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Evaluation of decorated columbariums
Introduction
The Valley of the Fallen, officially called Valle de Cuelgamuros since 2022,[3] is a monumental complex[4] formed by a Catholic basilica, an abbey and a 150 m high cross sitting on the summit of a cliff that dominates the entire surrounding valley;[5] with the peculiarity that the basilica is entirely underground. It is located in the Cuelgamuros valley of the Guadarrama mountain range, in the municipality of San Lorenzo de El Escorial, Community of Madrid, Spain, 9.5 km north of the El Escorial monastery and about 50 km northwest of Madrid.[4] It was built between 1940 and 1958 mainly with the labor of republican political prisoners,[6][7] and also hired workers.[8][9].
The architects Pedro Muguruza and Diego Méndez "Diego Méndez (architect)" participated in its design); The sculptures correspond to Juan de Ávalos and Taborda, among others.[10][11] It is considered one of the greatest exponents of Francoist architecture.[12] The cross is 150 meters high (with arms of 24 meters each), thus becoming the tallest in the world.[13].
The group continues to belong to the Foundation of the Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos, whose dissolution is provided for in article 54 of the Democratic Memory Law. Until the publication of the corresponding Royal Decree (in July 2025 it had not yet been approved), its functions have been assumed by National Heritage, as established in the first Transitional Provision of said law.[note 1] Since 1990 the annual number of visitors varies between 150,000 and 500,000.[14][15].
General Francisco Franco ordered its construction in 1940 and that José Antonio Primo de Rivera, founder of the Spanish Falange, and the fallen of the "Glorious Crusade" were buried there. Shortly before its inauguration in 1959, the remains of soldiers from the Republican side were brought there, so that 33,833 combatants from both sides of the Spanish civil war were finally buried. There is no separation by sides, both sides are intermingled.[17] With officially remains of 33,847 different people,[18] and classified as the "largest mass grave in Spain",[19] according to a source from the Valley included in an article published in El País in 2008, the exhumation of corpses would be impossible given that these would have ended up forming part of the structure of the building itself, having been used to fill internal cavities of the crypts,[18] and that, due to the effect of humidity, they would have ended up forming an "indissoluble collective corpse."[20] CSIC tests in 2018 confirm this.[21].
Evaluation of decorated columbariums
Introduction
The Valley of the Fallen, officially called Valle de Cuelgamuros since 2022,[3] is a monumental complex[4] formed by a Catholic basilica, an abbey and a 150 m high cross sitting on the summit of a cliff that dominates the entire surrounding valley;[5] with the peculiarity that the basilica is entirely underground. It is located in the Cuelgamuros valley of the Guadarrama mountain range, in the municipality of San Lorenzo de El Escorial, Community of Madrid, Spain, 9.5 km north of the El Escorial monastery and about 50 km northwest of Madrid.[4] It was built between 1940 and 1958 mainly with the labor of republican political prisoners,[6][7] and also hired workers.[8][9].
The architects Pedro Muguruza and Diego Méndez "Diego Méndez (architect)" participated in its design); The sculptures correspond to Juan de Ávalos and Taborda, among others.[10][11] It is considered one of the greatest exponents of Francoist architecture.[12] The cross is 150 meters high (with arms of 24 meters each), thus becoming the tallest in the world.[13].
The group continues to belong to the Foundation of the Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos, whose dissolution is provided for in article 54 of the Democratic Memory Law. Until the publication of the corresponding Royal Decree (in July 2025 it had not yet been approved), its functions have been assumed by National Heritage, as established in the first Transitional Provision of said law.[note 1] Since 1990 the annual number of visitors varies between 150,000 and 500,000.[14][15].
General Francisco Franco ordered its construction in 1940 and that José Antonio Primo de Rivera, founder of the Spanish Falange, and the fallen of the "Glorious Crusade" were buried there. Shortly before its inauguration in 1959, the remains of soldiers from the Republican side were brought there, so that 33,833 combatants from both sides of the Spanish civil war were finally buried. There is no separation by sides, both sides are intermingled.[17] With officially remains of 33,847 different people,[18] and classified as the "largest mass grave in Spain",[19] according to a source from the Valley included in an article published in El País in 2008, the exhumation of corpses would be impossible given that these would have ended up forming part of the structure of the building itself, having been used to fill internal cavities of the crypts,[18] and that, due to the effect of humidity, they would have ended up forming an "indissoluble collective corpse."[20] CSIC tests in 2018 confirm this.[21].
In 2012, a partial restoration was completed.[22] In 2018, visits grew by 103% and reached more than 4,000 per weekend on the occasion of the announcement of the then possible exhumation of Franco.[23] The disinterment was finally carried out on October 24, 2019. The remains of the former head of state were transferred to the Mingorrubio cemetery, along with those of his widow Carmen Polo, thus fulfilling Franco's wish to be buried with his wife outside the monument[24] and an ad hoc reform of the Historical Memory Law approved in 2018 with the exclusive purpose of exhumation.[25][26].
José Antonio Primo de Rivera was also exhumed in 2023 at the request of his family,[27] whose remains currently rest in the San Isidro cemetery, along with his relatives.
Location
The monument is located in the Cuelgamuros valley, at the southern end of the Guadarrama mountain range. Like the rest of the mountain range, the valley environment is made up of large granite formations, and its predominant vegetation is coniferous forests, although oaks, some elms and, among the shrubs, rockrose, rosemary and thyme also stand out. It is flanked by several hills and is crossed by some streams; one of them, the Boquerón Chico"), has a dam and supplies water to the monastery.
It is located in the municipality of San Lorenzo de El Escorial. The enclosure, with its buildings, constitutes a fenced and walled property of 1,365 hectares, which limits to the north with the municipality of Guadarrama "Guadarrama (Madrid)") and to the south with the Guatel stream, the Solana estate and the La Jurisdicción mountain. The road from El Escorial to Guadarrama and the La Solana farm runs to the east, and to the west the municipalities of Peguerinos and Santa María de la Alameda. Its altitude is between 985 and 1758 meters above sea level; The latter belongs to the Risco de los Abantos.
In the Property Registry of the middle of the century the property appears registered with the name Pinar de Cuelga Moros, which becomes Cuelgamuros in the registration registered in 1875 and in all subsequent ones. Its last owner before the forced expropriation by the State was Gabriel Padierna de Villapadierna"), Marquis of Muñiz. The amount of the expropriation, carried out by emergency means, was 653,483.76 pesetas. Its altitude is between 985 and 1,758 meters above sea level. This last maximum elevation corresponds to the Risco de Abantos, while the Risco de la Nava, on which the great cross would be built, is located around 1,400 meters. The idea was that the monument would be visible from Madrid on clear days.[28].
Cuelgamuros is located in the Guadarrama mountain range and is almost equidistant from Madrid (58 km), Ávila (55 km) and Segovia (50 km). The Valley of the Fallen can only be accessed through the M-527 highway.
History
Contenido
Nada más terminar la guerra civil la geografía española se llenó de cruces y de monumentos a los caídos del bando nacional pero «el proyecto más ambicioso del régimen destinado a conmemorar la Victoria y a honrar a los perecidos franquistas fue, sin ningún asomo de duda, el colosal Valle de los Caídos».[29] Tras su inauguración en 1959 se convirtió en uno de los símbolos del franquismo, con la «clara intención de que el régimen contase con un gran monumento que representase todo aquello en lo que se sustentaba», «un recordatorio de la Victoria y de la sangre derramada por ella». Por otro lado, fue el proyecto personal del Generalísimo Franco.[30].
Background: Franco's cult of those "fallen for God and for Spain"
In the "symbolic construction" of Francoism, as Zira Box has called it, the war from which it had emerged was the unequivocal reference and especially "everything that had to do with the rhetoric and ritual around the fallen."[31] An assessment shared by the historian Javier Rodrigo for whom "of the policies focused on the articulation and achievement of an active consensus around the Regime, its Caudillo and the values it represented, none It had, possibly, as much daily importance ―apart from welfare policies― as the cult of the memory of the fallen.
In Franco's imagination "the blood shed by those who fell in the war was the sowing whose harvest was reaped with the New Spain of Victory."[31] This is what Franco himself recalled in a speech given in Asturias in 1946: "There is no redemption without blood, and blessed a thousand times is the blood that has brought us our redemption." Ernesto Giménez Caballero told General Moscardó in May 1939: «Franco's soldiers! Anointed with glory and Empire! Only heroic death becomes fruitful life. Only blood moves History. Only the Fallen raised Spain upwards."[34] Three days after the war ended, Generalissimo Franco declared through General Saliquet that "in the moments when with the final victory we reap the fruits of so much sacrifice and heroism, my heart is with the combatants of Spain, and my memory, with the fallen forever in their service."[35].
Indeed, as Zira Box has highlighted, "the Spanish dictatorship spared no effort in granting a position of honor to those who had fallen for it." The country was filled with monuments and crosses raised in his honor and massive funerals, masses, demonstrations and parades were held in his memory. winners».[37].
Franco's rhetoric and ritual around the fallen came fundamentally from the Spanish Falange, whose young "fallen" were progressively exalted and sacralized - its leader José Antonio Primo de Rivera continually insisted on the idea of death as an act of service and sacrifice. At the burial of the "fallen quarter" of the Falange in early 1934, the ritual of shouting "Present!" after pronouncing the name of the dead "comrade" - a ritual that the Falangists had taken from the Italian fascists -.[38] Upon the first anniversary of the founding of the Falange on October 29, 1934, that date was established as the party's Memorial Day and at all funerals for the dead militants the Prayer for the dead of the Falange composed by Rafael Sánchez would be read Macas.[39] After General Franco promulgated the Decree of Unification between the Falange and the Traditionalist Communion in April 1937, the fallen would no longer be for the "National-Syndicalist Revolution" or for Spain as it was said in the Falangist rituals or "for God" or for Spain as it was said in the Carlists - who had their own commemoration of their dead, the Feast of the Martyrs of Tradition, created in 1895 and which was celebrated every March 10―[40] but "for God, for Spain and for its national-syndicalist revolution" and later according to the formula that ended up being imposed: "for God and for Spain."[36].
Shortly after the promulgation of the decree of November 16, 1938, which established November 20 of each year as a day of national mourning, in commemoration of the date on which José Antonio Primo de Rivera was shot - and in which, among other commemorative measures, it was announced that a monument "of adequate importance to the honors of the commemoration" would be erected -, the Political Board of the single party FET and of The JONS ordered that all churches display on their walls commemorative plaques with the list of those "fallen for God and for the Country" of each locality headed with the name of José Antonio Primo de Rivera.[41] As Zira Box has highlighted, "if there was a fall par excellence within the New Francoist State, it was undoubtedly José Antonio."[42].
As soon as the war ended, monuments to the fallen of the "national side" were erected everywhere with the clear political intention of affirming the new Franco regime whose idea of Spain did not include those of the defeated side (who were part of the anti-Spain, according to the rhetoric of the Franco regime).[33] According to Borja de Riquer, "there was no interest in politically integrating the defeated, nor in seeking a reconciliation, they only wanted to destroy or submit."[43] Already at the beginning of the civil war, General Mola had warned: "No surrender or embrace of Vergara, nor the Zanjón pacts, nor anything that is not an overwhelming and definitive victory."[44] On December 31, 1938, at the beginning of the offensive in Catalonia, General Franco warned in an interview with Manuel Aznar that there would be neither amnesty nor reconciliation for the Republicans. Only punishment and repentance would open the door to their "redemption", exclusively for those who were not "hardened criminals", for whom only death awaited them.[45]
Once the war was over, the number two of the regime, Ramón Serrano Suñer denied that there could be any type of reconciliation because the defeated were an "irredeemable, unforgivable and criminal enemy" on whom "the sentence of irrevocable exclusion must fall, without which the very existence of the Homeland would be at risk." pacts with the anti-Spanish revolution, cannot be eradicated in a day, and flutters in the depths of many consciences," he said on May 19, 1939, the day of the Victory Parade - and that there would be no amnesty or reconciliation either.[47] This was stated in his New Year's Eve message of 1939, "the Year of Victory", when he ruled out the "monstrous and suicidal amnesties, which contain more of swindling than forgiveness", and instead advocated for the defeated the "redemption of the penalty through work, repentance and penance" because "whoever thinks otherwise, either sins through unconsciousness or betrayal." "There are so many damages caused to the Homeland, so serious the damage caused to families and morale, so many victims who demand justice, that no honest Spaniard, no conscious being can deviate from these painful duties," he added.[48] So Franco ordered the launch of the "General Cause on Red Domination in Spain" in order to punish "the criminal acts committed throughout the national territory during Red Domination."[49] General Cause which, according to Julián Casanova, confirmed "the social division between winners and losers, 'patriots and traitors', 'nationals and reds'".[50] For the defeated, "the mourning and support of the community were replaced by insult, humiliation, threats and economic hardships."[51].
There were so many initiatives to erect monuments to the fallen that an order was promulgated on August 7, 1939 to unify their style and meaning. "The political purposes that the monuments to the dead condensed were multiple: remembering Victory as the founding myth of the regime, praising the victors, subduing the defeated, showing the people some of the foundations of the new political system (such as peace, concord, solidity...) or exalting the power of those who, having won with arms, paid tribute to their achievements to the deceased."[52].
According to the order, all projects had to be approved by the Undersecretariat of Press and Propaganda dependent on the Ministry of the Interior following a technical and artistic report from the General Directorate of Architecture, directed by Pedro Muguruza ―who would be the first architect of the Valley of the Fallen―, and by the Plastics Department of the General Directorate of Propaganda, directed by the Falangist poster artist Juan Cabanas, under the orders of also Falangist Dionisio Ridruejo. However, after the crisis of May 1941, the Press and Propaganda services became dependent on the Vice Secretary of Popular Education, directed by the monarchist and Catholic Gabriel Arias-Salgado. The guidelines that emanated from these organizations for the erection of monuments to the fallen were based on clear principles - "sobriety, austerity, classicism, simplicity and decorum, characteristics that were part of the architectural ideal of the Spanish fascists" - and all of them had to be crowned by the cross as the main element of the monument - "a decorous, proportionate cross that was integrated within the monumental complex", explains Zira Box - to which They could accompany allegorical figures such as the eagle or the laurel or symbols of the new regime such as the yoke and arrows, the Francoist shield or the Vítor "Vítor (symbol)"). In fact, many projects were rejected for not complying with these principles.[53] On the other hand, "Memorial Day", October 29, was chosen to inaugurate the plaques and monuments.[29].
Creation
As a monument referring to the Civil War, the Valley of the Fallen was conceived by Franco with the proclaimed purpose of honoring and burying those who fell fighting alongside him in the "Glorious Crusade."[54][55][56] It was in that sense a monument of exaltation of the Franco dictatorship,[57] which became so identified with the figure of the dictator that generations will pass before he loses his "shocking symbology” and becomes another milestone.[58].
In the preamble of the decree signed by Franco on April 1, 1940, the first anniversary of his Victory in the civil war, which ordered its construction, its purpose was explained:[56].
The preamble of the Decree made it very clear that the monument was going to honor and commemorate "those who fell in the path of God and Country", "the heroes and martyrs of the Crusade", that is, the fallen of the winning side in the civil war.[59].
The decree creating what would be called the Valley of the Fallen - whose preamble, according to Paul Preston, "clearly revealed Franco's megalomaniac ideas about his place in history" -[60] was promulgated by Franco on the day of the first anniversary of his victory in the Crusade. That same day the second "Victory Parade" was held in Madrid (the first had taken place the previous year, a month and a half after the war ended) and at noon a victory lunch was held in the Palacio de Oriente attended by the government, the heads of the single party, generals and members of the diplomatic corps - in fact Mrs. Carmen Polo sat between the ambassadors of her husband's two great allies, fascist Italy and Nazi Germany.[60] After eating All attendees led by Caudillo himself were taken in official cars to the Cuelgamuros estate - on the slopes of the Sierra de Guadarrama, near El Escorial -, the place where the "Basilica, Monastery and Youth Barracks" were going to be built, as stated in article 1 of the decree. After General Franco reviewed a company that honored him, Colonel Valentín Galarza, Undersecretary of the Presidency of the Government, read the decree. To the three successive shouts of "Spain!" launched by Franco, the attendees responded with shouts of "One! Great!" and Free! The first charge of dynamite then exploded, after which Franco himself explained the grandeur of the project he had in mind. Right next to him were his wife, Rafael Sánchez Mazas, Ramón Serrano Suñer and the architect Pedro Muguruza.[60][61][62] The newspaper ABC "ABC (newspaper)") published the next day that the monument "will have the grandeur that the idea imposes and that the happy location chosen demands, so that the pilgrimages of believing patriots can meet in one of the mountains of the central system."[63].
