada conjunto histórico-artístico, en el año 1955. En el año 1975 recibió el nombramiento del Consejo de Europa como Ciudad Ejemplar del Renacimiento.[23]​ Por último, en 2003 fue nombrada Patrimonio de la Humanidad, junto con Baeza, por la Unesco.[1]​.

Por la ciudad se distribuyen nueve edificios declarados monumento nacional, y diecinueve declarados bien de interés cultural "Bien de interés cultural (España)") (BIC), a los que hay que añadir otros dos en su término municipal. Aunque el patrimonio es inmenso, hay que mencionar que como en otras ciudades históricas, una parte importante del mismo no ha sobrevivido hasta nuestros días, por diversos devenires. Es mucho lo que se ha perdido. En todo caso, del impresionante conjunto actual destaca el grado de conservación de muchos edificios, que aún conservan como detalles dignos de admiración las puertas de madera claveteada y sus aldabas de hierro, los faroles y las rejas.

Vazquez de Molina Square

It constitutes the monumental heart of Úbeda and forms a model of urbanism and planning unprecedented in Spain until then.

• - Sacred Chapel of the Savior (BIC): Presiding over the square, it is undoubtedly the most representative and beloved monument in the entire city. The market in front of the Sacred Chapel is, without a doubt, one of the most symbolic spaces in the city, adopting the function of a sacred theater, which had its proscenium in the atrium of the temple and the scene in the lithographic altarpiece on the façade.

• - Front façade of the Sacred Chapel of El Salvador.

• - Main Altar of the Chapel of the Savior.

• - Vault of the Sacred Chapel of El Salvador.

• - Basilica of Santa María de los Reales Alcázares (BIC): The emblematic Main Church.

• - Basilica of Santa María.

• - Interior of the Basilica of Santa María.

• - Palacio de las Cadenas (BIC): Current headquarters of the Úbeda City Council"), also known as the Vázquez de Molina palace.

• - Palace of the Chains.

• - Interior patio of the Palacio de las Cadenas.

• - Palacio de las Cadenas from the Town Hall Square.

• - Deán Ortega Palace (BIC): Next to the Sacred Chapel of El Salvador. National monument. Parador de Turismo since 1928. Museum hotel.

• - Palace of Dean Ortega.

• - Interior patio of the Palace of Dean Ortega.

• - Interior patio of the Palace of Dean Ortega.

• - Palace of the Marquis of Mancera (BIC): Typical example of a towered urban fortress. Residence of Pedro de Toledo y Leiva, first Marquis of Mancera, captain and fifteenth viceroy of Peru. The Council met in its tower, called the Treasurer, which was built on a very ancient tower of the defensive line of the fortress itself, and mounted on the missing arch of the fortress of Úbeda, the main entrance door to it.

• - Palace of the Marquis of Mancera.

• - Facade of the Palace of the Marquis of Mancera.

• - Palace of the Marquis of Mancera.

• - The Bishop's Prison: Known as “the Impartement”. Today, the courts are in what was previously called the Palacio del Moro - in the Alcázar - and below it, in the remodeling works of the court, remains of Iberian necropolises dating back to the years 1200-1400 BC have been found.

• - El Pósito: Old warehouse renovated in the century as a civil prison. Current Police Station of the National Police Corps.

• - The House of Juan de Medina. Pensioner's home since the 1930s.

• - The Venetian Fountain: It follows an octagonal fountain model symbolizing the source of life. A diplomatic gift from the Venetian Senate to the secretary of Emperor Charles V of Germany, Francisco de los Cobos.[24]​.

• - Ruins of the medieval palace of Orozco: in front of the parador, the ruins of the old medieval Palace of Orozco have also appeared, pending excavation and restoration.[25]​.

• - The Casa del Regidor: the Plateresque doorway of the Casa del Regidor, located between the temple of Santa María and the Cárcel del Obispo.

• - Statue to Vandelvira: in a central space of the square, stands the statue to the architect Andrés de Vandelvira, the work of the sculptor Francisco Palma Burgos.

Intramural

• - The Hospital de los Honrados Viejos del Salvador (BIC): declared a national monument along with the Chapel of the Savior. Located to the right of the Sacra Capilla del Salvador is Calle Baja del Salvador, which leads to a viewpoint from which you can see the Sierras de Cazorla and Mágina.

• - May 1st Square: it was the main square of Ubeta. It is colloquially known as Market Walk. From Plaza Vázquez de Molina, along Juan Ruiz González Street, we can go up to this large main square, which was the main square in medieval Úbeda. It originally followed the model of a Castilian square, and redeveloped in the 19th century, from where its current appearance comes, it is presided over by the marble monument to San Juan de la Cruz - by the sculptor Francisco Palma Burgos. On one side of the square is a secondary education institute, on one side of this building is the façade of the missing church of San Andrés. Two notable buildings are preserved in the square, the church of San Pablo and the old town hall houses.

• - The Church of San Pablo "Iglesia de San Pablo (Úbeda)") (BIC): this church with ancient foundations, one of the most beautiful in Úbeda, had the great privilege of hosting the Council of Úbeda, to follow the immemorial custom, hold its town hall meetings in the chapel of San Martín.

• - Church of San Pablo.

• - Detail of the church of San Pablo.

• - Interior of the Church of San Pablo.

• - Church of San Pablo.

• - The Old Town Hall —also called Council Palace or Old Town Hall—: attributed to Francisco del Castillo, with its double Italian arch. The arcades that surrounded its entire space or the adjacent and monumental building that was the Alhóndiga "Alhóndiga (building)"), in the same square, have disappeared. Current María de Molina professional music conservatory.

• - Old town hall houses.

• - Old town hall houses.

• - Detail of San Miguel, patron saint of Úbeda.

• - Convent of San Miguel and Oratory of San Juan de la Cruz: continuing along San Juan de la Cruz street is the convent of San Miguel, of Discalced Carmelites, and the oratory of San Juan de la Cruz, where the mystic arrived on September 27, 1591 and died on December 14 of that same year. The oratory is in the baroque style, with a beautiful altarpiece. Inside, a museum dedicated to the mystic with interesting baroque works.[26]​.

• - Convent of San Miguel.

• - Oratory of San Juan de la Cruz.

• - Main altar of the Basilica of San Juan de la Cruz in the convent of San Miguel.

• - Relics of Saint John of the Cross.

Wall

The wall of Úbeda is declared an asset of cultural interest "Asset of cultural interest (Spain)").[29]​ Due to the strategic-defensive importance it acquired, its walling was impressive, as can still be seen today. In addition to its ancient function as a defense bastion, it was later used as a customs office for muleteers and merchants and for pest control.

After its oblivion and dismantling, it is still largely preserved, although demolished and partially occupied by the farmhouse, highlighting three of its old doors and quite a few towers.

The main doors that remain are:

• - The Puerta del Losal: Mudejar arch of the century.

• - The Puerta de Granada: gave access to the old Camino Real de Granada. There is also a watering pillar from time immemorial. Tradition says that Queen Isabella the Catholic went through this door to conquer Baza "Baza (Granada)").

• - The Puerta de Santa Lucía: supposedly the Puerta de Ibiut, of which the barbican was demolished in 1855, which can still be seen under San Lorenzo.

• - Losal Gate.

• - Wall and Gate of Granada.

• - Puerta de Santa Lucía.

As for the towers, it is worth highlighting:

• - The Torre de las Arcas —or “El Castellón”—, in the Corredera de San Fernando, an octagonal albarrana tower where the treasury of the Municipal Council was kept.

• - The Clock Tower, its shadow symbolically marks the center of Úbeda, in the Plaza Vieja—current Plaza de Andalucía—; It houses the fresco in front of which Charles I swore the privileges, and the municipal bells, with a beautiful Renaissance-style upper pavilion.

• - The Tower of the Knights, on Cava Street —next to the Portillo del Santo Cristo. It can be visited, it has been set up as an interpretation center for the wall and medieval Úbeda.[30]​.

• - Tower of the Arks.

• - Tower of the Arks.

• - Clock Tower.

• - Tower and Wall of Portillo del Santo Cristo.

• -

View of olive groves from the Redonda de Miradores promenade

Paseo Redonda de Miradores: The southern part of the wall is divided into the Paseo Alto and the Paseo Bajo, and is largely a beautiful walk, since from it you can see the Sierra Mágina and the Sierra de Cazorla, in addition to the typical landscape of the "sea of olive trees" aligned over the countless small hills of the Guadalquivir Valley.

• - Huerto del Carmen: It is a place worth highlighting within this enclosure, next to the Puerta del Losal, for its picturesque walls and terraced gardens. Next to the wall of San Millán, there is a pool that collects the water that flows from an underground gallery that linked the citadel with outside the walls.

Extramural

Outside the walls there are also other important monuments:

• - Church of San Nicolás de Bari "Church of San Nicolás (Úbeda)") (BIC): a beautiful Gothic church rarely visited because it is far from the usual circuits. It has two covers—one Gothic and the other Renaissance—by Andrés de Vandelvira. Inside is the Dean's chapel with a plateresque doorway.

• - Church of San Nicolás de Bari.

• - Altarpiece of the Church of San Nicolás de Bari.

• - Interior of the Church of San Nicolás de Bari.

• - Church of San Millán: in a medieval suburb. Romanesque-Mudejar type. Its rich heritage went up in flames in July 1936.

• - Church of San Millán.

• - Church of San Millán.

• - Hospital de Santiago "Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda)") (BIC): the other symbol of the city along with El Salvador. The culminating work of Andrés de Vandelvira, it currently functions as a multi-service center for conferences and exhibitions. Flanked by four tall towers, the chapel is especially interesting, with paintings by Pedro de Raxis and Gabriel Rosales, the staircase, the sacristy and ante-sacristy, the side patios and the large central patio with Genoese white marble columns polished in Carrara. A garden has been built in the backyard. The Hospital was built in the west of the city, on the entrance route that came along the Toledo road, and which caused a disfigurement of the until then rational urban expansion of the city. The motivations for growing towards the west could have been the existence of a large number of inns (Mesones Street) and new constructions (Obispo Cobos Street) that were formed in search of travelers who came to Úbeda along this road, undoubtedly the busiest in the city.

• - Exterior of the Santiago Hospital.

• - Main patio of the Santiago Hospital.