The Valley of the Fallen was a personal project of Franco's that he said he had conceived long before the end of the war;[64] as Franco himself confessed to the first mitered abbot of the Valley, Fray Justo Pérez de Urbel: "In reality, it was not about discovering, but rather identifying and locating an image that he had inside," he told him.[29][65] For his part, the architect in charge of the Valley Diego Méndez "Diego Méndez (architect)"), who had worked closely with the , declared shortly before its inauguration that "from the beginning of the war, Franco felt the moral, we could say even physical, need to raise a monument with which to "honor the dead as much as they honored us." According to Méndez, Franco was obsessed with the idea. "Since the spark of the idea burned his restlessness, Franco had a starting point: that the posthumous meeting of the best would be a crypt, in the heart of a mountain..." According to his cousin and secretary Francisco Franco Salgado-Araújo, Franco "may have wanted to imitate Philip II, who built the monastery of El Escorial to commemorate the battle of San Quintín "Battle of San Quintín (1557)").[66].
Construction
On April 3, 1940, the architect in charge of the works, Pedro Muguruza, declared to the press that Franco "has a strong desire for the work on the crypt to be completed within a year, to be inaugurated on April 1, 1941, and within five years, all the buildings, including the gardens that will surround the monument." However, the construction lasted almost twenty years.[92] To try to accelerate the works, on July 31, 1941, more than a year after the project began, the Monument to the Fallen Works Council was created, made up of eight people, including Muguruza himself, and chaired by the Minister of the Interior. In the second paragraph of the decree it was said: "With all the project work carried out to date, and the work to carry it out of the same (sic) already begun in a sensitive manner, the time has come to decisively promote the work to complete its completion in the shortest possible time, creating a management body with the authority and management autonomy necessary to solve all the difficulties that the present circumstances may present in the face of the rapid progress of the work."[93] To defray the costs of the work, the "national subscription" that was established in the 1940 decree, was added in this second decree "those contributions that the Government deems appropriate to allocate to it (sic)."[94].
The San Román company from Madrid (a subsidiary of Agromán, with which it would later be merged) was responsible for drilling the crypt, the Molán company, also from Madrid, was responsible for the construction of the building initially intended as a monastery, and the construction of the access road was carried out by the company founded by the children of a modest Catalan contractor named Banús.[95].
Republican political prisoners who had taken advantage of the Redemption of Penalties for Work were used in the work. There were fourteen deaths and many more injured due to accidents, not counting those who ended up suffering from silicosis.[74] Many of the large construction companies of the Franco era, such as Banús, Agromán or Huarte, started there.[72].
In November 1950, the work on the current residence was completed and the cross project was approved, whose construction began in 1951; In 1952 the esplanade was planned and the expansion of the Crypt opening was approved, whose work continued in 1953 and 1954, when the completion of the transept was planned. The stonework covering of the walls and vault of the crypt, galleries and sacristies began in 1955. In 1956 the choir, the altars and the paving of the crypt were built; Finally, in 1957, the rear portico and the large cloister, the Monastery and the Novitiate were designed, works that were completed in 1958.[96].
The construction of the cross was completed in 1956. It measured almost one hundred and fifty meters high and, standing on a cliff of the same elevation, could be seen from more than fifty kilometers away.[81].
Opening
When the inauguration was approaching, General Franco promulgated the Decree-Law of August 23, 1957, which created the Foundation of the Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos, which would take charge of the monument under the presidency of Franco himself. In the preamble it was recalled that the "National Monument to the Fallen" had been created to "perpetuate the memory of those who fell in the Liberation Crusade, to honor those who gave their lives for God and for the Country" and as a "place of prayer" "for the souls of those who gave their lives for their Faith and for their Country" but then it was said that "the sacred duty of honoring our heroes and our martyrs must always be accompanied by the feeling of forgiveness that the evangelical message imposes" and that "in addition, the decades of peace that have followed the Victory have seen the development of a policy guided by the highest sense of unity and brotherhood among the Spanish" so "this must be, consequently, the Monument to all the Fallen, over whose sacrifice the pacifying arms of the Cross triumph."[138].
Months later, Franco's cousin and secretary Francisco Franco Salgado-Araújo commented to Caudillo that "in some sectors it had been felt bad that both those who fell defending the Crusade and the Reds could be buried in the crypt; that for that, those are fine where they are. Franco responds: «Indeed, it is true that there has been some very correct insinuation about the forgetting of the origin of factions in the Catholic dead. It seems good to me, since there were many on the red side who fought because they believed they were complying with the Republic, and others, because they had been forcibly mobilized. The monument was not made to continue dividing the Spanish into two irreconcilable sides. It was done, and that was always my intention, as a memory of a victory over communism, which was trying to dominate Spain..."[139] However, what Franco said to his cousin is contradicted by the letter he sent shortly after, on March 7, 1959, to José Antonio Primo de Rivera's brothers, Miguel and Pilar, to give permission to bury him in the valley. In the letter Franco states that "the great basilica of the Valley of the Fallen" was "built to house the heroes and martyrs of our Crusade" and speaks of the "preferential place" that corresponds to José Antonio "among our glorious fallen."[140] Only one month after the Valley was inaugurated, in an interview given to the newspaper Pueblo "Pueblo (newspaper)") Franco once again said that the monument was intended to "give honor, prayers and burial to our fallen for God and for Spain."[135] Another proof that contradicts what Franco stated, according to Daniel Sueiro, is that "above the doors that in the crypt give access to those underground tombs, open in the two side chapels of the transept, the chapel of the tomb and the chapel of the Holy Sacrament, these unequivocal signs appear in metal letters: FALLEN for God and for Spain. 1936-1939. R.I.P. [in bold in the original]».[141].
Franco's grave
According to Diego Méndez "Diego Méndez (architect)"), the architect who replaced Pedro Muguruza in 1950 when he fell seriously ill, General Franco, although he never said it publicly, wanted to be buried in the Valley of the Fallen. That is why Méndez made the plans for a tomb located on the other side of the main altar where José Antonio Primo de Rivera, leader of the Spanish Falange, was buried. He previously consulted the idea with Luis Carrero Blanco, Undersecretary of the Presidency: "Hey, Luis, we have to ask the Generalissimo one day to see what idea he has, to see if he wants us to prepare something for him in the Valley." «Well, you talk to him, you talk to him; One day he goes there, because of the works you ask him. «But how am I going to ask him...? "It's very difficult, for me it's very violent." «Of course, you're right, but for me too, don't think...» Anyway, that's how it ended. But I told Carrero: «Look, I'm going to prepare his grave there anyway, just like we did for José Antonio, in the back, there I'm going to prepare the grave for him. What do you think? «It seems very good to me. Yes, prepare it for him, because I am sure that he will want to go to the monument. Ask him, and we will have the opportunity to ask him."[161] Méndez says that on the day of the inauguration of the Valley (April 1, 1959), when he was touring the basilica with Franco, he said to him, pointing to the place he had chosen for his tomb: "Well, Méndez, and at the time, I was here, eh?" "It's done, my general," Méndez replied. «"Ah, well, well", and the matter was never talked about again... And when he died and so on, everything was already prepared," Méndez recalled.[154][162].
According to Daniel Sueiro, "other people, those close to him and some close to him, also knew long ago about Franco's decision to be buried, when his time came, in the Valley of the Fallen."[163] The abbot of the monastery Fray Justo Pérez de Urbel remembered the following: "One day we were there, going from one place to another, walking together, and he was talking to me about those who could be buried there. "Of course, we are not going to force them, but I think it is an honor. And for me, if they tell me, it would be an honor for me to sleep my last dream here, between the altar and the choir." For his part, Ramón Andrada Pfeiffer, conservative architect of the Valley, stated: «That was one thing that we always knew. He wanted to bury himself there. I personally never heard him say it, because I was not concerned with it, in the interviews I had with the Caudillo, but the people who went to El Pardo or were in close contact always knew that the Caudillo wanted to bury himself there.
However, according to his only daughter Carmen, Franco never stated where he wanted to be buried. Rufo Gamazo Rico"), advisor and personal friend of the president of the government Carlos Arias Navarro, stated the following: «Weeks before Franco's death, President Carlos Arias asked the daughter of the head of state, Carmen Franco Polo, if the family had any predictions about her father's burial place: "None," responded Carmen Franco Polo».[165].
On his fate after Franco's death
According to Zira Box, «certainly, the Valley of the Fallen constitutes one of the most representative and controversial symbols of what Francoism was. The use of reclusive labor for its construction, the exclusive message contained in its stones, and the impossibility of it becoming an active symbol of the reconciliation of the Spanish have made the Valley a topic of continuous debate.
During the first legislature chaired by José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero, and within the actions related to the approval of the Historical Memory Law, the future destiny of the Valley of the Fallen was raised. Various left-wing political parties proposed using this monument as a reminder of the actions of the Francoist side during the Civil War and the Spanish dictatorship, and to remember that it was built by political prisoners.
In 2006, the report prepared by the Maltese Labor Party Leo Brincat (which some media have cited as Brincat Report),[172] and approved by the Parliamentary Assembly of the Council of Europe, condemned what happened in terms of human rights in Spain during the Franco dictatorship. This report included, among other recommended proposals, a permanent educational exhibition in the underground basilica of the Valley of the Fallen explaining that it was built by prisoners. This proposal was rejected by some political parties on the Spanish right, as well as by pressure groups such as the Catholic Church, who affirm that the monument is above all a temple, not a museum, which houses the remains of dead people from both sides of the war,[173] arguing that this proposal only has political purposes.
On October 16, 2007, the Constitutional Commission of Congress approved the Historical Memory Law project, which includes an article referring to the Valley of the Fallen. This article, approved with the support of all political parties, is a new regulation to depoliticize the Valley, turning it exclusively into a place of religious worship.[174] Thus, the foundation managing the Valley of the Fallen will have among its objectives the honoring of the memory of all those who fell in the Civil War and in the subsequent almost 40 years of political repression. Furthermore, events of a political nature or those extolling the Civil War, its protagonists or Francoism may not be carried out anywhere on the premises.[175][176].
On November 29, 2011, the commission appointed for this purpose delivered its report on the future of the Valley of the Fallen to the Government of José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero. In it, the commission was in favor of maintaining the name of Valley of the Fallen but giving a new meaning to the monument so that it would also commemorate the dead of the Republican side.[143].
Regarding those buried there, it has been confirmed that it would be difficult to identify the remains, since they come from diverse origins on both fronts.[177] The Benedictine prior initially refused to comply with a firm sentence to allow the remains to be analyzed, because his position does not depend directly on the State or the Spanish Church.[178].
The Democratic Memory Law: name change and resignation project
Article 54 of the Democratic Memory Law of October 2022 is specifically dedicated to the Valley of the Fallen. It establishes the following:[3].
In application of article 54.1 of the Democratic Memory Law, the Council of Ministers agreed on June 11, 2024 to create the Interministerial Commission for the resignation of the Cuelgamuros Valley. On January 28, 2025, the Commission agreed that the Ministry of Housing and Urban Agenda would be in charge of "calling for an international competition of ideas and subsequently awarding the drafting of the project as well as the project management." On May 10, the BOE published the "Agreement between the Ministry of Housing and Urban Agenda, the Ministry of Territorial Policy and Democratic Memory and the Foundation of the Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos to promote the Cuelgamuros Memorial architecture competition" signed on March 28. The Convention stated that "the competition seeks to transform the complex into a place of memory, recognition, commemoration and tribute to all the victims of the Spanish Civil War, in line with the principles of Democratic Memory and through an inclusive approach approved by the most advanced international models that have been developed in recent years, hand in hand with the defense of Human Rights and universal Justice." It also stated that "the tender will respect the terms established in the Agreement signed on March 4, 2025 between the representatives of the Catholic Church and the Government of Spain represented by the Minister of the Presidency, Justice and Relations with the Cortes, having transferred the agreed terms to the specifications that govern the tender."[184].
The agreement reached on March 4, 2025 between the government of Spain, represented by the Minister of the Presidency Félix Bolaños, and the Vatican to which the Agreement referred included the maintenance of the Benedictine community, which contradicted what the government had maintained during the previous five years during which it had defended that the departure of the monks was an essential condition to achieve "resignification." Sources from the Ministry of the Presidency assured El País that "there was no alternative" and pointed out as "counterparts" the acceptance by the Catholic Church of the "resignification" of the complex (which implies that it consents to the introduction of modifications to the basilica, but "respecting the liturgical criteria and the purpose for which it was erected") and the replacement of the prior, Santiago Cantera, along with the departure of two other pro-Franco monks. The agreement also includes a member of the Church participating in the nine-member "independent jury" that chooses the best project in an international ideas competition. According to sources from the Ministry of Territorial Administration and Democratic Memory to , the Holocaust Monument in Berlin has been taken as models for the "resignification"; the Peace and Justice Monument in Montgomery, Alabama; the Center for Memory, Peace and Reconciliation, in Bogotá; the Memorial to the victims of violence in Mexico in Chapultepec, Mexico City; and the Museum of Memory and Human Rights in Santiago de Chile.[185].
Description
En el complejo se hallan una abadía benedictina "Benedictina (orden)"), la Abadía de la Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos, una hospedería y una basílica, todo ello dominado por una gran cruz.
En la decoración de la basílica tomaron parte, en estrecha colaboración con su arquitecto, algunos de los artistas españoles más importantes del momento, de diversa ideología política. Su revestimiento interno es austero: el pavimento, de mármol y granito pulidos, refleja la iluminación; los muros están forrados de cantería de granito; la bóveda de la nave lleva los tres grandes arcos fajones forrados de sillería que dejan, entre uno y otro, tramos, a su vez divididos por otros arcos, formando casetones con su interior de piedra irregular, simulando la propia del risco.
Entrance to the Valley
The sober entrance door consists of three sections. The central one is made up of two pillars that frame a fence whose crest shows, on a double-headed eagle, the Cross of the Valley and, below it, the coat of arms of Spain, on the left the coat of arms of Franco (founder of the monument) and on the right the shield of the Order of Saint Benedict.[187] Attached to both sides of this doorway are two other smaller doors through which tourist vehicles pass.
A road gradually ascends through areas that were once repopulated mainly with pines, as well as cypresses, firs, spruces, junipers, elms, poplars, chestnuts, etc.
The "Juanelos"
On the route the visitor encounters four large cylindrical monoliths (two on each side of the road on a stepped pedestal) as a portico: these are the so-called "Juanelos", carved in granite and 11.50 meters high and 1.50 meters in diameter each. They come from the quarries of Sonseca and Nambroca in the province of Toledo, and were carved in the 19th century, during the reign of Philip II, to be used by the Italian engineer living in Toledo, Juanelo Turriano, at the mill known as Artificio de Juanelo, to lift water from the Tagus River to the city of Toledo, and which were never taken to their destination. About them there was a popular song that said (The songs of Juanelo are already walking, they will arrive in Toledo, God knows when).
monumental cross
The cross has a height of 150 meters, of which 25 correspond to the base with the four evangelists (each 18 meters high) and their symbols or tetramorphs - Juan and the Eagle, Lucas and the Bull, Marcos and the Lion and Mateo and the Winged Man - made by Juan de Ávalos; 17 meters to the intermediate body with the cardinal virtues: prudence, justice, fortitude "Fortitude (Christianity)") and temperance; and 108 to the shaft of the cross. If we add to this the height of the Nava cliff used as a rock pedestal, another 150 meters would have to be added. The length of the arms is 46.40 m; Two passenger vehicles could cross paths in its interior corridors.[5].
The structure of the complex was made of reinforced concrete reinforced with a metal frame and covered with carved quarry and berrugo masonry. The construction was done without scaffolding, raising the building from within, as if it were a chimney; At the same time they were going up the stairs and the freight elevator, where there is now an elevator, inside. The arms, with a north-south orientation, were also made without scaffolding, hanging a platform from the iron frame as it was being assembled.
As for its delineation, it is achieved by the penetration of rectangular prisms that form a Greek cross in the cross section, with a soft raised collar that cushions the outer edge of the intersection of the two prisms. It is considered the highest Christian cross in the world, visible from more than 40 kilometers away.[13].