• - Main patio of the Santiago Hospital.

• - Vault of the main staircase of the Hospital of Santiago.

• - Facade of the Santiago Hospital.

• - Back of the Santiago Hospital.

• - Church of San Isidoro: it was an Arab fortress or fort, to defend the wall to the west. With Gothic façades, the interior was a Renaissance arrangement by Alonso Barba – a disciple of Vandelvira. The monumental cruise "Cruise (architecture)") stands out especially. In the place occupied by the belfry there was a tower that was the most slender in the city, restored several times. But in 1755 an earthquake seriously damaged it and in 1848, due to the threat of ruin and due to a complaint, it was demolished and replaced by the aforementioned belfry.

• - Church of San Isidoro.

• - Church of San Isidoro.

• - Church of San Isidoro.

Outside the urban area

• - Ariza Bridge (BIC): bridge over the Guadalimar River, ordered to be built by the Council of Úbeda and designed by Andrés de Vandelvira. Still visible and possibly condemned to destruction after disappearing under the Giribaile reservoir, while the project to move it stone by stone to Úbeda has been forgotten.

• - Archaeological Zone of Úbeda la Vieja —Iltiraka or Salaria— (BIC): with numerous Ibero-Roman and earlier remains, in particular a fragment of a wall from the century and Cyclopean remains. Still unexcavated, although it is known that it has been quite looted.[31]​.

• - Old Bridge, at the foot of the Úbeda la Vieja hill is this imposing medieval bridge over the Guadalquivir, recomposed in various periods on the remains of the old Roman bridge, in the middle of the Roman road from Cástulo towards the road called "El Paso", in the direction of Granada and Baza "Baza (Granada)").

• - Sanctuary of Gavellar, dated 1381, with a beautiful colonnade and also in notable Renaissance style.

Other monuments - all of them in poor condition or in danger of disappearance - are the Church of San Bartolomé "San Bartolomé (Úbeda)"), the Torre de Garci Fernández -on a cyclopean wall-, the Dolmen del Encinarejo,[32]​ the impressive ruins of the hermitage and inn of Our Lady Mother of God of the countryside, the Molino-Palomo and on the other hand, the hermitage of San Ginés, integrated into the nineteenth-century cemetery.

In addition, other smaller units, such as old farmhouses, towers, old potteries, fountains and basins, farmhouses and farms for agricultural work that support the economy of the region, are scattered throughout the municipality. More than twenty-five rural complexes subject to protection regulations, such as the mansion-fortress of El Sotillo, the Renaissance Casa de Monsalve, the farmhouse of Teatino, Martín Ibáñez, Villatorrente, La Triviña, El Chantre, Torrubia or the Casa de Ana Prieta, Tres Cortijos, Torremochuela, Casería del Camarero.

Also notable is the extensive network of municipal agricultural roads that cross the municipality of Úbeda, with the main roads being: Camino de los Yeseros, Camino de la Vega, Camino de la Hoya del Negro, Camino de la Carralancha, Camino de Casería Monsalve, Camino de la Triviña, Camino de Santa Eulalia a Guadalupe, Camino de San Antonio, Camino de Valdejaén and Camino de Calatrava, among others. Many of these roads are in the inventory, recovery or repair phase, which also constitutes part of the municipal inventory of rural assets.

Missing

Between the Hospital of Santiago "Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda)") and Carrera de Baeza - in the current streets of Obispo Cobos and Avenida de Cristo Rey - the Alameda del León, a public garden or avenue, was built around 1558. The Alameda de la Carrera Vieja, also called Carrera de Santiago, was destroyed during the war against the French in 1810, and despite an attempt to rebuild it, its space was finally occupied with buildings during the century.

There were fifteen ecclesiastical convents, both for women and men, that existed in the city until the confiscation; Of them, eight have disappeared, completely those of San Antonio, San Nicasio, San Juan de Dios, Espíritu Santo and La Coronada. In San Andrés, the façade of the church, an interesting patio and a piece of the façade are preserved; that of San Francisco maintains two façades and part of the nave of the church; and finally the ruins of La Merced whose façade is at risk of falling.

Unfortunately, in the darkest decades of the century some valuable buildings were demolished and even their remains moved stone by stone to other cities, such as the demolished Palacio de los Aranda,[38]​ their remains were purchased by the Pickmans and can currently be seen in the Santa Cruz neighborhood "Santa Cruz (Seville)") of Seville on Lope de Rueda Street, 21.

Another monumental doorway from Ubeta that was looted at the beginning of the century is the one that can be seen today on a façade of the Rodríguez Acosta Foundation in Granada.

Catering

The supply of drinking water to Úbeda is carried out by the Úbeda Water Service, through Acciona Agua Servicios, belonging to the Acciona Group. In 2011, the company obtained the concession for a twenty-year term to manage the municipal water supply, sewerage and wastewater treatment service, distributing about 7,300 m³ daily, which represents an allocation of about 207 l/inhabitant/day.