Funicular
There is a funicular (closed since 2009)[188] that ascends to the base of the cross in a southeast-north direction, starting from a height of 1,258 m until reaching 1,383 m and, therefore, overcomes 125 m of difference in altitude in a route of 277.6 m. It has a minimum slope of 43.44% and a maximum of 53.1%.[189].
Likewise, you can ascend to the cross by a path with a ramp and stairs that starts from the back side of Cerro de la Nava. There is also a restricted-use elevator that allows access to the cross through the interior of the mountain.
Staircase and esplanade
From the road you ascend to the large esplanade by a staircase 100 meters wide and divided into two sections, each with ten steps. It is set on live rock and ends in the large esplanade, which has an area of 30,600 square meters. Its pavement forms a cross in plan that leaves, in the four corners, squares paved with irregularly shaped stones whose joints are outlined with trefoil and king-gras. A wide and strong parapet frames this central part of the esplanade and separates it from two other sides to which you descend by stairs, also granite. Another staircase, with fifteen steps and 63 meters wide, leads to the door of the crypt.
Basilica
The initial plans for the underground basilica excavated in the Risco de la Nava were made by the first architect, Pedro Muguruza, but Diego Méndez completed them and carried out certain modifications to the original project.
It is accessed through a large front esplanade in which the material extracted from the mountain was used. The door is flanked by two symmetrical wings that form a semicircular porticoed exedra. In Muguruza's initial project, the semicircular arches were closed and decorated in stone, but Diego Méndez decided to open them and dismantle part of the cliff to do so, with the corresponding problems; thus gave rise to a true gallery.
The semicircular arches, the interior with padded voussoir, inscribed in a box of simple lines, form the large doorway. The door of the temple, 10.40 meters high by 5.80 meters wide, is made of bronze and is the work of Fernando Cruz Solís, first prize in the Competition held for this purpose at the end of 1956. It represents the fifteen mysteries of the rosary "Rosary (Catholicism)") and an apostolate.
At the top of the façade, and on its cornice, you can see the sculptural group called La Piedad, the work of Juan de Ávalos, made of stone from Calatorao (province of Zaragoza). It measures 5 meters high and 12 meters long.
The total length of the crypt is 262 meters and reaches its maximum height in the transept, where it reaches 41 meters. This crypt, in order of entry, includes: vestibule, atrium, intermediate space, large nave "Nave (architecture)") and transept "Cruise (architecture)"). Although each of the aforementioned rooms has its own decoration and layout, there is an aesthetic and stylistic harmony between all of them.
The vestibule, the atrium and the intermediate space each have an area of 11 meters wide and the height of their vaults is 11 meters. The height in the large nave is 22 meters. As for its decoration, it is made up of the same construction elements. As a consequence, the vestibule forms four wide pilasters joined by semicircular transverse arches and vaults with lunettes corresponding to the side arches. A richer decoration is used in the atrium, based on pilasters on a slope with a vault and semicircular transverse arches, adorning these with a simple casement.
In the intermediate space, covered by a groin vault, two gigantic archangels, the work of Carlos Ferreira, are housed in two large niches, in a vigilant and meditative attitude, guarding the entrance. They have their wings raised and rest their arms, stretched forward, on the hilt of the sword stuck in the plinths. According to the founder's testimony, they are made with bronze from cannons used during the war, as a symbol that the war had ended. The descent of ten steps, a canonical number in the symbology of the monument, leads to the gate.
This delimits and gives access to the place of worship itself. It is the work of José Espídos (also the author of the appliqués on the large nave). The elaborate grille, with sober polychrome, is inspired by the Plateresque, of great tradition in Spanish cathedrals and churches. It consists of three perfectly defined bodies, whose separation is marked by four buttresses: two attached to the walls and another two that act as jambs for the central door set. In the aforementioned buttresses, from left to right and from top to bottom, figures of forty saints appear attached to the body of the fence. A crest formed by angels, at the ends, and insignia of heroes and martyrs as the finishing touch to the central buttresses, accompanies the figure of Saint James the Apostle, patron saint of Spain, who appears in the center, crowned by a cross and angels. The spaces between the buttresses are covered by seven bars on each side and eighteen on the door leaves.
Abbey of the Holy Cross of the Valley of the Fallen
Erected on an esplanade at the back of the Risco de la Nava, a set of buildings extends consisting of a cloister, rear portico, monastery, novitiate, choir and internal lodging, on the one hand, and external lodging, on the other.
The unique cloister does not show the characteristic quadrangular layout of other monasteries, but is rectangular and is open towards the contemplation of the monumental cross.
In a rectangle 300 meters long and 150 meters wide, bounded by two side galleries with semicircular arches, the aforementioned buildings are framed, all of them made of granite stone and a hipped slate roof.
Next to the abbey is the cemetery of the Benedictine monks, to visit it your permission is required. The basilica and the abbey are connected through a private access that has a large monumental bronze door, the work of Damián Villar González.
On May 27, 1958, Pope Pius
On the feast of the Triumph of the Holy Cross, on July 17, 1958, twenty monks arrived from Silos undertook the beginning of the new Benedictine community in the Valley.
In popular culture
• - In 1963, producer Samuel Bronston produced a documentary about the monument that was presented at the Odeon Theater in London on December 2, with music by Cristóbal Halffter. The rights were donated to the Board of Trustees of the Basilica of the Holy Cross of Valle de los Caídos.
• - The documentary film about the Spanish Transition After... (You cannot be left alone, first part,[191] and Tied and well tied, second part[192]), presents extensive footage shot at the monument during Franco's funeral (1975) and during the celebration of 20-N in 1980, which was attended by Carmen Polo, his widow.
• - In Graham Greene's 1982 novel Monsignor Quixote (Monsignor Quixote) uses a visit to the Valley to illustrate the political and social attitudes of Franco's government and the state of his tomb in modern Spain.
• - In the film Wait for me in heaven (1988), by Antonio Mercero, the protagonist (Pepe Soriano) is so similar to Franco that he is forced to be his double on multiple occasions, even in his grave. Chus Lampreave, his wife, becomes a Franco follower so she can see her husband in the Valley.
• - The Barbarian Years, a Spanish film directed by Fernando Colomo, released on September 11, 1998 and based on the novel Other Men by Manuel Lamana, narrates the escape of the latter and Nicolás Sánchez-Albornoz from the Valley of the Fallen work camp.
• - The Valley of the Fallen appears in Richard Morgan's 2002 novel Altered Carbon, where it is used as a base of operations for one of the main antagonists, Reileen Kawahara.
• - The site also appears in the Spanish black comedy-horror film Balada triste de trumpeta (2010) directed by Álex de la Iglesia, where the protagonists have a fight at the top of the cross.
• - In 2013, the documentary All'ombra della croce (In the shadow of the cross)[193] directed by the Italian Alessandro Pugno was released in Spain, arousing controversy and interest in the national and international media.[194] The film tells the hidden story of the children of the choir, who sing mass every day in the Abbey of the Valley. The children live in a boarding school where they receive a religious education.[195] The film has been awarded the best documentary award at the Malaga Spanish Film Festival.
• - In the novel The Three Weddings of Manolita (2014), by Almudena Grandes (the third installment of his Episodes of an Endless War) the construction of the Valley of the Fallen is recreated from the point of view of a prisoner in the penal camp.[196].
• - The monument is a setting for Dan Brown's novel, Inception "Inception (Dan Brown novel)") (2017).
• - In May 2021, the National Library of Spain recovered more than 400 books deposited in the Valley of the Fallen in 1961.[197].
• - Valley of the Fallen Funicular.
• - Imperial Route of the Community of Madrid.
• - Cuelgamuros Valley.
• - Annex: Tallest statues in the world.
• - Exhumation of Francisco Franco.
• - Exhumations of the Valley of the Fallen.
• - Architecture of Francoism.
• - Olmeda, Fernando: The Valley of the Fallen. A memory of Spain (2009). ISBN 978-84-8307-874-7.
• - Sueiro, Daniel: The true story of the Valley of the Fallen (1976). ISBN 84-7380-215-2.
• - Artículos en Wikinoticias: Primera orden para la exhumación de ocho republicanos en el Valle de los Caídos.
• - Wikimedia Commons alberga una categoría multimedia sobre Valle de los Caídos.
• - Abadía de la Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos. Página oficial.
• - Patrimonio Nacional — Abadía Benedictina de la Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos. Patrimonio Nacional.
• - Asociación para la Defensa del Valle de los Caídos.
• - Informe de la Comisión de expertos para el futuro del Valle de los Caídos, 29 de noviembre de 2011. Memoria Histórica. Gobierno de España.
• - Los "Juanelos" y su traslado al Valle de los Caídos.
• - Conversaciones íntimas con Juan de Ávalos El Mundo. 2001.
• - Listado enterrados Valle de los Caídos.
• - Historia del Valle de los Caídos.
• - El sueño del dictador.
Videos
• - The sculptor Juan de Ávalos tells his experience.
• - The Valley of the Fallen: The Truth of History.
• - The truth about the prisoners of the Valley of the Fallen.
• - The key - The Valley of the Fallen - Nov 18, 1983 Debate around the history and construction of the Valley of the Fallen. Moderated by José Luis Balbín, with the participation of Gregorio Peces-Barba del Brío, Pedro Pérez Ramírez and Damián Rabal (workers in the construction of the monument), Juan de Ávalos (author of the sculptures) and Daniel Sueiro (author of the book The Valley of the Fallen: the secrets of the Franco crypt).
• - Documentary about the life of the Benedictines of the Abbey of the Valley of the Fallen In the shadow of the cross by Alessandro Pugno (2012).
[3] ↑ a b c Jefatura del Estado. «Ley 20/2022, de 19 de octubre, de Memoria Democrática». Boletín Oficial del Estado. España. Artículo 54. Valle de los Caídos. «1. Se modifica la denominación del «Valle de los Caídos», para ser denominado Valle de Cuelgamuros…».: https://www.boe.es/eli/es/l/2022/10/19/20
[25] ↑ «Real Decreto-ley 10/2018, de 24 de agosto, por el que se modifica la Ley 52/2007, de 26 de diciembre, por la que se reconocen y amplían derechos y se establecen medidas en favor de quienes padecieron persecución o violencia durante la Guerra Civil y la Dictadura». Boletín Oficial del Estado (206). 25 de agosto de 2018. «La presencia en el recinto de los restos mortales de Francisco Franco dificulta el cumplimiento efectivo del mandato legal de no exaltación del franquismo y el propósito de rendir homenaje a todas las víctimas de la contienda. El presente real decreto-ley pretende poner fin a esta situación […]».: https://www.boe.es/buscar/act.php?id=BOE-A-2018-11836#au
[30] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 189. "Más que de una clara muestra del nacionalcatolicismo del que en parte bebía el régimen, el Valle de los Caídos deba interpretarse como el fruto de la megalomanía de aquel que lo ideó y diseñó para su propia gloria".
[31] ↑ a b Box, 2010, p. 122.
[32] ↑ Rodrigo, 2008, p. 200.
[33] ↑ a b Box, 2010, p. 179.
[34] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 122-123.
[35] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 178.
[36] ↑ a b Box, 2010, p. 138; 142.
[37] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 23.
[38] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 128-132.
[39] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 133-134.
[40] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 151.
[41] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 163-164; 148.
[42] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 160.
[43] ↑ De Riquer, 2010, p. 121.
[44] ↑ Preston, 2011, p. 292.
[45] ↑ Preston, 2011, p. 606.
[46] ↑ De Riquer, 2010, p. 124.
[47] ↑ Preston, 2011, p. 615-616.
[48] ↑ Preston, 2011, p. 616.
[49] ↑ Casanova, 2015, p. 67.
[50] ↑ Casanova, 2015, p. 60; 67.
[51] ↑ Preston, 2011, p. 291. ”Para todas las familias, la muerte de un ser querido sin el debido entierro y funeral fue traumática; poder visitar una tumba, dejar flores o meditar contribuye a sobrellevar la pérdida, pero esos detalles esenciales les fueron negados a casi todas las familias de los asesinados en la represión [del bando sublevado]. Ver arrebatada la dignidad del difunto causaba un hondo pesar. Sin embargo, en las zonas de profunda raigambre católica, como Castilla y Navarra, la experiencia se vivió aún con mayor dolor. […] Todo ese consuelo espiritual quedó vedado a las familias católicas de los asesinados en la represión. Para todos ellos, católicos o no, el luto y el apoyo de la comunidad fueron sustituidos por el insulto, la humillación, las amenazas y las penurias económicas”.
[56] ↑ a b «Decreto de 1 de abril de 1940 disponiendo se alcen Basílica, Monasterio y Cuartel de Juventudes, en la finca situada en las vertientes de la Sierra del Guadarrama (El Escorial), conocida por Cuelga-muros, para perpetuar la memoria de los caídos en nuestra Gloriosa Cruzada». Boletín Oficial del Estado núm. 93, de 1 de abril de 1940: 2240. ISSN 0212-033X.: https://www.boe.es/datos/pdfs/BOE/1940/093/A02240-02240.pdf
[57] ↑ Muñoz Cosme, 2009, p. 94.
[58] ↑ Chías Navarro, 2015, pp. 174-175.
[59] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. Prólogo. "El decreto de creación del monumento, de 1.º de abril de 1940, no deja lugar a dudas de que pretendía homenajear y recordar a 'los caídos por Dios y por la Patria', a los héroes y mártires de la gloriosa Cruzada, o sea, a los vencedores".
[60] ↑ a b c Preston, 1998, p. 438.
[61] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 187-188.
[62] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 27-28.
[63] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 28.
[64] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 187. "Franco pensó en el Valle de los Caídos mucho antes de terminar la guerra. Pensó en algo que recordase la Cruzada y que fuese, como él decía, monasterio y enterramiento de aquellos que iban a morir. Ya antes de terminar la Cruzada le oí yo decir eso".
[65] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 24.
[66] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 21-22.
[67] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 24-25.
[68] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 187.
[69] ↑ Preston, 1998, p. 438-439. ”Resulta una sorprendente muestra de la seguridad de Franco en sí mismo, por no decir complacencia, que a principios de 1940 hallase tiempo para hacer excursiones al campo en busca de un emplazamiento para su monumento”.
[70] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 31. "Pedro Muguruza... manifestaba humildemente el día de la explosión del barreno simbólico que, aun siendo él el autor de esos planos, 'las ideas le habían sido expuestas directamente por S. E. el jefe del Estado' ".
[71] ↑ Preston, 1998, p. 439; 787.
[72] ↑ a b Preston, 1998, p. 787.
[73] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 116; 127. "En otra de sus visitas, al llegar ante la nave principal de la basílica, se paró de pronto, como sorprendido. Estaban ya las paredes revestidas y todo el interior despejado. "A esto le faltan dimensiones —dijo—. Esto da la sensación de que entramos en un túnel. Aquí hay que profundizar metro y medio en el suelo". Sería el rebaje que hoy puede contemplarse".
[74] ↑ a b c Preston, 1998, p. 439.
[75] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 32.
[76] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 37.
[77] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 192-193.
[78] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 68.
[79] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 83.
[80] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 117-118.
[81] ↑ a b Box, 2010, p. 188-189.
[82] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 129-130.
[83] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 174-175.
[84] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 122.
[85] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 147-149.
[86] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 149.
[87] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 182-185.
[88] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 181.
[89] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 191-192.
[90] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 182-184.
[91] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 187-189. "El último día del año 1956 me llama [Franco] y me dice: 'Lo que tenía que decirle es que busque Vd. una comunidad para el Valle de los Caídos'. [...] Yo en realidad no tenía gran ambición de ser abad, pero a Franco le gustaba que fuese yo, y como lo que Franco quería se hacía...".
[97] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 266-267. "Los presos tardan en venir, llegarían hacia el 42. Por lo menos dos años estuvimos allí con gente de los pueblos de alrededor".
[114] ↑ Rafael Torres, «Esclavos de Franco». Ed. Oberón 2000.
[115] ↑ Diego Méndez, El Valle de los Caídos. Idea, proyecto y construcción, Abadía de la Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos, 2009 (1.ª ed. 1982), p. 273. ISBN 84-85993-01-2.
[118] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 103. "Muchos penados se quedaban a trabajar en Cuelgamuros aún después de obtener la libertad provisional, por no tener a dónde ir o no querer exponerse a nuevas denuncias ni más averiguaciones".