The water that supplies the municipality comes fundamentally from the high networks of the La Loma Consortium,[39] controlled by the company Somajasa (Sociedad Mixta del Agua Jaén, S.A.), a provincial commercial entity constituted by the Provincial Council of Jaén and the company Acciona Agua. Most of it is supplied from the Las Copas DWTP, a plant that is supplied from three different catchments, Aguascebas reservoir, Guadalquivir-Mogón catchment and Guadalquivir-Santo Tomé catchment. The water that the Fuente del Roble DWTP supplies to the districts of Solana de Torralba and Veracruz&action=edit&redlink=1 "Veracruz (Úbeda) (not yet written)" also comes from the Aguascebas reservoir.

In addition, there is the municipality's own catchment, the San Bartolomé master well, which provides around 15% of the water consumed.

There are several accumulation tanks, with a total capacity of 18,780 m³, the three main ones being Atalaya, with 6,600 m³, Madre de Dios, with 10,000 m³, and Polígono, with 1,000 m³. Other smaller ones of the order of 100 m³ capacity are those that supply each of the districts of the city. The distribution network consists of about 170 km in total length.

As for rates, it is approximately 1.5 euros/m³, of which sanitation accounts for 36% and the rest for supply. Furthermore, in accordance with the provisions of the Junta de Andalucía, the concept of the Autonomous Canon for Sanitation and Purification Infrastructures is included in the periodic receipt.

The municipal wastewater is channeled through the municipal sanitation network to its end points where it is discharged directly into a public channel.

At present—February 2017—the Úbeda wastewater treatment plant is completed but has not yet been put into operation, so hardly any treatment of this water is carried out, with the exception of a tiny percentage in three small treatment plants in three scattered centers of the municipality, the Solana de Torralba, El Donadío and Veracruz WWTPs.[40]​ It is expected that it will come into operation in 2017. operation of the Úbeda WWTP, solving the current problems of discharging the population's sewage.

The main nucleus of Úbeda has a transformer substation in Huertañalda, which guarantees its own electrical demands and which in turn supplies nearby nuclei such as Baeza and Torreperogil, among others. Two overhead power lines arrive at this substation from the swamps of El Tranco, Doña Aldonza), and a third from the Linares substation.

In addition, there are two secondary or auxiliary substations, located on the El Mármol highway "El Mármol (Jaén)") and in the Doña Aldonza reservoir.

Waste and garbage management

Úbeda is included in the La Loma Consortium,[41] formed by 18 municipalities with a population of 97,810 inhabitants and a production of 32,998 t/year of waste. This consortium has a transfer station in Úbeda.

In Úbeda, waste generation has remained stable in recent years, with values ​​that varied in the years 2000 between 9,808 and 12,883 tons per year, with respect to the waste generated in the gray container. This generation in Úbeda represents only 26% of the waste generated in the consortium to which it belongs and 4.17% of the waste generated in the province and shows a generation rate of 0.82 kg per inhabitant per day, clearly lower than the provincial average which is 1.3 kg per inhabitant per day.

The management of garbage collection, street cleaning and garden care is the responsibility of the Municipal Company for Environmental Sustainable Development of Úbeda (Emdesau).

The Úbeda clean point located in the Los Cerros industrial estate is an infrastructure that has the capacity to manage the urban solid waste of a population of 50,000 inhabitants, which can be used by both residents of the town of Ubeda and the surrounding municipalities.[42]​.

It is equipped to receive and treat 23 different types of waste, including wood and furniture, debris, appliances, used oils, photography and radiography material, electrical and electronic material, paints and solvents and other materials such as glass, paper and cardboard, packaging and textiles.[42]​.

Cemeteries

The city has two funeral homes and a cemetery. The San Ginés cemetery&action=edit&redlink=1 "San Ginés Cemetery (Úbeda) (not yet written)") is located north of the city, and of the four that were built in Úbeda it is the only one that is preserved and active. It dates from 1837, although it was in 1852 - a date that appears on the "Gate (gate)" gate of its main door - when it was completely completed and the first patio and later its chapel were built.[43]​.

Health

Historically, the Hospital of Santiago "Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda)") —current cultural center— was the health center of the city for 400 years until in 1975 the Hospital San Juan de la Cruz was inaugurated, a public center classified as a regional hospital, which covers specialized medical care in the northern health area of Jaén") —regions of La Loma "La Loma (Jaén)"), Las Villas "Las Villas (Jaén)"), Sierra Mágina, Sierra of Cazorla and Sierra de Segura—and which is managed by the Andalusian Health Service (SAS) of the Junta de Andalucía.[44]​[45]​.

The health network in the municipality is complemented by the Úbeda health center —Ambulatorio Virgen del Gavellar—, the Úbeda Este health center and the auxiliary clinics in the districts of El Donadío, Santa Eulalia, Solana de Torralba and Veracruz.[46]​ In addition, the city has a Red Cross center.

Citizen security

Security in Úbeda is made up of a Civil Guard post[47]​—located in the old Guards Academy—, a National Police Corps station, a local police station), a fire station and civil protection.

As in the rest of the European Union, in Úbeda the emergency system 112 "112 (telephone)") is operational, a unique and free telephone number for assistance to citizens in an emergency situation - health, fire fighting and rescue or citizen security.

Transport

Úbeda will soon become an important communications hub at the Andalusian level as the intersection of two future highways will take place there, regaining its pre-eminence as a logistics center in the province:

• - From the north: A-32/N-322 Andrés de Vandelvira Highway (Bailén-Linares-Úbeda–Albacete), future A-32 Highway (Bailén-Albacete Highway), in service the section from Torreperogil to Bailén where it connects with the A-44 Sierra Nevada-Costa Tropical Highway.

• - From the north: A-301 (La Carolina-Úbeda) Highway from La Carolina to Úbeda, connects with the A-4 Autovía del Sur in La Carolina.

• - From the west: A-316 (Úbeda-Estepa) Autovía del Olivar, or Andalusian intermediate axis, in service from Úbeda to Martos but the section that goes from Martos to Alcaudete is still under construction.

• - From the south: A-401 Carretera de Úbeda a Moreda, (La Carolina–Jódar–Moreda), connects with the A-92 in Darro through the A-308.

The first purpose of the Úbeda bus station building was to become a station for the La Loma Electric Railway with the help of FEVE, but it was not used when the tram project was dismantled - when the renewal of the route and infrastructure was already completed - and it was adapted as a bus station and inaugurated in 1974. It is located within the urban core, being a regular stop on regional and national lines.

The urban bus service in Úbeda has had intermittent periods. It dates back to 1970 when the City Council authorized Marcelino Muñoz Herreros to launch the first urban bus service, with two lines within the urban area with a ticket price of two pesetas.[52]​.

In 1993, the company Grúas Ruiz took over management.[53] After twenty years of service, the urban bus service ceased on July 31, 2013, when the subsidy of 200,000 euros that Grúas Ruiz received from the city council as compensation to make ticket prices affordable was eliminated. Since there was no agreement between both parties, the concession was not renewed.[54]​ The city council decided to suppress the service as it was not obliged to provide that service, however, social and opposition pressure forced the service to be reestablished, awarding the concession to the Úbeda-Bus company and entering service on August 16 of that same year,[55]​ bearing all operating expenses except for canopies.[56]​ After intermittent stoppages of the service. service[57]​ ceases its activity in 2016.

In January 2017, the provision of the service was granted to the company Bus Madrid Almería (BUSBAM),[58]​[59]​ which resumed the bus service on April 10, 2017.[60]​.

The city has frequent regular services with neighboring towns in the region, the province and the Linares-Baeza Station. Úbeda does not belong to the Jaén Area Metropolitan Transport Consortium, although it has requested its inclusion in the consortium.[62] Currently there is a consortium line originating and ending in Úbeda, but only the route between Mancha Real and Jaén applies to the consortium.

Úbeda ha ejercido y es conocida por ello, la capitalidad cultural "Capital cultural (sociología)") de la comarca e incluso de la provincia en diversos ámbitos.

También como punto de encuentro del pensamiento, las instituciones educativas y artísticas, pero también como foco de difusión de la cultura teatral, festivales de música, exposiciones, conciertos multitudinarios, concursos de artes, congresos, ferias comerciales, eventos de todo tipo.

El Hospital de Santiago, como centro cultural, es el polo de atracción de toda la variada programación cultural y expositiva que ofrece la ciudad.

Algunos de los eventos más recientes que se podrían citar son el Festival de Música y Danza, el Ciclo de Música de Cámara, Festival Internacional de Música de Cine, Festival de Cuentos y Literatura de Úbeda, Festival de Música Antigua de Úbeda y Baeza, Festival de Jazz de Úbeda-Baeza, Muestra de Teatro de Otoño, Maratón de Teatro Ciudad de Úbeda, Maranatha, Festival flamenco Activo, Fiestas del Renacimiento, Jornadas de Astronomía y Astrofísica de Úbeda y Festival de música, animación y videojuegos Play-fest.

Como escenario cinematográfico, se han rodado multitud de escenas, series y películas, destacándose: Alatriste, La conjura del Escorial, El hombre que supo amar, Sonata de primavera, o la serie de televisión El pícaro.

Easter week

Holy Week in Úbeda is one of the most popular religious festivals in Andalusia, having been declared a Festival of Tourist Interest since 1980[75]​ and of National Tourist Interest in Andalusia since 1997.[76]​[77]​ From Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, 19 brotherhoods take to the streets. Holy Week in Ubeta highlights respect for the chronological order of the passion, death and resurrection of Christ.[78]​.

• - Palm Sunday begins with “el Santo Borriquillo” which stages the entry of Jesus into Jerusalem.[79]​.

• - On Holy Monday the «Our Lady of Grace»[80]​ and the «Brotherhood of Costaleros "Brotherhood of Costaleros of the Holy Christ of the Passion (Úbeda)") procession».[81]​.

• - On Holy Tuesday "the Virgin of Tears"[82]​ and the via crucis of silence of "the Dark Night".[83]​.

• - On Holy Wednesday night the sculptural group of "the Holy Supper"[84]​ and "Prendimiento".[85]​ comes out.

• - On Holy Thursday in the morning the «Christ of Prayer in the Garden» comes out;[86]​ and in the afternoon «the Column "Brotherhood of Our Lord in the Column (Úbeda)")»[87]​ and «the Humility»[88]​ —with the most spectacular band of Romans in all of Spain— process; At night it is done by "the Good Death"[89]​ and "the Sentence".[90]​.