[147] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 13-14. "Los monjes benedictinos, allí residentes, iban anotando las referencias de los muertos de una forma muy somera e incompleta, en los libros de registro de entradas. Hubo temporadas de auténtica avalancha, de ingresos masivos de restos, en los que los monjes prácticamente no daban abasto para ir registrando las cajas con huesos. En los años 60 siguieron llegando muchas cajas".
[153] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 209-210. "Millares de afiliados al Movimiento vinieron en autocares, con sus bolsas de comida, desde todas las provincias españolas, y la Delegación de Trabajo de Madrid publicó una nota oficial recordando a las empresas su obligación de conceder permiso a los empleados que quisieran sumarse a la celebración...".
[173] ↑ El Valle, símbolo de reconciliación: «Es el lugar símbolo con que se quiso sellar aquella hora de España y fue una cruz y un altar,... lo que ha unido la sangre de Dios no la separe el hombre,... no se construye una sociedad amputando previamente sus raíces o procediendo a invertir sus fundamentos históricos».
[174] ↑ Artículo 16 del informe de la ponencia de la ley en la Comisión Constitucional:
[184] ↑ Resolución de 5 de mayo de 2025, de la Subsecretaría, por la que se publica el Convenio entre el Ministerio de Vivienda y Agenda Urbana, el Ministerio de Política Territorial y Memoria Democrática y la Fundación de la Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos, para el impulso del concurso de arquitectura del Memorial de Cuelgamuros. «BOE» núm. 113, de 10 de mayo de 2025, páginas 61367 a 61374.: https://www.boe.es/diario_boe/txt.php?id=BOE-A-2025-9180
In 2012, a partial restoration was completed.[22] In 2018, visits grew by 103% and reached more than 4,000 per weekend on the occasion of the announcement of the then possible exhumation of Franco.[23] The disinterment was finally carried out on October 24, 2019. The remains of the former head of state were transferred to the Mingorrubio cemetery, along with those of his widow Carmen Polo, thus fulfilling Franco's wish to be buried with his wife outside the monument[24] and an ad hoc reform of the Historical Memory Law approved in 2018 with the exclusive purpose of exhumation.[25][26].
José Antonio Primo de Rivera was also exhumed in 2023 at the request of his family,[27] whose remains currently rest in the San Isidro cemetery, along with his relatives.
Location
The monument is located in the Cuelgamuros valley, at the southern end of the Guadarrama mountain range. Like the rest of the mountain range, the valley environment is made up of large granite formations, and its predominant vegetation is coniferous forests, although oaks, some elms and, among the shrubs, rockrose, rosemary and thyme also stand out. It is flanked by several hills and is crossed by some streams; one of them, the Boquerón Chico"), has a dam and supplies water to the monastery.
It is located in the municipality of San Lorenzo de El Escorial. The enclosure, with its buildings, constitutes a fenced and walled property of 1,365 hectares, which limits to the north with the municipality of Guadarrama "Guadarrama (Madrid)") and to the south with the Guatel stream, the Solana estate and the La Jurisdicción mountain. The road from El Escorial to Guadarrama and the La Solana farm runs to the east, and to the west the municipalities of Peguerinos and Santa María de la Alameda. Its altitude is between 985 and 1758 meters above sea level; The latter belongs to the Risco de los Abantos.
In the Property Registry of the middle of the century the property appears registered with the name Pinar de Cuelga Moros, which becomes Cuelgamuros in the registration registered in 1875 and in all subsequent ones. Its last owner before the forced expropriation by the State was Gabriel Padierna de Villapadierna"), Marquis of Muñiz. The amount of the expropriation, carried out by emergency means, was 653,483.76 pesetas. Its altitude is between 985 and 1,758 meters above sea level. This last maximum elevation corresponds to the Risco de Abantos, while the Risco de la Nava, on which the great cross would be built, is located around 1,400 meters. The idea was that the monument would be visible from Madrid on clear days.[28].
Cuelgamuros is located in the Guadarrama mountain range and is almost equidistant from Madrid (58 km), Ávila (55 km) and Segovia (50 km). The Valley of the Fallen can only be accessed through the M-527 highway.
History
Contenido
Nada más terminar la guerra civil la geografía española se llenó de cruces y de monumentos a los caídos del bando nacional pero «el proyecto más ambicioso del régimen destinado a conmemorar la Victoria y a honrar a los perecidos franquistas fue, sin ningún asomo de duda, el colosal Valle de los Caídos».[29] Tras su inauguración en 1959 se convirtió en uno de los símbolos del franquismo, con la «clara intención de que el régimen contase con un gran monumento que representase todo aquello en lo que se sustentaba», «un recordatorio de la Victoria y de la sangre derramada por ella». Por otro lado, fue el proyecto personal del Generalísimo Franco.[30].
Background: Franco's cult of those "fallen for God and for Spain"
In the "symbolic construction" of Francoism, as Zira Box has called it, the war from which it had emerged was the unequivocal reference and especially "everything that had to do with the rhetoric and ritual around the fallen."[31] An assessment shared by the historian Javier Rodrigo for whom "of the policies focused on the articulation and achievement of an active consensus around the Regime, its Caudillo and the values it represented, none It had, possibly, as much daily importance ―apart from welfare policies― as the cult of the memory of the fallen.
In Franco's imagination "the blood shed by those who fell in the war was the sowing whose harvest was reaped with the New Spain of Victory."[31] This is what Franco himself recalled in a speech given in Asturias in 1946: "There is no redemption without blood, and blessed a thousand times is the blood that has brought us our redemption." Ernesto Giménez Caballero told General Moscardó in May 1939: «Franco's soldiers! Anointed with glory and Empire! Only heroic death becomes fruitful life. Only blood moves History. Only the Fallen raised Spain upwards."[34] Three days after the war ended, Generalissimo Franco declared through General Saliquet that "in the moments when with the final victory we reap the fruits of so much sacrifice and heroism, my heart is with the combatants of Spain, and my memory, with the fallen forever in their service."[35].
Indeed, as Zira Box has highlighted, "the Spanish dictatorship spared no effort in granting a position of honor to those who had fallen for it." The country was filled with monuments and crosses raised in his honor and massive funerals, masses, demonstrations and parades were held in his memory. winners».[37].
Franco's rhetoric and ritual around the fallen came fundamentally from the Spanish Falange, whose young "fallen" were progressively exalted and sacralized - its leader José Antonio Primo de Rivera continually insisted on the idea of death as an act of service and sacrifice. At the burial of the "fallen quarter" of the Falange in early 1934, the ritual of shouting "Present!" after pronouncing the name of the dead "comrade" - a ritual that the Falangists had taken from the Italian fascists -.[38] Upon the first anniversary of the founding of the Falange on October 29, 1934, that date was established as the party's Memorial Day and at all funerals for the dead militants the Prayer for the dead of the Falange composed by Rafael Sánchez would be read Macas.[39] After General Franco promulgated the Decree of Unification between the Falange and the Traditionalist Communion in April 1937, the fallen would no longer be for the "National-Syndicalist Revolution" or for Spain as it was said in the Falangist rituals or "for God" or for Spain as it was said in the Carlists - who had their own commemoration of their dead, the Feast of the Martyrs of Tradition, created in 1895 and which was celebrated every March 10―[40] but "for God, for Spain and for its national-syndicalist revolution" and later according to the formula that ended up being imposed: "for God and for Spain."[36].
Shortly after the promulgation of the decree of November 16, 1938, which established November 20 of each year as a day of national mourning, in commemoration of the date on which José Antonio Primo de Rivera was shot - and in which, among other commemorative measures, it was announced that a monument "of adequate importance to the honors of the commemoration" would be erected -, the Political Board of the single party FET and of The JONS ordered that all churches display on their walls commemorative plaques with the list of those "fallen for God and for the Country" of each locality headed with the name of José Antonio Primo de Rivera.[41] As Zira Box has highlighted, "if there was a fall par excellence within the New Francoist State, it was undoubtedly José Antonio."[42].
As soon as the war ended, monuments to the fallen of the "national side" were erected everywhere with the clear political intention of affirming the new Franco regime whose idea of Spain did not include those of the defeated side (who were part of the anti-Spain, according to the rhetoric of the Franco regime).[33] According to Borja de Riquer, "there was no interest in politically integrating the defeated, nor in seeking a reconciliation, they only wanted to destroy or submit."[43] Already at the beginning of the civil war, General Mola had warned: "No surrender or embrace of Vergara, nor the Zanjón pacts, nor anything that is not an overwhelming and definitive victory."[44] On December 31, 1938, at the beginning of the offensive in Catalonia, General Franco warned in an interview with Manuel Aznar that there would be neither amnesty nor reconciliation for the Republicans. Only punishment and repentance would open the door to their "redemption", exclusively for those who were not "hardened criminals", for whom only death awaited them.[45]
Once the war was over, the number two of the regime, Ramón Serrano Suñer denied that there could be any type of reconciliation because the defeated were an "irredeemable, unforgivable and criminal enemy" on whom "the sentence of irrevocable exclusion must fall, without which the very existence of the Homeland would be at risk." pacts with the anti-Spanish revolution, cannot be eradicated in a day, and flutters in the depths of many consciences," he said on May 19, 1939, the day of the Victory Parade - and that there would be no amnesty or reconciliation either.[47] This was stated in his New Year's Eve message of 1939, "the Year of Victory", when he ruled out the "monstrous and suicidal amnesties, which contain more of swindling than forgiveness", and instead advocated for the defeated the "redemption of the penalty through work, repentance and penance" because "whoever thinks otherwise, either sins through unconsciousness or betrayal." "There are so many damages caused to the Homeland, so serious the damage caused to families and morale, so many victims who demand justice, that no honest Spaniard, no conscious being can deviate from these painful duties," he added.[48] So Franco ordered the launch of the "General Cause on Red Domination in Spain" in order to punish "the criminal acts committed throughout the national territory during Red Domination."[49] General Cause which, according to Julián Casanova, confirmed "the social division between winners and losers, 'patriots and traitors', 'nationals and reds'".[50] For the defeated, "the mourning and support of the community were replaced by insult, humiliation, threats and economic hardships."[51].
There were so many initiatives to erect monuments to the fallen that an order was promulgated on August 7, 1939 to unify their style and meaning. "The political purposes that the monuments to the dead condensed were multiple: remembering Victory as the founding myth of the regime, praising the victors, subduing the defeated, showing the people some of the foundations of the new political system (such as peace, concord, solidity...) or exalting the power of those who, having won with arms, paid tribute to their achievements to the deceased."[52].
According to the order, all projects had to be approved by the Undersecretariat of Press and Propaganda dependent on the Ministry of the Interior following a technical and artistic report from the General Directorate of Architecture, directed by Pedro Muguruza ―who would be the first architect of the Valley of the Fallen―, and by the Plastics Department of the General Directorate of Propaganda, directed by the Falangist poster artist Juan Cabanas, under the orders of also Falangist Dionisio Ridruejo. However, after the crisis of May 1941, the Press and Propaganda services became dependent on the Vice Secretary of Popular Education, directed by the monarchist and Catholic Gabriel Arias-Salgado. The guidelines that emanated from these organizations for the erection of monuments to the fallen were based on clear principles - "sobriety, austerity, classicism, simplicity and decorum, characteristics that were part of the architectural ideal of the Spanish fascists" - and all of them had to be crowned by the cross as the main element of the monument - "a decorous, proportionate cross that was integrated within the monumental complex", explains Zira Box - to which They could accompany allegorical figures such as the eagle or the laurel or symbols of the new regime such as the yoke and arrows, the Francoist shield or the Vítor "Vítor (symbol)"). In fact, many projects were rejected for not complying with these principles.[53] On the other hand, "Memorial Day", October 29, was chosen to inaugurate the plaques and monuments.[29].
Creation
As a monument referring to the Civil War, the Valley of the Fallen was conceived by Franco with the proclaimed purpose of honoring and burying those who fell fighting alongside him in the "Glorious Crusade."[54][55][56] It was in that sense a monument of exaltation of the Franco dictatorship,[57] which became so identified with the figure of the dictator that generations will pass before he loses his "shocking symbology” and becomes another milestone.[58].
In the preamble of the decree signed by Franco on April 1, 1940, the first anniversary of his Victory in the civil war, which ordered its construction, its purpose was explained:[56].
The preamble of the Decree made it very clear that the monument was going to honor and commemorate "those who fell in the path of God and Country", "the heroes and martyrs of the Crusade", that is, the fallen of the winning side in the civil war.[59].
The decree creating what would be called the Valley of the Fallen - whose preamble, according to Paul Preston, "clearly revealed Franco's megalomaniac ideas about his place in history" -[60] was promulgated by Franco on the day of the first anniversary of his victory in the Crusade. That same day the second "Victory Parade" was held in Madrid (the first had taken place the previous year, a month and a half after the war ended) and at noon a victory lunch was held in the Palacio de Oriente attended by the government, the heads of the single party, generals and members of the diplomatic corps - in fact Mrs. Carmen Polo sat between the ambassadors of her husband's two great allies, fascist Italy and Nazi Germany.[60] After eating All attendees led by Caudillo himself were taken in official cars to the Cuelgamuros estate - on the slopes of the Sierra de Guadarrama, near El Escorial -, the place where the "Basilica, Monastery and Youth Barracks" were going to be built, as stated in article 1 of the decree. After General Franco reviewed a company that honored him, Colonel Valentín Galarza, Undersecretary of the Presidency of the Government, read the decree. To the three successive shouts of "Spain!" launched by Franco, the attendees responded with shouts of "One! Great!" and Free! The first charge of dynamite then exploded, after which Franco himself explained the grandeur of the project he had in mind. Right next to him were his wife, Rafael Sánchez Mazas, Ramón Serrano Suñer and the architect Pedro Muguruza.[60][61][62] The newspaper ABC "ABC (newspaper)") published the next day that the monument "will have the grandeur that the idea imposes and that the happy location chosen demands, so that the pilgrimages of believing patriots can meet in one of the mountains of the central system."[63].
The Valley of the Fallen was a personal project of Franco's that he said he had conceived long before the end of the war;[64] as Franco himself confessed to the first mitered abbot of the Valley, Fray Justo Pérez de Urbel: "In reality, it was not about discovering, but rather identifying and locating an image that he had inside," he told him.[29][65] For his part, the architect in charge of the Valley Diego Méndez "Diego Méndez (architect)"), who had worked closely with the , declared shortly before its inauguration that "from the beginning of the war, Franco felt the moral, we could say even physical, need to raise a monument with which to "honor the dead as much as they honored us." According to Méndez, Franco was obsessed with the idea. "Since the spark of the idea burned his restlessness, Franco had a starting point: that the posthumous meeting of the best would be a crypt, in the heart of a mountain..." According to his cousin and secretary Francisco Franco Salgado-Araújo, Franco "may have wanted to imitate Philip II, who built the monastery of El Escorial to commemorate the battle of San Quintín "Battle of San Quintín (1557)").[66].
Construction
On April 3, 1940, the architect in charge of the works, Pedro Muguruza, declared to the press that Franco "has a strong desire for the work on the crypt to be completed within a year, to be inaugurated on April 1, 1941, and within five years, all the buildings, including the gardens that will surround the monument." However, the construction lasted almost twenty years.[92] To try to accelerate the works, on July 31, 1941, more than a year after the project began, the Monument to the Fallen Works Council was created, made up of eight people, including Muguruza himself, and chaired by the Minister of the Interior. In the second paragraph of the decree it was said: "With all the project work carried out to date, and the work to carry it out of the same (sic) already begun in a sensitive manner, the time has come to decisively promote the work to complete its completion in the shortest possible time, creating a management body with the authority and management autonomy necessary to solve all the difficulties that the present circumstances may present in the face of the rapid progress of the work."[93] To defray the costs of the work, the "national subscription" that was established in the 1940 decree, was added in this second decree "those contributions that the Government deems appropriate to allocate to it (sic)."[94].
The San Román company from Madrid (a subsidiary of Agromán, with which it would later be merged) was responsible for drilling the crypt, the Molán company, also from Madrid, was responsible for the construction of the building initially intended as a monastery, and the construction of the access road was carried out by the company founded by the children of a modest Catalan contractor named Banús.[95].
Republican political prisoners who had taken advantage of the Redemption of Penalties for Work were used in the work. There were fourteen deaths and many more injured due to accidents, not counting those who ended up suffering from silicosis.[74] Many of the large construction companies of the Franco era, such as Banús, Agromán or Huarte, started there.[72].
In November 1950, the work on the current residence was completed and the cross project was approved, whose construction began in 1951; In 1952 the esplanade was planned and the expansion of the Crypt opening was approved, whose work continued in 1953 and 1954, when the completion of the transept was planned. The stonework covering of the walls and vault of the crypt, galleries and sacristies began in 1955. In 1956 the choir, the altars and the paving of the crypt were built; Finally, in 1957, the rear portico and the large cloister, the Monastery and the Novitiate were designed, works that were completed in 1958.[96].
The construction of the cross was completed in 1956. It measured almost one hundred and fifty meters high and, standing on a cliff of the same elevation, could be seen from more than fifty kilometers away.[81].
Opening
When the inauguration was approaching, General Franco promulgated the Decree-Law of August 23, 1957, which created the Foundation of the Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos, which would take charge of the monument under the presidency of Franco himself. In the preamble it was recalled that the "National Monument to the Fallen" had been created to "perpetuate the memory of those who fell in the Liberation Crusade, to honor those who gave their lives for God and for the Country" and as a "place of prayer" "for the souls of those who gave their lives for their Faith and for their Country" but then it was said that "the sacred duty of honoring our heroes and our martyrs must always be accompanied by the feeling of forgiveness that the evangelical message imposes" and that "in addition, the decades of peace that have followed the Victory have seen the development of a policy guided by the highest sense of unity and brotherhood among the Spanish" so "this must be, consequently, the Monument to all the Fallen, over whose sacrifice the pacifying arms of the Cross triumph."[138].
Months later, Franco's cousin and secretary Francisco Franco Salgado-Araújo commented to Caudillo that "in some sectors it had been felt bad that both those who fell defending the Crusade and the Reds could be buried in the crypt; that for that, those are fine where they are. Franco responds: «Indeed, it is true that there has been some very correct insinuation about the forgetting of the origin of factions in the Catholic dead. It seems good to me, since there were many on the red side who fought because they believed they were complying with the Republic, and others, because they had been forcibly mobilized. The monument was not made to continue dividing the Spanish into two irreconcilable sides. It was done, and that was always my intention, as a memory of a victory over communism, which was trying to dominate Spain..."[139] However, what Franco said to his cousin is contradicted by the letter he sent shortly after, on March 7, 1959, to José Antonio Primo de Rivera's brothers, Miguel and Pilar, to give permission to bury him in the valley. In the letter Franco states that "the great basilica of the Valley of the Fallen" was "built to house the heroes and martyrs of our Crusade" and speaks of the "preferential place" that corresponds to José Antonio "among our glorious fallen."[140] Only one month after the Valley was inaugurated, in an interview given to the newspaper Pueblo "Pueblo (newspaper)") Franco once again said that the monument was intended to "give honor, prayers and burial to our fallen for God and for Spain."[135] Another proof that contradicts what Franco stated, according to Daniel Sueiro, is that "above the doors that in the crypt give access to those underground tombs, open in the two side chapels of the transept, the chapel of the tomb and the chapel of the Holy Sacrament, these unequivocal signs appear in metal letters: FALLEN for God and for Spain. 1936-1939. R.I.P. [in bold in the original]».[141].
Franco's grave
According to Diego Méndez "Diego Méndez (architect)"), the architect who replaced Pedro Muguruza in 1950 when he fell seriously ill, General Franco, although he never said it publicly, wanted to be buried in the Valley of the Fallen. That is why Méndez made the plans for a tomb located on the other side of the main altar where José Antonio Primo de Rivera, leader of the Spanish Falange, was buried. He previously consulted the idea with Luis Carrero Blanco, Undersecretary of the Presidency: "Hey, Luis, we have to ask the Generalissimo one day to see what idea he has, to see if he wants us to prepare something for him in the Valley." «Well, you talk to him, you talk to him; One day he goes there, because of the works you ask him. «But how am I going to ask him...? "It's very difficult, for me it's very violent." «Of course, you're right, but for me too, don't think...» Anyway, that's how it ended. But I told Carrero: «Look, I'm going to prepare his grave there anyway, just like we did for José Antonio, in the back, there I'm going to prepare the grave for him. What do you think? «It seems very good to me. Yes, prepare it for him, because I am sure that he will want to go to the monument. Ask him, and we will have the opportunity to ask him."[161] Méndez says that on the day of the inauguration of the Valley (April 1, 1959), when he was touring the basilica with Franco, he said to him, pointing to the place he had chosen for his tomb: "Well, Méndez, and at the time, I was here, eh?" "It's done, my general," Méndez replied. «"Ah, well, well", and the matter was never talked about again... And when he died and so on, everything was already prepared," Méndez recalled.[154][162].
According to Daniel Sueiro, "other people, those close to him and some close to him, also knew long ago about Franco's decision to be buried, when his time came, in the Valley of the Fallen."[163] The abbot of the monastery Fray Justo Pérez de Urbel remembered the following: "One day we were there, going from one place to another, walking together, and he was talking to me about those who could be buried there. "Of course, we are not going to force them, but I think it is an honor. And for me, if they tell me, it would be an honor for me to sleep my last dream here, between the altar and the choir." For his part, Ramón Andrada Pfeiffer, conservative architect of the Valley, stated: «That was one thing that we always knew. He wanted to bury himself there. I personally never heard him say it, because I was not concerned with it, in the interviews I had with the Caudillo, but the people who went to El Pardo or were in close contact always knew that the Caudillo wanted to bury himself there.
However, according to his only daughter Carmen, Franco never stated where he wanted to be buried. Rufo Gamazo Rico"), advisor and personal friend of the president of the government Carlos Arias Navarro, stated the following: «Weeks before Franco's death, President Carlos Arias asked the daughter of the head of state, Carmen Franco Polo, if the family had any predictions about her father's burial place: "None," responded Carmen Franco Polo».[165].
On his fate after Franco's death
According to Zira Box, «certainly, the Valley of the Fallen constitutes one of the most representative and controversial symbols of what Francoism was. The use of reclusive labor for its construction, the exclusive message contained in its stones, and the impossibility of it becoming an active symbol of the reconciliation of the Spanish have made the Valley a topic of continuous debate.
During the first legislature chaired by José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero, and within the actions related to the approval of the Historical Memory Law, the future destiny of the Valley of the Fallen was raised. Various left-wing political parties proposed using this monument as a reminder of the actions of the Francoist side during the Civil War and the Spanish dictatorship, and to remember that it was built by political prisoners.
In 2006, the report prepared by the Maltese Labor Party Leo Brincat (which some media have cited as Brincat Report),[172] and approved by the Parliamentary Assembly of the Council of Europe, condemned what happened in terms of human rights in Spain during the Franco dictatorship. This report included, among other recommended proposals, a permanent educational exhibition in the underground basilica of the Valley of the Fallen explaining that it was built by prisoners. This proposal was rejected by some political parties on the Spanish right, as well as by pressure groups such as the Catholic Church, who affirm that the monument is above all a temple, not a museum, which houses the remains of dead people from both sides of the war,[173] arguing that this proposal only has political purposes.
On October 16, 2007, the Constitutional Commission of Congress approved the Historical Memory Law project, which includes an article referring to the Valley of the Fallen. This article, approved with the support of all political parties, is a new regulation to depoliticize the Valley, turning it exclusively into a place of religious worship.[174] Thus, the foundation managing the Valley of the Fallen will have among its objectives the honoring of the memory of all those who fell in the Civil War and in the subsequent almost 40 years of political repression. Furthermore, events of a political nature or those extolling the Civil War, its protagonists or Francoism may not be carried out anywhere on the premises.[175][176].
On November 29, 2011, the commission appointed for this purpose delivered its report on the future of the Valley of the Fallen to the Government of José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero. In it, the commission was in favor of maintaining the name of Valley of the Fallen but giving a new meaning to the monument so that it would also commemorate the dead of the Republican side.[143].
Regarding those buried there, it has been confirmed that it would be difficult to identify the remains, since they come from diverse origins on both fronts.[177] The Benedictine prior initially refused to comply with a firm sentence to allow the remains to be analyzed, because his position does not depend directly on the State or the Spanish Church.[178].
The Democratic Memory Law: name change and resignation project
Article 54 of the Democratic Memory Law of October 2022 is specifically dedicated to the Valley of the Fallen. It establishes the following:[3].
In application of article 54.1 of the Democratic Memory Law, the Council of Ministers agreed on June 11, 2024 to create the Interministerial Commission for the resignation of the Cuelgamuros Valley. On January 28, 2025, the Commission agreed that the Ministry of Housing and Urban Agenda would be in charge of "calling for an international competition of ideas and subsequently awarding the drafting of the project as well as the project management." On May 10, the BOE published the "Agreement between the Ministry of Housing and Urban Agenda, the Ministry of Territorial Policy and Democratic Memory and the Foundation of the Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos to promote the Cuelgamuros Memorial architecture competition" signed on March 28. The Convention stated that "the competition seeks to transform the complex into a place of memory, recognition, commemoration and tribute to all the victims of the Spanish Civil War, in line with the principles of Democratic Memory and through an inclusive approach approved by the most advanced international models that have been developed in recent years, hand in hand with the defense of Human Rights and universal Justice." It also stated that "the tender will respect the terms established in the Agreement signed on March 4, 2025 between the representatives of the Catholic Church and the Government of Spain represented by the Minister of the Presidency, Justice and Relations with the Cortes, having transferred the agreed terms to the specifications that govern the tender."[184].
The agreement reached on March 4, 2025 between the government of Spain, represented by the Minister of the Presidency Félix Bolaños, and the Vatican to which the Agreement referred included the maintenance of the Benedictine community, which contradicted what the government had maintained during the previous five years during which it had defended that the departure of the monks was an essential condition to achieve "resignification." Sources from the Ministry of the Presidency assured El País that "there was no alternative" and pointed out as "counterparts" the acceptance by the Catholic Church of the "resignification" of the complex (which implies that it consents to the introduction of modifications to the basilica, but "respecting the liturgical criteria and the purpose for which it was erected") and the replacement of the prior, Santiago Cantera, along with the departure of two other pro-Franco monks. The agreement also includes a member of the Church participating in the nine-member "independent jury" that chooses the best project in an international ideas competition. According to sources from the Ministry of Territorial Administration and Democratic Memory to , the Holocaust Monument in Berlin has been taken as models for the "resignification"; the Peace and Justice Monument in Montgomery, Alabama; the Center for Memory, Peace and Reconciliation, in Bogotá; the Memorial to the victims of violence in Mexico in Chapultepec, Mexico City; and the Museum of Memory and Human Rights in Santiago de Chile.[185].
Description
En el complejo se hallan una abadía benedictina "Benedictina (orden)"), la Abadía de la Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos, una hospedería y una basílica, todo ello dominado por una gran cruz.
En la decoración de la basílica tomaron parte, en estrecha colaboración con su arquitecto, algunos de los artistas españoles más importantes del momento, de diversa ideología política. Su revestimiento interno es austero: el pavimento, de mármol y granito pulidos, refleja la iluminación; los muros están forrados de cantería de granito; la bóveda de la nave lleva los tres grandes arcos fajones forrados de sillería que dejan, entre uno y otro, tramos, a su vez divididos por otros arcos, formando casetones con su interior de piedra irregular, simulando la propia del risco.
Entrance to the Valley
The sober entrance door consists of three sections. The central one is made up of two pillars that frame a fence whose crest shows, on a double-headed eagle, the Cross of the Valley and, below it, the coat of arms of Spain, on the left the coat of arms of Franco (founder of the monument) and on the right the shield of the Order of Saint Benedict.[187] Attached to both sides of this doorway are two other smaller doors through which tourist vehicles pass.
A road gradually ascends through areas that were once repopulated mainly with pines, as well as cypresses, firs, spruces, junipers, elms, poplars, chestnuts, etc.
The "Juanelos"
On the route the visitor encounters four large cylindrical monoliths (two on each side of the road on a stepped pedestal) as a portico: these are the so-called "Juanelos", carved in granite and 11.50 meters high and 1.50 meters in diameter each. They come from the quarries of Sonseca and Nambroca in the province of Toledo, and were carved in the 19th century, during the reign of Philip II, to be used by the Italian engineer living in Toledo, Juanelo Turriano, at the mill known as Artificio de Juanelo, to lift water from the Tagus River to the city of Toledo, and which were never taken to their destination. About them there was a popular song that said (The songs of Juanelo are already walking, they will arrive in Toledo, God knows when).
monumental cross
The cross has a height of 150 meters, of which 25 correspond to the base with the four evangelists (each 18 meters high) and their symbols or tetramorphs - Juan and the Eagle, Lucas and the Bull, Marcos and the Lion and Mateo and the Winged Man - made by Juan de Ávalos; 17 meters to the intermediate body with the cardinal virtues: prudence, justice, fortitude "Fortitude (Christianity)") and temperance; and 108 to the shaft of the cross. If we add to this the height of the Nava cliff used as a rock pedestal, another 150 meters would have to be added. The length of the arms is 46.40 m; Two passenger vehicles could cross paths in its interior corridors.[5].
The structure of the complex was made of reinforced concrete reinforced with a metal frame and covered with carved quarry and berrugo masonry. The construction was done without scaffolding, raising the building from within, as if it were a chimney; At the same time they were going up the stairs and the freight elevator, where there is now an elevator, inside. The arms, with a north-south orientation, were also made without scaffolding, hanging a platform from the iron frame as it was being assembled.
As for its delineation, it is achieved by the penetration of rectangular prisms that form a Greek cross in the cross section, with a soft raised collar that cushions the outer edge of the intersection of the two prisms. It is considered the highest Christian cross in the world, visible from more than 40 kilometers away.[13].
Funicular
There is a funicular (closed since 2009)[188] that ascends to the base of the cross in a southeast-north direction, starting from a height of 1,258 m until reaching 1,383 m and, therefore, overcomes 125 m of difference in altitude in a route of 277.6 m. It has a minimum slope of 43.44% and a maximum of 53.1%.[189].
Likewise, you can ascend to the cross by a path with a ramp and stairs that starts from the back side of Cerro de la Nava. There is also a restricted-use elevator that allows access to the cross through the interior of the mountain.
Staircase and esplanade
From the road you ascend to the large esplanade by a staircase 100 meters wide and divided into two sections, each with ten steps. It is set on live rock and ends in the large esplanade, which has an area of 30,600 square meters. Its pavement forms a cross in plan that leaves, in the four corners, squares paved with irregularly shaped stones whose joints are outlined with trefoil and king-gras. A wide and strong parapet frames this central part of the esplanade and separates it from two other sides to which you descend by stairs, also granite. Another staircase, with fifteen steps and 63 meters wide, leads to the door of the crypt.
Basilica
The initial plans for the underground basilica excavated in the Risco de la Nava were made by the first architect, Pedro Muguruza, but Diego Méndez completed them and carried out certain modifications to the original project.
It is accessed through a large front esplanade in which the material extracted from the mountain was used. The door is flanked by two symmetrical wings that form a semicircular porticoed exedra. In Muguruza's initial project, the semicircular arches were closed and decorated in stone, but Diego Méndez decided to open them and dismantle part of the cliff to do so, with the corresponding problems; thus gave rise to a true gallery.
The semicircular arches, the interior with padded voussoir, inscribed in a box of simple lines, form the large doorway. The door of the temple, 10.40 meters high by 5.80 meters wide, is made of bronze and is the work of Fernando Cruz Solís, first prize in the Competition held for this purpose at the end of 1956. It represents the fifteen mysteries of the rosary "Rosary (Catholicism)") and an apostolate.
At the top of the façade, and on its cornice, you can see the sculptural group called La Piedad, the work of Juan de Ávalos, made of stone from Calatorao (province of Zaragoza). It measures 5 meters high and 12 meters long.
The total length of the crypt is 262 meters and reaches its maximum height in the transept, where it reaches 41 meters. This crypt, in order of entry, includes: vestibule, atrium, intermediate space, large nave "Nave (architecture)") and transept "Cruise (architecture)"). Although each of the aforementioned rooms has its own decoration and layout, there is an aesthetic and stylistic harmony between all of them.
The vestibule, the atrium and the intermediate space each have an area of 11 meters wide and the height of their vaults is 11 meters. The height in the large nave is 22 meters. As for its decoration, it is made up of the same construction elements. As a consequence, the vestibule forms four wide pilasters joined by semicircular transverse arches and vaults with lunettes corresponding to the side arches. A richer decoration is used in the atrium, based on pilasters on a slope with a vault and semicircular transverse arches, adorning these with a simple casement.