• - The most emotional moments occur on Good Friday, with the early morning departure of «Jesús "Brotherhood of Jesús Nazareno de Úbeda (Jaén)")» with the playing of the miserere being accompanied by many faithful,[91]​ and late in the morning «la Caída "Brotherhood of Nuestro Padre Jesús de la Cáída y María Santísima de la Amargura (Úbeda)")»;[92]​ at noon «la Expiration"[93]​ and "las Angustias";[94]​ in the afternoon the climb of "la Soledad" up the Cuesta de la Merced stands out.[95]​ At night, 11 brotherhoods, 20 steps and more than 4,000 penitents process in chronological order - from Palm Sunday to Good Friday - in the Great General Procession.[96]​ Closed on Good Friday "the Holy Burial"[97]​ which also ends up joining the General Procession in front of "la Soledad".

• - On Holy Saturday there is no procession out of respect, as it is a day of mourning.[98]​.

• - On Easter Sunday and around noon, “the Risen One”[99] processions, accompanied by representatives of the rest of the brotherhoods and brotherhoods with their respective tunics; thus closing the week of Ubetense passion.

Gastronomy

Ubetense cuisine is basically Mediterranean, with La Mancha and Levantine influences, based on its Andalusian roots, with an abundance of legumes, cereals, game meat and, of course, olive oil and olives—table, green, black or the ergot variety. Some notable products are the migas, the hochío[100]​—a cake of extra virgin olive oil sprinkled with paprika. Also very typical are the pickled partridge, the buñuelos—churros—, fried in the extra virgin oil of the area, and desserts such as the Holy Week hornazo—an oil cake with matalauva and a hard-boiled egg in the center—or the papajotes").

Other traditional dishes worth highlighting are the broad bean stew with eggplant, the chickpea stew with chard, the chickpeas mareaos or morrococo, the andrajos with cod or hare, the ajilimoje, Pipirrana—cooked potato, raw tomato, onion, paprika and olive oil, garnished with a “cod skin”—and the vigil dumplings.

The products from the pig slaughter also stand out: chorizos in oil, loin in marinade, loin of orza, black pudding in a boiler with hochíos[101]​ and broad beans with hochíos.

As for pastries and sweets, it is worth mentioning, in addition to the ochios and hornazos, the borrachuelos, the Candelaria cakes, the roscos de Jesús, the sweet porridge with tostones of all the saints,[102]​ the delicious papajotes"), the croutons") and various toasts. A very popular variety of sangria "Sangría (drink)") is also made with peach, called cuerva "Cuerva (drink)").

Restaurants are proliferating throughout the city, specializing in rescuing recipes from popular knowledge and the culture of olive oil.

Bars and cantinas are the traditional meeting point of Ubetenses. In September it is possible to attend the now traditional Tapa Fair. In addition, Úbeda has its own tapas offering adapted to local cuisine: based on hochíos, blood sausage, picadillo, andrajos, local sausage, all prepared with exquisite olive oil.

There are several areas in Úbeda where there is a concentration of bars where you can taste tapas. The first of them is located in the vicinity of the Hospital of Santiago "Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda)"), on Avenida de la Constitución and Cronista Pasquau street, also known as "the corner of the bars"; The second area is located along Real Street, which serves as a connection between the monumental city and the modern city; and finally, in recent years, different bars have opened where people go mainly in summer, in the Redonda de Miradores, a magnificent balcony overlooking the Guadalquivir valley, with incredible views of the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas natural park and the Sierra Mágina natural park.

Renaissance cuisine also has its prominent place. The city celebrates its Renaissance Gastronomic Days between the months of January and March in emblematic restaurants, dinners or lunches, sometimes accompanied by shows.

Craft

Úbeda has been famous for its industry and crafts since the time of Al-Andalus, as well as for manufacturing products such as ubedíes - esparto mats "Esparto (fiber)") woven and embroidered by hand -, or various pottery, forging, ceramics, cloths, woven "Tissue (textile)") and tanning objects whose tradition is maintained to this day. Both industries, esparto grass and pottery, were of capital importance in the Ubetense economy.

With one of the largest concentrations of artisan workshops in Spain, local artisans work to keep alive the best traditions of the past: pottery, wood, esparto, wicker, palm, stone workshop, forging, tanning, stained glass, etc.

traditional dance

Ubetense folklore is very similar to that of the rest of the province of Jaén, that is, a fusion of Castilian and Andalusian dances with a characteristic and marked Levantine air. They are simple and calm dances that began to take shape at the beginning of the century in the cities and countryside of Jaén. Among them, apart from jotas and fandangos "Fandango (dance)"), the bolero stands out. The sung lyric, so typical of the Renaissance, also enjoyed a formidable boom throughout the entire region of Úbeda.

The typical dance of Úbeda is, specifically, the bolero of Úbeda. This dance was usually performed at the city's popular festivals in which people participated wearing regional costume.

Typical costume

The Ubetense regional costume was standardized in 1925 at the request of the Marchioness of La Rambla, who had the most common clothing used in the city's festivals during the previous century studied and selected. In this way, the typical costume that the women and men of Úbeda would wear was created.[103]​.

The woman's costume is the most characteristic, highlighting a colorful embroidered sash covered with a black skirt, the palloleta, also made of embroidered cloth that crosses the chest, as well as a silk shawl.