In the intermediate space, covered by a groin vault, two gigantic archangels, the work of Carlos Ferreira, are housed in two large niches, in a vigilant and meditative attitude, guarding the entrance. They have their wings raised and rest their arms, stretched forward, on the hilt of the sword stuck in the plinths. According to the founder's testimony, they are made with bronze from cannons used during the war, as a symbol that the war had ended. The descent of ten steps, a canonical number in the symbology of the monument, leads to the gate.
This delimits and gives access to the place of worship itself. It is the work of José Espídos (also the author of the appliqués on the large nave). The elaborate grille, with sober polychrome, is inspired by the Plateresque, of great tradition in Spanish cathedrals and churches. It consists of three perfectly defined bodies, whose separation is marked by four buttresses: two attached to the walls and another two that act as jambs for the central door set. In the aforementioned buttresses, from left to right and from top to bottom, figures of forty saints appear attached to the body of the fence. A crest formed by angels, at the ends, and insignia of heroes and martyrs as the finishing touch to the central buttresses, accompanies the figure of Saint James the Apostle, patron saint of Spain, who appears in the center, crowned by a cross and angels. The spaces between the buttresses are covered by seven bars on each side and eighteen on the door leaves.
Abbey of the Holy Cross of the Valley of the Fallen
Erected on an esplanade at the back of the Risco de la Nava, a set of buildings extends consisting of a cloister, rear portico, monastery, novitiate, choir and internal lodging, on the one hand, and external lodging, on the other.
The unique cloister does not show the characteristic quadrangular layout of other monasteries, but is rectangular and is open towards the contemplation of the monumental cross.
In a rectangle 300 meters long and 150 meters wide, bounded by two side galleries with semicircular arches, the aforementioned buildings are framed, all of them made of granite stone and a hipped slate roof.
Next to the abbey is the cemetery of the Benedictine monks, to visit it your permission is required. The basilica and the abbey are connected through a private access that has a large monumental bronze door, the work of Damián Villar González.
On May 27, 1958, Pope Pius
On the feast of the Triumph of the Holy Cross, on July 17, 1958, twenty monks arrived from Silos undertook the beginning of the new Benedictine community in the Valley.
In popular culture
• - In 1963, producer Samuel Bronston produced a documentary about the monument that was presented at the Odeon Theater in London on December 2, with music by Cristóbal Halffter. The rights were donated to the Board of Trustees of the Basilica of the Holy Cross of Valle de los Caídos.
• - The documentary film about the Spanish Transition After... (You cannot be left alone, first part,[191] and Tied and well tied, second part[192]), presents extensive footage shot at the monument during Franco's funeral (1975) and during the celebration of 20-N in 1980, which was attended by Carmen Polo, his widow.
• - In Graham Greene's 1982 novel Monsignor Quixote (Monsignor Quixote) uses a visit to the Valley to illustrate the political and social attitudes of Franco's government and the state of his tomb in modern Spain.
• - In the film Wait for me in heaven (1988), by Antonio Mercero, the protagonist (Pepe Soriano) is so similar to Franco that he is forced to be his double on multiple occasions, even in his grave. Chus Lampreave, his wife, becomes a Franco follower so she can see her husband in the Valley.
• - The Barbarian Years, a Spanish film directed by Fernando Colomo, released on September 11, 1998 and based on the novel Other Men by Manuel Lamana, narrates the escape of the latter and Nicolás Sánchez-Albornoz from the Valley of the Fallen work camp.
• - The Valley of the Fallen appears in Richard Morgan's 2002 novel Altered Carbon, where it is used as a base of operations for one of the main antagonists, Reileen Kawahara.
• - The site also appears in the Spanish black comedy-horror film Balada triste de trumpeta (2010) directed by Álex de la Iglesia, where the protagonists have a fight at the top of the cross.
• - In 2013, the documentary All'ombra della croce (In the shadow of the cross)[193] directed by the Italian Alessandro Pugno was released in Spain, arousing controversy and interest in the national and international media.[194] The film tells the hidden story of the children of the choir, who sing mass every day in the Abbey of the Valley. The children live in a boarding school where they receive a religious education.[195] The film has been awarded the best documentary award at the Malaga Spanish Film Festival.
• - In the novel The Three Weddings of Manolita (2014), by Almudena Grandes (the third installment of his Episodes of an Endless War) the construction of the Valley of the Fallen is recreated from the point of view of a prisoner in the penal camp.[196].
• - The monument is a setting for Dan Brown's novel, Inception "Inception (Dan Brown novel)") (2017).
• - In May 2021, the National Library of Spain recovered more than 400 books deposited in the Valley of the Fallen in 1961.[197].
• - Valley of the Fallen Funicular.
• - Imperial Route of the Community of Madrid.
• - Cuelgamuros Valley.
• - Annex: Tallest statues in the world.
• - Exhumation of Francisco Franco.
• - Exhumations of the Valley of the Fallen.
• - Architecture of Francoism.
• - Olmeda, Fernando: The Valley of the Fallen. A memory of Spain (2009). ISBN 978-84-8307-874-7.
• - Sueiro, Daniel: The true story of the Valley of the Fallen (1976). ISBN 84-7380-215-2.
• - Artículos en Wikinoticias: Primera orden para la exhumación de ocho republicanos en el Valle de los Caídos.
• - Wikimedia Commons alberga una categoría multimedia sobre Valle de los Caídos.
• - Abadía de la Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos. Página oficial.
• - Patrimonio Nacional — Abadía Benedictina de la Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos. Patrimonio Nacional.
• - Asociación para la Defensa del Valle de los Caídos.
• - Informe de la Comisión de expertos para el futuro del Valle de los Caídos, 29 de noviembre de 2011. Memoria Histórica. Gobierno de España.
• - Los "Juanelos" y su traslado al Valle de los Caídos.
• - Conversaciones íntimas con Juan de Ávalos El Mundo. 2001.
• - Listado enterrados Valle de los Caídos.
• - Historia del Valle de los Caídos.
• - El sueño del dictador.
Videos
• - The sculptor Juan de Ávalos tells his experience.
• - The Valley of the Fallen: The Truth of History.
• - The truth about the prisoners of the Valley of the Fallen.
• - The key - The Valley of the Fallen - Nov 18, 1983 Debate around the history and construction of the Valley of the Fallen. Moderated by José Luis Balbín, with the participation of Gregorio Peces-Barba del Brío, Pedro Pérez Ramírez and Damián Rabal (workers in the construction of the monument), Juan de Ávalos (author of the sculptures) and Daniel Sueiro (author of the book The Valley of the Fallen: the secrets of the Franco crypt).
• - Documentary about the life of the Benedictines of the Abbey of the Valley of the Fallen In the shadow of the cross by Alessandro Pugno (2012).
[3] ↑ a b c Jefatura del Estado. «Ley 20/2022, de 19 de octubre, de Memoria Democrática». Boletín Oficial del Estado. España. Artículo 54. Valle de los Caídos. «1. Se modifica la denominación del «Valle de los Caídos», para ser denominado Valle de Cuelgamuros…».: https://www.boe.es/eli/es/l/2022/10/19/20
[25] ↑ «Real Decreto-ley 10/2018, de 24 de agosto, por el que se modifica la Ley 52/2007, de 26 de diciembre, por la que se reconocen y amplían derechos y se establecen medidas en favor de quienes padecieron persecución o violencia durante la Guerra Civil y la Dictadura». Boletín Oficial del Estado (206). 25 de agosto de 2018. «La presencia en el recinto de los restos mortales de Francisco Franco dificulta el cumplimiento efectivo del mandato legal de no exaltación del franquismo y el propósito de rendir homenaje a todas las víctimas de la contienda. El presente real decreto-ley pretende poner fin a esta situación […]».: https://www.boe.es/buscar/act.php?id=BOE-A-2018-11836#au
[30] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 189. "Más que de una clara muestra del nacionalcatolicismo del que en parte bebía el régimen, el Valle de los Caídos deba interpretarse como el fruto de la megalomanía de aquel que lo ideó y diseñó para su propia gloria".
[31] ↑ a b Box, 2010, p. 122.
[32] ↑ Rodrigo, 2008, p. 200.
[33] ↑ a b Box, 2010, p. 179.
[34] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 122-123.
[35] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 178.
[36] ↑ a b Box, 2010, p. 138; 142.
[37] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 23.
[38] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 128-132.
[39] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 133-134.
[40] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 151.
[41] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 163-164; 148.
[42] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 160.
[43] ↑ De Riquer, 2010, p. 121.
[44] ↑ Preston, 2011, p. 292.
[45] ↑ Preston, 2011, p. 606.
[46] ↑ De Riquer, 2010, p. 124.
[47] ↑ Preston, 2011, p. 615-616.
[48] ↑ Preston, 2011, p. 616.
[49] ↑ Casanova, 2015, p. 67.
[50] ↑ Casanova, 2015, p. 60; 67.
[51] ↑ Preston, 2011, p. 291. ”Para todas las familias, la muerte de un ser querido sin el debido entierro y funeral fue traumática; poder visitar una tumba, dejar flores o meditar contribuye a sobrellevar la pérdida, pero esos detalles esenciales les fueron negados a casi todas las familias de los asesinados en la represión [del bando sublevado]. Ver arrebatada la dignidad del difunto causaba un hondo pesar. Sin embargo, en las zonas de profunda raigambre católica, como Castilla y Navarra, la experiencia se vivió aún con mayor dolor. […] Todo ese consuelo espiritual quedó vedado a las familias católicas de los asesinados en la represión. Para todos ellos, católicos o no, el luto y el apoyo de la comunidad fueron sustituidos por el insulto, la humillación, las amenazas y las penurias económicas”.
[56] ↑ a b «Decreto de 1 de abril de 1940 disponiendo se alcen Basílica, Monasterio y Cuartel de Juventudes, en la finca situada en las vertientes de la Sierra del Guadarrama (El Escorial), conocida por Cuelga-muros, para perpetuar la memoria de los caídos en nuestra Gloriosa Cruzada». Boletín Oficial del Estado núm. 93, de 1 de abril de 1940: 2240. ISSN 0212-033X.: https://www.boe.es/datos/pdfs/BOE/1940/093/A02240-02240.pdf
[57] ↑ Muñoz Cosme, 2009, p. 94.
[58] ↑ Chías Navarro, 2015, pp. 174-175.
[59] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. Prólogo. "El decreto de creación del monumento, de 1.º de abril de 1940, no deja lugar a dudas de que pretendía homenajear y recordar a 'los caídos por Dios y por la Patria', a los héroes y mártires de la gloriosa Cruzada, o sea, a los vencedores".
[60] ↑ a b c Preston, 1998, p. 438.
[61] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 187-188.
[62] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 27-28.
[63] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 28.
[64] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 187. "Franco pensó en el Valle de los Caídos mucho antes de terminar la guerra. Pensó en algo que recordase la Cruzada y que fuese, como él decía, monasterio y enterramiento de aquellos que iban a morir. Ya antes de terminar la Cruzada le oí yo decir eso".
[65] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 24.
[66] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 21-22.
[67] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 24-25.
[68] ↑ Box, 2010, p. 187.
[69] ↑ Preston, 1998, p. 438-439. ”Resulta una sorprendente muestra de la seguridad de Franco en sí mismo, por no decir complacencia, que a principios de 1940 hallase tiempo para hacer excursiones al campo en busca de un emplazamiento para su monumento”.
[70] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 31. "Pedro Muguruza... manifestaba humildemente el día de la explosión del barreno simbólico que, aun siendo él el autor de esos planos, 'las ideas le habían sido expuestas directamente por S. E. el jefe del Estado' ".
[71] ↑ Preston, 1998, p. 439; 787.
[72] ↑ a b Preston, 1998, p. 787.
[73] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 116; 127. "En otra de sus visitas, al llegar ante la nave principal de la basílica, se paró de pronto, como sorprendido. Estaban ya las paredes revestidas y todo el interior despejado. "A esto le faltan dimensiones —dijo—. Esto da la sensación de que entramos en un túnel. Aquí hay que profundizar metro y medio en el suelo". Sería el rebaje que hoy puede contemplarse".
[74] ↑ a b c Preston, 1998, p. 439.
[75] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 32.
[76] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 37.
[77] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 192-193.
[78] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 68.
[79] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 83.
[80] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 117-118.
[81] ↑ a b Box, 2010, p. 188-189.
[82] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 129-130.
[83] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 174-175.
[84] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 122.
[85] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 147-149.
[86] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 149.
[87] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 182-185.
[88] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 181.
[89] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 191-192.
[90] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 182-184.
[91] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 187-189. "El último día del año 1956 me llama [Franco] y me dice: 'Lo que tenía que decirle es que busque Vd. una comunidad para el Valle de los Caídos'. [...] Yo en realidad no tenía gran ambición de ser abad, pero a Franco le gustaba que fuese yo, y como lo que Franco quería se hacía...".
[97] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 266-267. "Los presos tardan en venir, llegarían hacia el 42. Por lo menos dos años estuvimos allí con gente de los pueblos de alrededor".
[114] ↑ Rafael Torres, «Esclavos de Franco». Ed. Oberón 2000.
[115] ↑ Diego Méndez, El Valle de los Caídos. Idea, proyecto y construcción, Abadía de la Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos, 2009 (1.ª ed. 1982), p. 273. ISBN 84-85993-01-2.
[118] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 103. "Muchos penados se quedaban a trabajar en Cuelgamuros aún después de obtener la libertad provisional, por no tener a dónde ir o no querer exponerse a nuevas denuncias ni más averiguaciones".
[147] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 13-14. "Los monjes benedictinos, allí residentes, iban anotando las referencias de los muertos de una forma muy somera e incompleta, en los libros de registro de entradas. Hubo temporadas de auténtica avalancha, de ingresos masivos de restos, en los que los monjes prácticamente no daban abasto para ir registrando las cajas con huesos. En los años 60 siguieron llegando muchas cajas".
[153] ↑ Sueiro, 2019, p. 209-210. "Millares de afiliados al Movimiento vinieron en autocares, con sus bolsas de comida, desde todas las provincias españolas, y la Delegación de Trabajo de Madrid publicó una nota oficial recordando a las empresas su obligación de conceder permiso a los empleados que quisieran sumarse a la celebración...".
[173] ↑ El Valle, símbolo de reconciliación: «Es el lugar símbolo con que se quiso sellar aquella hora de España y fue una cruz y un altar,... lo que ha unido la sangre de Dios no la separe el hombre,... no se construye una sociedad amputando previamente sus raíces o procediendo a invertir sus fundamentos históricos».
[174] ↑ Artículo 16 del informe de la ponencia de la ley en la Comisión Constitucional:
[184] ↑ Resolución de 5 de mayo de 2025, de la Subsecretaría, por la que se publica el Convenio entre el Ministerio de Vivienda y Agenda Urbana, el Ministerio de Política Territorial y Memoria Democrática y la Fundación de la Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos, para el impulso del concurso de arquitectura del Memorial de Cuelgamuros. «BOE» núm. 113, de 10 de mayo de 2025, páginas 61367 a 61374.: https://www.boe.es/diario_boe/txt.php?id=BOE-A-2025-9180
It was Franco who personally chose Cuelgamuros to erect his "colossal architectural endeavor" there after a "painstaking search to locate the natural grandeur he was looking for", in the company of General Moscardó.[67][68][69] The general idea of what was going to be built there was also his[70] ―"a monument that would link the times of Franco with those of the Catholic Monarchs, Charles V and Philip II" and that "more than any other legacy of his regime, it reflected the concept that Franco had of himself as a historical figure on a par with Philip II"―[71] and during the design of the project by the architect Pedro Muguruza Franco made many indications and suggestions and also during its construction, such as doubling the size of the crypt[72][73] ―according to his biographer Paul Preston, the Valley of the Fallen would become Franco's second "private obsession", after of hunting―.[74] According to General Millán Astray Franco had a secret passion, that of "urban planner architect, builder of cities." "It was he, likewise, who designed and directed the construction of the Legion Officers' Circle...", said Millán Astray.[75] Pedro Muguruza, for his part, explained in Barcelona in 1942 that "the Caudillo wants Spain to orient its architecture by giving it a style peculiar to the historical moment that our nation has experienced in its liberating Crusade." "The new architectural style that is going [is] the imperial one," Muguruza will say.[76] For his part, the future abbot of the Benedictine monastery Fray Justo Pérez de Urbel stated that Franco "had great concern for the grandeur of the monument, but he also took care of the details. He chose all the Virgins... In every question he was asked, he demanded that he be consulted... Sometimes it took him a long time to go to the Valley, to return there, and then they had done something that he did not like and it had to be changed. (The one who also went up to Cuelgamuros a lot was General Millán Astray, "who gave tobacco to the prisoners, and gave us speeches, harangues of a patriotic type," as the practitioner of the works, also a prisoner, recalled.[79].
One of General Franco's fundamental concerns was the design of the monumental cross, a true symbol of the Valley. Franco rejected the different projects that were presented to him and he himself drew sketches of the cross he had in mind. Finally he approved the design presented to him by the architect Diego Méndez "Diego Méndez (architect)"), who had taken charge of the works in 1950 due to Pedro Muguruza's serious illness—he would die on February 3, 1952—[80]. A sober and concise cross, according to Méndez, which nevertheless measured 150 meters high.[81] Another of Franco's concerns was the decoration of the crypt because he wanted there to be a parade of heroes and martyrs on both sides because "the entire Crusade" "has really been that, it has been a parade of heroes and martyrs," he told the architect Méndez. But he finally convinced him to have the walls covered with scenes from the Apocalypse.[82] Franco also personally selected in the forests of the mountains of Segovia the juniper that was going to be used to make the cross for the main altar of the basilica and on which the carving of a Christ sculpted by Julio Beovide was going to be placed.[83].
Méndez set out to develop the original ideas of imperial greatness so that the monument plastically represented "the racial virtues, such as those of heroism, asceticism, the adventurous spirit, the desire for conquest, "quixotism", which form the whole that inspires and defines what is Spanish as a unity of sublime essence and a permanent aspiration towards the eternal." Thus the monument to the fallen had to be "nothing more and nothing less than the Altar of Spain, of heroic Spain, of mystical Spain, of eternal Spain."[84]
Juan de Ávalos was in charge of the sculptures at the base of the cross. At first it was planned to place representations of the twelve apostles there, but in the end it was agreed that they would be the four evangelists, at the base, and the four cardinal virtues in the transition area from that to the shaft of the cross. In addition, Ávalos sculpted the Pietà that was to appear above the entrance door to the basilica. General Franco did not like the first Pietà that he made—he told Ábalos that it was very pathetic, very sad, and that it looked like a bat—and he had to sculpt another one following Franco's ideas, who approved the sketches, and which was the one that was finally placed in the entrance.[85] On the other hand, the cardinal virtues had to be represented with manly images because Franco said that "women do not usually really embody those virtues."[86].
Finally, the "Youth Barracks" mentioned in the founding decree of 1940 was not built and the monastery designed and built by Muguruza, because it was too far from the basilica, did not house the monks but instead became a hostel and the headquarters of the Center for Social Studies destined to study and disseminate "Catholic social doctrine, which inspired the social achievements of the regime."[87] Thus a new monastery was built almost attached to the cliff on which the cross stood, "in such a way that the monks will be able to access the basilica without having to expose themselves to the elements, through an interior gallery excavated in the rock and with a vaulted ceiling, and then taking the elevator."[88] The decision to build the new monastery, which cost 160 million pesetas, was made by Franco after hearing the complaint of the future abbot Fray Justo Pérez de Urbel that the old one was too far from the basilica. «And when [the works] were finished and we [the monks] could move, I remember that [Franco] said: "Well, you will be happy now." "Well, yes... We are always willing to collaborate and do what His Excellency orders, but, of course, we have to do something that lends itself." "Yes, yes, I understand that it is better this way; it has cost a little, but it is better this way," recalled Fray Justo Pérez de Urbel years later.[89]
The Benedictine order was chosen to take charge of the abbey. Thus, a contract was signed with the abbey of Silos on May 29, 1958, signed by the abbot of Silos, Isaac María Toribios, and by the undersecretary of the Presidency, Luis Carrero Blanco, representing Franco. It was agreed to establish an independent abbey in the Valley of the Fallen, composed of at least twenty professed monks and an undetermined number of novices, whose obligations included "celebrating every year on July 17 a feast of the Triumph of the Holy Cross"; “sing a solemn mass of thanksgiving and a Te Deum” on April 1, “the day our crusade ended”; “celebrate a solemn mass” on October 1st “by H.E. the head of the State"; and "on November 20 of each year" "sing a solemn Mass for the Dead for all the fallen of our Crusade."[90] Franco personally chose Fray Justo Pérez de Urbel for the position of abbot of the Valley of the Fallen monastery.[91].
The first workers on the monument were free workers hired by the San Román company—one of them was the father of who would later become the famous actor Francisco Rabal. Months later, political prisoners began to work on the construction site.[97] Many of them were taken to the valley by the contractors themselves who stopped by the prisons to select them. Years later, one of the political prisoners in the Ocaña prison, sentenced to thirty years in prison, remembered the following:[98].
The legal basis for recruiting prisoners was a decree of May 28, 1937 that established the right to work for prisoners of war and non-common prisoners (the "red prisoners") and the ministerial order of October 7, 1938 that established the Redemption of Sentences through Work with the purpose of achieving "the spiritual and political strengthening of the families of the prisoners and of these themselves" through "the enormous task of extracting from the prisoners and their families "the poison of ideas of hatred and anti-homeland." The promoter of the idea of the redemption of sentences through work, the Jesuit José Agustín Pérez del Pulgar, justified it like this in The solution that Spain gives to the problem of its political prisoners, published in 1939: "It is very fair that the prisoners contribute with their work to the reparation of the damages to which they contributed with their cooperation to the Marxist rebellion", that it is the prisoner who works for the free worker, "who is assumed not to have committed a crime against the State and against society..., helping to rebuild what with his rebellion he contributed to destroy. [...] It is not possible, without taking precautions, to return to society, or as it were, to social circulation, damaged, perverted, politically and morally poisoned elements, because their re-entry into the free and normal community of Spaniards, without further ado, would represent a danger of corruption and contagion for everyone, along with the historical failure of the victory achieved at the cost of so much sacrifice.
For the prisoners, the option of redeeming sentences through work was "a situation incomparably better than those that will be experienced by those who are locked up in prisons or will be pushed to the walls in front of rifles."[100] As Susana Sueiro Seoane has stated, "obviously, given the extremely harsh conditions prevailing in Spanish prisons at that time, any political prisoner preferred to take advantage of the so-called System of Redemption of Sentences by Labor, designed by the Franco regime to exploit the hundreds of thousands of prisoners who crowded its prisons. Without a doubt, it was a better option for the prisoner than being locked up in unhealthy and overcrowded prisons because forced labor reduced their sentence time and, in the case of the Valley, they could work outdoors and receive visits from their families.
The bureaucratic procedure to access the system of redemption of sentences through work began with the written request of the prisoner, having to complete an application that was processed before the Ministry of Justice, Patronato de Nuestra Señora de la Merced (created for this purpose); In this request, the prisoner in question had to explain the reasons for his desire for a position, the prison he came from, why he was there, and the years of prison he had left to serve.[102] This is the process followed by the political prisoners who were not directly selected from the prisons by the concessionaire companies. This is how one of them, a lieutenant of the Army of the Republic, sentenced to thirty years in prison, remembered it, who was initially in the detachment that built the Buitrago dam to go to Cuelgamuros a year and a half later:[103].
In 1943, the Central Board for Redemption of Penalties for Work explained that companies assigned each worker the same salary as free workers within their profession and specialty. Overtime hours were also paid. All the social legislation of free workers governed for them. The companies were in charge of the food. They were responsible for the entire cost of food and on a monthly basis they were compensated for the amount of aid by receiving from the Provincial Prisons what concerns the State and by deduction when settling monthly with the Board of Trustees, of what the Board has assigned to each worker for food: 2 pesetas, for the first concept, and 0.85 pesetas, for the second, the difference until covering the real cost of maintenance, which never falls below 4 pesetas per worker and day, and which is also borne by the company. The report of the same Board of Trustees from 1949 explained that many prisoners did not fully benefit from the redemption of sentences through work because before completing their sentences they had been pardoned.
On the other hand, there are certain references that speak of thousands of Republican prisoners redeeming part of the sentence that had been imposed on them based on the formula "1 day of work = 5 days of sentence remission."[104] For his part, Alberto Bárcena Pérez, from the CEU San Pablo University, considers that there were up to six days per work day since overtime was also counted for the purposes of sentence reduction. Furthermore, the prisoners received the same salary as the rest of the workers in the sector in question.[105].
Regarding the working and living conditions, the architect Pedro Muguruza established that to carry out the heavy work of the works, the workers, both free workers and imprisoned workers, had to follow a diet of between 3,000 and 3,500 calories.[106] The construction doctor Ángel Lausín, also imprisoned, stated that "the work there in winter was very hard. In the summer it was better.
About the prisoners, a free worker related the following:[110].
Regarding accommodation, Daniel Sueiro points out "that many [prisoners] sleep together in the hastily built stone barracks, where at least there is electric light that, moreover, must be turned off at the call of silence [in each barracks there were between forty and fifty prisoners][111]. Others have preferred the independence and darkness of those miserable shanties made of branches and stones that are beginning to proliferate in the mountains, unauthorized but tolerated. Some begin to have the possibility of sleeping in them with their wives, when they are authorized to stay here for a week or two from time to time, and over time they will end up having their small children at their side as well. When the weather is good, the old and faithful, long-suffering, heroic republican couples lie down among the fragrant bushes on the hard and welcoming bed of the earth. They feel alive, despite everything."[112]
Regarding the number of workers, both free and prisoners, who worked on the works, Daniel Sueiro estimated in 1976 that over the twenty years that the construction of the Valley lasted about twenty thousand, although he did not provide any documentary evidence - at the end of 1943 there were about six hundred prisoners working in the Valley and towards the end of the works about two thousand workers distributed in continuous eight-hour shifts, according to Sueiro.[113] The figure of twenty thousand was later reproduced by historians such as Paul Preston[74] or Rafael Torres,[114] but was considered exaggerated in 2015 by Alberto Bárcena Pérez after investigating the archives of the Patronato de Redención de Penas por el Trabajo.[102] For his part, the architect Diego Méndez González "Diego Méndez (architect)"), director of the works from December 1950 until its completion, also stated that Normally there were about 2,000 workers a day.[115] The construction doctor stated that "one thousand five hundred or two thousand workers will have gathered there on occasions."[107].
There were escape attempts, but it appears that very few were successful. One of them was carried out by "an Argentinian" from the International Brigades who escaped in a car with his wife. But the most famous case was that of Nicolás Sánchez-Albornoz[116] who escaped from the Valley in the company of Manuel Lamana, another anti-Franco student also imprisoned, in 1948, helped by two North American students, one of them Barbara P. Salomon, also a historian like Sánchez Albornoz; His adventures were told in the film The Barbarian Years.[117].
After completing their sentence, many convicts continued to work in the Valley as free workers, many of them because they had nowhere to go with their background as "red prisoners."[118] This is how one of the inmates remembered it:[119].
Another political prisoner recalled the following:[120].
According to the doctor at the site, “around the 1950s they removed the penal establishments and only the free staff remained. And common prisoners began to arrive, but common prisoners were no longer working. They escaped..."[107].
Ángel Lausín, from the Health Corps of the Republican Army, purged after the end of the war, was the doctor of the Monument Works Council since 1940, the year he arrived there through the architect Pedro Muguruza. He was in charge of the first care of injured workers and prepared the seriously injured or those with fractures to be transferred to Madrid by ambulance or in the companies' cars. As he told Daniel Sueiro in 1976, "it was a rare day when there was not one of these [serious] accidents." There were quite a few, because of course, very large stones were moved, very large carts were moved transporting materials and earth...; "There were a thousand things." He also told him that there had been fourteen deaths, "in the entire time of the work, because I have been there practically the entire time."[121] For his part, the practitioner who helped Dr. Lausín told Sueiro that there had been eighteen deaths. On the other hand, both the doctor and the practitioner recalled that there had been numerous cases of arm and leg amputations.[122].
When asked about the cases of silicosis, Dr. Lausín told Sueiro that there were "quite a few." «Almost everyone has been dying; very few, if any, will remain. Here in Madrid I have known of quite a few who have been dying little by little. I don't think there are any left. At that time, very little was known about silicosis.[121][123][124] The workers who worked drilling the tunnel were aware of the risk they ran. A prisoner recounted the following years later: "When I was hired as a sweeper's assistant and then as a shoring man, a friend told me: "Please get out of the tunnel, you're taking your own life; you'll see how old they are." They went there because they paid for overfeeding, and for the sake of making a peseta, it turns out that what they have lost has been their lives. The borers almost all fall from silicosis; A number of them will have died. Or they are useless. So I continued working outside..."[125].
The son of a prisoner who went to work in the Valley as a free worker recalled years later the harsh working conditions of the San Román company in charge of drilling the tunnel:[126].
For her part, Bárcena Pérez affirms that the workplace accident rate was significantly lower than usual at the time. In 19 years, between 14 and 18 people died, some of them in traffic accidents or due to recklessness. During the first eight years of construction, when the number of political prisoners was greater, there were no fatalities.[127] However, Daniel Sueiro already confirmed in 1976, after speaking with many people who had worked in the Valley, that most of the accidents were "caused by rockfalls, as a result of the drilling."[128].
In 1976 Daniel Sueiro warned that the only source available to know the total cost of the works in the Valley of the Fallen were the papers of the architect Diego Méndez "Diego Méndez (architect)"), in charge of the works from 1950 until its completion. According to these papers, the work would have cost 1,086 million pesetas (exactly 1,086,460,331.89 pesetas). The most expensive parts would have been the crypt (356 million), the cross (about 115 million), the exedra (almost 112 million) and the monastery (90 million).
According to Sueiro's own calculations, in 1976 pesetas the work would have cost 5,500 million pesetas.[129] Twenty-two years later Paul Preston stated, without providing any documentary evidence, that the work would have cost 20,000 million pesetas, "almost as much as El Escorial had cost Philip II in a more prosperous time."[130].
The initial idea was that the work would be financed by an "annual subscription", as established in article 2 of the founding Decree of April 1, 1940. However, the following year, article 6 of the Decree of July 31, 1941, which created the Works Council of the National Monument of the Fallen, established that in addition to the "funds established in the Decree of April 1, 1940" the Council will have "those other contributions that the Government deems appropriate to allocate to it (sic)." The remaining millions were borne by the Public Treasury. This was recognized in the dossier of the architect Diego Méndez, which states that “the part of the funds raised in the annual subscription that was used to cover the expenses of the monument was insufficient. It only covered a quarter of the expenses. The total allocated to the monument from that amounted to 235,450,474.05 pesetas, which were just invested in the month of October 1952."[94].
Despite the fact that the "annual subscription" had only covered a quarter of the expenses, in the preamble of the Decree-Law of August 23, 1957, by which the Foundation of the Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos was established, it was stated that "so that the erection of such a great monument does not represent a charge for the Public Treasury, its works have been financed with a part of the amount of the national subscription opened during the war and, therefore "Therefore, with the voluntary contribution of all Spaniards who contributed to it" - on the other hand, in article 3 of the decree it was said that the Foundation would be financed with the benefits obtained from the National Lottery draws that would take place every May 5 and with "the contributions or donations that they may receive from corporations or individuals" -. After stating that the Valley of the Fallen "has not cost the Spanish taxpayer anything," Méndez said that the money came from funds that Franco had accumulated during the war from "multiple, and sometimes very large, donations from addicted people." What did not have to be used in cannons was jealously guarded, allocating it in mind to the future realization of that "something" worthy of the fallen. Nor, naturally, to the State. The cost of the gigantic undertaking was covered by Generalissimo Franco through numerous donations that he received during the war and that he carefully reserved for it.