The men's uniform is very similar to that of the rest of the Jaén municipalities, the most characteristic element being the use of the typical Calañés, open jacket and printed vest.

Currently, the rich Ubetense folklore does not enjoy the support and appreciation that it had in the past, and the use of regional costume has been relegated to the bridesmaids of the pilgrimage of the Virgin of Guadalupe "Virgen de Guadalupe (Úbeda)").[104]​ It is also used by the Parador de Úbeda service as a tourist attraction.[105]​.

Language

The dialect variant most used in Úbeda is called ubedí,[106]​ a mixture of the La Mancha and Andalusian dialect, whose most characteristic and popular word is, possibly «inchi», which means "look" or "go" depending on the context, or also the famous expression «ea» that can be used to affirm something.

Festivities and events

• - January to March: Gastronomic Days in the Renaissance, try to show the art of good eating through participating restaurants that serve menus that include starters, first and second courses, as well as desserts and traditional drinks of Renaissance cuisine, with numerous original recipes from the centuries and .[107]​.

• - January 16: Bonfires of San Antón, "las lumbres" are celebrated on the eve of the day of San Antonio Abad. In the past it was done by burning old furniture and using matalaúva cigarettes. Currently, bonfires are made in various neighborhoods, it is typical to roast sardines, and on the pyre in the Primero de Mayo square, to jump over the embers.[108]​.

• - February 2: Candlemas Festival. Candelaria cakes are created, sweet bread and oil with a circular and flattened shape that are tasted in the city on the occasion of the festival.

• - February to March: Carnival, a festival in which many citizens dress up and sing their coplillas to Úbeda at the street carnival. A competition is held for groups with a clear Cádiz influence with various modalities: choirs—for the first time in 2007—, comparsas, chirigotas, quartets. His parade and the burial of the sardine the following week also stand out.[109]​.

• - February - March. Linked to agricultural tradition, the «Butifuera» is a celebration in which the olive growers participate at the end of the olive harvest, and in which the owner of the olives organizes a picnic.

• - March: Úbeda Artistic Days, in which the city experiences different activities of great importance around the watercolor technique: International Exhibition of Watercolor Artists, Art Market or the prestigious International Outdoor Painting Contest 'Úbeda World Heritage Site'.

• - March - April: Úbeda Zombie Experience is one of the most important real games in Andalusia. A survival game in the historic center of Úbeda in which the survivors must escape during the night from the zombies, reaching more than 400 participants from all over the country to enjoy a different weekend.[110]​.

• - March - April: Holy Week in Úbeda, from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, with 19 brotherhoods and brotherhoods participating in it.

• - April to May: Contest/Contest 'Flamencos Mestizos', a series created at the initiative of the singer, composer and music producer Paco Ortega that takes up the baton of the old 'Ámonos pal flamenco Festival, to offer a window to the youngest or most innovative emerging projects that are fighting to appear in the current flamenco panorama. Pure flamenco, of those that have collected the values ​​of tradition and flamenco that looks at the miscegenation, the exchange of race and cultures.

• - May 1: the Pilgrimage of the Virgin of Guadalupe "Virgen de Guadalupe (Úbeda)"), patron saint of Úbeda,[111]​ is celebrated, moving from her Sanctuary of Gavellar"), to the village of Santa Eulalia "Santa Eulalia (Jaén)") — in local dialect— where various events are celebrated, and from there to Úbeda, where during the summer He will worship him in his chapel in the Basilica of Santa María de los Reales Alcázares. It is known as the "Large Pilgrimage."

Museums

• - Mudéjar House-Archaeological Museum of Úbeda.[121]​.

• - Paco Tito Pottery Museum Memoria de lo Tidiano[122]​ (Registered in the Andalusian Registry of Museums).

• - Museum of San Juan de la Cruz.

Media

The main provincial newspapers —Ideal "Ideal (newspaper)") and Diario Jaén— have correspondents in Úbeda, which also publish free local versions of their newspapers monthly. At the regional level, Úbeda-Baeza Comarcal is also published. All of them with a daily presence on the Internet.

The main national and regional radio stations are received in Úbeda. At the local level it has Radio Úbeda") —associated with Cadena SER—, and the music radio stations Los 40 Úbeda "LOS40 (España)") ​​and M80 Renacimiento.[123]​ which does not yet transmit but will do so soon.

As for television, Úbeda is the head of the local digital terrestrial television demarcation (TL06J), with two regional television stations that broadcast in the La Loma region, Diez TV —from Úbeda— and 9laLoma") —from Baeza—.

Sport

Úbeda had a soccer team that regularly played in Group IX of the Third Division, the Úbeda Club de Fútbol, ​​until in the 2005-2006 season "Annex: Third Division of Spain 2005-06 / Group IX (Eastern Andalusia and Melilla)") it was relegated to the Andalusian First Division due to the club's financial problems. The second team in Úbeda was the Club Deportivo Úbeda Viva"), which has gone from being the green subsidiary to being the first team in the city, after the Úbeda Football Club disappeared. The Club Deportivo Úbeda Viva") currently plays in the Andalusian First Division.

The most popular sport is football, with different local association and amateur leagues. There are also different amateur futsal teams and other grassroots sports.

Other sports with great fans in Úbeda are paddle tennis, of which some international open and several no less important tournaments have already been held, and chess, with the Santa Juana de Arc Chess Club existing.

Úbeda also has several athletics clubs, using the infrastructure of the Antonio Cruz Sánchez municipal sports complex. Since the reform of the athletics tracks, Úbeda has hosted major athletics events and championships at the regional and national level.[124]​.

It is also necessary to point out the great interest in rugby in recent years, an interest reflected in the birth in 2010 of the Úbeda Atlantes Rugby Club), which plays in the provincial league and actively participates in the training of youth players for Jaén Rugby, a club that in turn has contributed experience and resources to the local team. The controversy that has arisen around this sport is also notable, mainly due to the lack of a training field in the city and the constant denial of the Úbeda Viva Sports Club") to achieve a definitive solution to the conflict.[125]​[126]​.

The strong love of cycling in the city, and with the support of associations and clubs, activities, marches, tests and cycling meetings are periodically organized.

Another notable sporting hobby is the breeding of the Jaén pouter, where it has the Los Cerros de Úbeda Pigeon Farming Association whose members compete in various competitions at the provincial and regional level, obtaining important prizes. In March 2016, the twenty-sixth edition of the National Breed Pigeon Championship was held in Úbeda.[127]​.

In terms of infrastructure, at the moment, the city has great shortcomings. For example, it lacks a complete sports city. Of the municipal sports facilities, the most important within the San Miguel Municipal Stadium is the Antonio Cruz Sánchez municipal sports complex, where the training and matches of the Úbeda Viva Sports Club take place. It has an artificial grass field for 11-a-side soccer, a natural grass field for 11-a-side soccer, an artificial grass field for indoor soccer, a paddle tennis court, an athletics track, a beach volleyball court, two bike trial circuits "Trial". (cycling)"), a long jump pit and a gym. In addition to changing rooms, showers, offices, sports schools, etc.[128]​[129]​ The El Viejo municipal sports complex has a sports pavilion and several attached outdoor courts for tennis, paddle tennis, basketball, a sports center and a skating rink. In addition, the facility has a municipal swimming pool with garden areas and recess.[129]​[130]​.

Municipal government

The municipal administration is carried out by the Úbeda City Council, the institution that governs the municipality and whose members are elected every four years by universal suffrage since the first municipal elections after the restoration of democracy in Spain, in 1979. The Úbeda town council has 21 councilors, according to the provisions of the organic law of the General Electoral Regime,[132]​ which establishes the number of eligible councilors based on the population of the municipality. The electoral roll is made up of residents over 18 years of age registered in the municipality, whether they are of Spanish nationality or from any member country of the European Union.

Territorial organization

The city is made up of different neighborhoods or neighborhoods, some official and others popularly divided. The ancients have their roots in the old collations: San Pedro, San Pablo, San Nicolás, San Lorenzo, Santo Tomás, la Trinidad, San Isidoro, Santo Domingo, San Marcos, the Cuesta del Gallo, and the medieval neighborhood of El Alcázar or the neighborhood of Carmen. The most popular Ubetense neighborhood is San Millán—or Algarabía neighborhood—which has always been an almost independent suburb outside the walls, residence of the Mozarabic and later Mudejar nuclei.

The most modern neighborhoods are: Las Canteras, Puerta del Sol, La Alameda, El Alamillo, la Guita, La Explanada, San Pedro (new), Torrenueva, El León, El Egido de San Marcos, El Comendador—or Ávilas Rojas—, Atalaya and Parque Norte, and the neighborhoods of Las Vaguadas, and Federico García Lorca.

In addition to the city of Úbeda, the municipality of Ubeda is home to almost 1,000 inhabitants residing in other areas, such as the districts of Santa Eulalia "Santa Eulalia (Jaén)") —known as Santolaya—, Solana de Torralba, Veracruz&action=edit&redlink=1 "Veracruz (Úbeda) (not yet written)"), San Miguel "San Miguel (Úbeda)") and The Donadío.

The urbanizations of the municipality constitute neighborhood groups located at a relative distance from the urban center of Úbeda. These are usually residential chalets. The main ones are:

• - Bétula Urbanization: located one kilometer west of the urban area, its main access is the N-322 highway.

• - San Bartolomé "San Bartolomé (Úbeda)"): located a few kilometers east of the urban area, in the direction of Torreperogil, its access is via the N-322 highway.

• - El Campillo: to the east on the N-322, in front of San Bartolomé "San Bartolomé (Úbeda)"), in the direction of Torreperogil.

• - Huertañalda: north of the urban area on the JV-6043").

• - Ubedi.

• - Wikimedia Commons hosts a multimedia category on Úbeda.

• - Wikiviajes hosts travel guides to or about Úbeda.

• - Úbeda on OpenStreetMap.

• - Úbeda on Wikimapia.

• - Úbeda City Council.

• - Cultural heritage of Úbeda in the Digital Guide to the Cultural Heritage of Andalusia. Andalusian Institute of Historical Heritage.

• - Renaissance Monumental Complex of Úbeda and Baeza.

• - Article about María de Molina by Manuel Almagro Chinchilla. Archived September 25, 2019 at the Wayback Machine.