During the construction of the Valley and when it was completed there were accusations, more or less veiled, of "waste" or "waste" because the money it had cost could have been used for other purposes. This is what a group of high-ranking American military personnel said when they visited the works in 1954. "They said that it was too sumptuous a work for a poor country, which needs to spend money on more necessary things, such as preparation for war, construction of houses, irrigation works, an endless number of necessary things," Francisco Franco Salgado-Araújo, cousin and secretary of the Caudillo, noted in his diary.[134] It was Franco himself who responded to these accusations in an interview for the newspaper Pueblo "Pueblo (newspaper)") held just one month after the inauguration of the «new and grandiose monument»: «When El Escorial was being built, many Spaniards murmured, according to History, about the expenditure that, in struggle with nature, Philip II carried out to build his great factory. In modern times, no doubt someone also murmured against the cost of this new and grandiose monument. However, if they only thought that it was intended to give honor, prayers and burial to our fallen for God and for Spain, the monument has cost less than what it would have represented to dedicate a thousand pesetas per fallen person for a modest burial. of material and work that has been brought together in the unique monument of Cuelgamuros. For his part, the writer José María Pemán, once again emphasized the comparison with Philip II: «There will be talk of waste and the easy metaphors of the pyramids and the pharaohs will be used. But if Felipe II did not have eyes for geopolitics, neither was Cuelgamuros going to have eyes for budgets.
Currently, the revenues provide the State with an average of two million euros per year,[15][136] but there is a deficit. In 2017 it was known that the monument represented a deficit of 2.5 million euros to the National Heritage in the three previous years.[137].
In application of the Decree of August 23, 1957, the Ministry of the Interior sent a circular in May of the following year to the civil governors to begin organizing the transfer of the bodies to the monument. In it it was said that one of its purposes had to be fulfilled: "that of burying those who were sacrificed for God and for Spain and all those who fell in our Crusade, without distinction of the field in which they fought, as imposed by the Christian spirit of forgiveness that inspired its creation, as long as each one was of Spanish nationality and Catholic religion."[142][143] As Daniel Sueiro highlighted in 1976, by requiring the requirement that they be Catholic, many of the republican combatants, "who although they died for Spain, they also, however, evidently did not die for God, at least not in a very special way."[142].
According to Daniel Sueiro, that the Valley of the Fallen was intended to bury only the dead of the national side would be demonstrated, in addition to the Decree creating the monument itself in 1940, a decree promulgated in 1946 to indefinitely extend the maximum period of ten years that the law established so that the corpses of Spanish citizens could remain buried in their initial or temporary graves - after that period they had to be taken to the common grave or transferred to niches paid for by their relatives. Without this extension, no body would have been able to be taken to the Valley and hence the need for the decree. Well, the decree stated that the extension would only affect "remains of those who died in our War of Liberation, whether they perished in the ranks of the National Army or were murdered or executed by the Marxist hordes in the period between July 18, 1936 and April 1, 1939, or even at a later date, in the event that the death was a direct consequence of war wounds or suffering." of prison. "Not a single mention, as can be seen - nor was there one in the decree creating the monument - to the Spaniards who died in opposite trenches," concludes Daniel Sueiro.[144].
At the beginning of 1959, some twenty thousand corpses had already been buried in the underground galleries opened under the side chapels of the transept of the basilica.[145] Joan Pinyol managed to document at least 500 cases of corpses that, like that of her grandfather, were taken to the Valley without the consent of their relatives.[146] According to Susana Sueiro Seoane, "the Regime needed many dead to fill that enormous mausoleum, but the The authorities' call for the war dead to be buried there was not very successful, so in the end, the transfer of remains was carried out en masse and with great carelessness, without identification or authorization, and on many occasions at night, specifically with regard to the republican dead, who had been murdered by the nationals and buried in clandestine common graves. Most of those listed as unknown in the "Valley" record books were taken there without the knowledge of their relatives. It is not clear today [2019] the number of those who were buried in the basilica's ossuaries, nor the precise identity of all of them. They may house the mortal remains of some 40,000 combatants from both sides. The place where war victims are buried is totally inaccessible. Relatives who have gone from not knowing where their parents or siblings were to finding out that they are buried next to Franco, cannot go and place a bouquet of flowers over his remains.
According to Susana Sueiro Seoane, the reason why it was decided at the last moment to also bury dead people from the Republican side in the Valley was due to the Franco regime's need to achieve "international recognition" by giving "a more acceptable image to Western democracies." On the other hand, this historian has pointed out that "revisionist historians"[149] have used the fact that dead people from the Republican side were also buried as "proof" that Franco conceived it as a "monument of reconciliation", forgetting that "the decree creating the monument, dated April 1, 1940, leaves no doubt that it was intended to honor and remember "those who fell for God and for the Country", the heroes and martyrs of the glorious Crusade, that is, the victors... But even in the speech at the inauguration of the monument in 1959, the idea of "our martyrs" continued to be insisted upon. In fact, on the access doors to the underground tombs where the war dead are buried, you can still read the inscription "Fallen by God and Spain, 1936-1939."[150]
The Valley of the Fallen was officially inaugurated on April 1, 1959, exactly twenty years after the end of the civil war. The solemn ceremony, which rivaled the celebration of Victory in 1939, was attended by government ministers, prosecutors of the Francoist Cortes and members of the National Council of the Movement, representatives of all the institutions of the regime and the single party FET and the JONS, the civil and military authorities of all the provinces, the high command of the Armies, two cardinals and a large number of bishops and archbishops, and members of the diplomatic corps. The Generalissimo Franco, dressed as a captain general, entered under the canopy "Palio (canopy)") into the basilica with his wife dressed in black with a mantilla and comb.[151][152] In the speech that the Generalissimo gave before thousands of ex-combatants, provisional ensigns, and relatives of the Fallen (from the Franco side)[153] he praised the heroism of "our Fallen" in defense of "our lines" and when he referred to the enemy he said that he had been forced to "bite the dust of defeat."[154]
Thus, not only did Franco not show the slightest desire for reconciliation, but his speech was “triumphant and vengeful,” according to Paul Preston. Precisely what the press highlighted the next day was that the inauguration of the Valley of the Fallen had been the culmination of Franco's Victory in 1939.[154] The newspaper La Vanguardia Española, for example, headlined On the 20th Anniversary of the Victory. Emotional day in the Valley of the Fallen. And from the Caudillo's speech the following phrases stood out on the cover: «In the entire development of our Crusade there is much that is providential and miraculous. How else could we describe the decisive help that we receive from divine protection in so many vicissitudes? »; «That glorious epic of our liberation cost Spain much so that it could be forgotten»; «Our victory was not a partial victory, but a total victory for everyone. "It was not administered for the benefit of a group or a class, but for the entire nation." And as an introduction to the full reproduction of Franco's speech, the following phrase of his: "The anti-Spain was defeated and defeated, but it is not dead."[155].
Paul Preston has highlighted that the inauguration of the Valley of the Fallen was "the apotheosis of Franco's career at the national level" - the culmination of his international career would occur six months later, with the visit of the American president Dwight D. Eisenhower to Spain. was celebrated in his memory. He always entered the basilica under a canopy.[157].
On October 13, 1961, a large concentration of the European extreme right was held in the Valley of the Fallen, convened by the self-proclaimed European Assembly of Ex-Combatants and organized by the Falangist minister José Solís Ruiz. Groups of German Nazis, Italian fascists and other losers of World War II went there. All of them paraded alongside former Franco combatants to pay tribute to the only coreligionist who had emerged victorious from that conflict. Franco did not consider it appropriate to attend but sent a message of welcome and congratulations through General Pablo Martín Alonso.[158].
Until the entry into force of the Historical Memory Law in 2007,[159] every November 20 (20N, anniversary of the death of José Antonio Primo de Rivera and Francisco Franco), the Valley of the Fallen became a meeting point for far-right followers of Francoism and José Antonio Primo de Rivera, founder of the Spanish Falange.[160].
The decision to bury him in the Valley was made by the government of the time "Annex: Fifteenth Government of Spain during the Franco dictatorship (1975)"), a decision ratified by King Juan Carlos I[166] who asked the father abbot for written permission to consent to it:
In early November 1975, when Franco's death seemed imminent, conservative architect Ramón Andrada Pfeiffer was instructed to check that Franco's tomb was prepared to receive his remains. According to Andrada, it was necessary to break the concrete slab that covered the tomb, divert the pipes that crossed it and cover its walls with concrete walls to isolate the grave and then line them with lead.[168] They then went to look for the 1,500 kilo granite slab that the architect Diego Méndez had prepared in 1959, exactly the same as the one used to cover the tomb of José Antonio Primo de Rivera, and which was in the workshop of the Alpedrete stonemason who had carved them. A specialist engraved the name "Francisco Franco" on the top. They took it to the Valley and did several trials until they were able to place the slab on the tomb in a few seconds, as would be required when the funeral was carried out.[169] The sculptor Juan de Ávalos commented on a Spanish Television program, Tal Cual, broadcast in 1993, that Ramón Andrada Pfeiffer had told him the following: "Juan, I am tremendously upset because in fifteen days we have to prepare the tomb for Franco."
After the promulgation of the Historical Memory Law in 2007, during the legislature of José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero, and years later, in September 2018 when Pedro Sánchez was President of the Government, the exhumation of Francisco Franco del Valle de los Caídos was approved by decree law with an absolute majority in the Congress of Deputies. However, after several sentences and appeals by the Franco family to try to prevent the exhumation of their grandfather, it was not until October 24, 2019, when the dictator Francisco Franco was exhumed from the Valley of the Fallen to be buried with his wife, Carmen Polo, in the Mingorrubio cemetery, an event carried out after the approval of the Supreme Court.[26] The President of the Government Pedro Sánchez declared that the exhumation of Francisco Franco from the Valley of the Fallen "puts an end to a moral affront" that Spain had suffered since 1975, "the exaltation of the figure of a dictator in a public space."[170].
In 2013 it was necessary to undertake a profound process of partial repair of some sculptures, due to defects in the materials that the author used when making them.[179] In 2016 the restoration work has been completed, despite the fact that it is suspected that the problems due to the incompatibility of materials may also affect other sculptures and the interior waterproofing of the Basilica is deficient, causing leaks and leaks.[180].
In 2017, the UN special rapporteur for the promotion of truth, justice, reparation and guarantees of non-repetition reminded the Spanish Government "urgently" of the demands of the victims of Franco's regime, appealing to human rights and leaving aside positions of political parties.[181].
On September 13, 2018, the Congress of Deputies validated a decree law, drafted by the Council of Ministers of the socialist Government chaired by Pedro Sánchez, which approved the exhumation of the remains of the dictator Francisco Franco and their transfer outside the basilica. The decree went ahead with an absolute majority (votes in favor of the PSOE, Unidas Podemos, PNV, ERC, PDeCAT, Compromís, EH Bildu, Canarian Coalition and Nueva Canarias (172 yeses); abstention of the PP, Ciudadanos, Unión del Pueblo Navarro and Foro Asturias (164 votes); and the contrary votes "by mistake" of the popular deputies Jesús Posada and José Ignacio Llorens).[182] The The exhumation of Francisco Franco was finally carried out on October 24, 2019.[26] The President of the Government Pedro Sánchez declared that the exhumation of Francisco Franco from the Valley of the Fallen "puts an end to a moral affront" that Spain had been carrying since 1975, "the exaltation of the figure of a dictator in a public space."[170].
The historian Paul Preston declared "The Valley of the Fallen must not disappear (...) In Spain there are people who confuse oblivion with reconciliation and memory with revenge."[183] The official name of the complex became Valle de Cuelgamuros by Law 20/2022, of October 19, on Democratic Memory.[3].
El País
On November 11, 2025, the winning project of the Cuelgamuros Valley resignification contest was announced. It was the project "The base and the cross" by Pereda Pérez Arquitectos y Lignum S.L. Through a "great crack" it will be transformed into a place of dialogue and plurality for all Spanish citizens.[186].
The nave is at a lower level to enhance the chancel "Channel (architecture)") and break the monotony of such a long space. It is divided into four sections, marked by series of large transverse arches, crossed in the vault to form coffered ceilings.
The dimensions of the current temple are greater than those of the original perforation, which was 11 by 11 meters. The technical difficulties of expanding the tunnel were very great due to the granitic structure of the cliff, with joints that could cause landslides, to the point that the decision was made to solidify the existing tunnel with the debris from the expansion of the floor and sides, and once this was completed and consolidated, to proceed with the total emptying. In August 1954, the interior lining was made, with large concreted transverse arches, as well as the sides and the floor, which contributes to the stability of the whole and to the support of the mass of stone that gravitates over the vault.
To the right and left are six small chapels, marked on the walls of the nave by large alabaster reliefs corresponding to different invocations of the Virgin as Patroness of the Armies of land, sea and air and for her connection to important aspects of the history of Spain. In order of entry, on the right: Immaculate Conception, Our Lady of Carmen (both are the work of Carlos Ferreira) and Our Lady of Loreto (Ramón Mateu); to the left; Our Lady of Africa (Ferreira), Our Lady of Mercy (Lapayese) and Our Lady of Pilar (Mateu).
In these chapels the decoration is very simple: altar fronts in relief and triptychs in the Flemish Gothic style from the 16th century. hand-painted on leather, in the manner of the Spanish souvenir guadamecíes and medieval traces, which were made in the 19th century. by the Lapayese. In both cases scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary are represented. Other sculptural elements present inside each chapel are also the work of Lapayese, father and son. These are two alabaster images of the Apostles placed on the side walls of each of them, in such a way that they form a group of twelve (instead of Judas Iscariot, Saint Matthias was chosen).
On the walls, interspersed between each chapel, hang eight tapestries from the Apocalypse of Saint John series, a copy of a Flemish collection of the century acquired by Charles V and brought to Spain by Philip II. The originals are in the Palacio de La Granja. However, these replicas have outstanding artistic value.
Below the tapestries, two padded courses run along the walls, like a plinth.
From the large nave you ascend to the transept by a staircase with ten steps. On the sides, eight statues can be seen on pilasters, the work of Antonio Martín and Luis Sanguino, with their heads bowed and covered, inviting an attitude of respect and silence, since the visitor is in a sacred space and in a large war cemetery. They represent fallen contenders in the war on land, sea, air, as well as volunteers. The rough work of the clothing contrasts with the polish of the faces and arms.
Along this space there are two rows of benches to listen to the mass.
In the central part of the transept, the decorative norms adopted in the nave and spaces that precede it vary; However, affinity with these is achieved due to their very disparity. The layout is rigidly classical in the mural canvases, and they only break in the four main arches, supporting the dome cap, formed by padded voussoirs that flare.
In the very center of the transept and vertically with the monumental cross on the outside, the main altar is located, formed by a large slab of polished granite in a single piece. The front front of the altar table is decorated with a bas-relief of the Holy Burial, in gold plate, designed by architect Diego Méndez and executed by Espinos. The back front represents the Last Supper. On its sides, you can see the group of "Tetramorphs" or symbols of the four evangelists: the bull of Saint Luke, the lion of Saint Mark, the angel of Saint Matthew and the eagle of Saint John.
As the only decoration of the altar, and above it, stands a carving of the crucified Christ by the image maker Julio Beobide and polychromed by Ignacio Zuloaga.
The lateral arms of the transept, 12.80 meters wide, end in the chapels of the Most Holy and the Holy Sepulchre.
Around the presbytery, the images of four large bronze archangels stand out, 7 m high and the work of Ávalos: Saint Raphael, Saint Michael, Saint Gabriel and Saint Uriel (Yezrael or Azrael).
Saint Raphael is represented according to the role he played in this story, with the pilgrim's staff as a guide for the character in the book and with the fish with whose gall he cured his blindness. Saint Michael is represented with the sword, as triumphant over the rebellion of Luzbel or Satan. Saint Gabriel holds a lily, in reference to his mission of having announced the Virgin Mary. He had also previously announced to Zechariah "Zechariah (father of John the Baptist)") the birth of Saint John the Baptist. Saint Uriel, as he was known in the Christian Middle Ages especially from Saint Isidore of Seville, is the Yezrael or Azrael of the Jews and is represented in the same way that they do: with his head bowed and covered and his hands raised in a prayerful attitude. He is the archangel who, according to some apocryphal stories of the Old Testament not considered to be inspired by God (although Jewish and Christian tradition has accepted some elements of them), presents the deceased before Yahveh: hence he is also the one who presents the souls of the fallen before God. Of the four archangels in the basilica, he is the one that attracts the attention of visitors the most.
The transept is completed by three fronts: at the end of the basilica, the choir; on the right side, the Chapel of the Sepulcher; and to the left of the transept, the Chapel of the Santísimo.
Above the transept there is a dome, topped by a skylight, decorated with a mosaic by Santiago Padrós. From the front, the image, typically Byzantine and Romanesque, of the "Pantocrator" is represented in the center: Almighty Christ, King and Judge, in majesty, with the book of Life in which the phrase "Ego sum lux mundi" ("I am the light of the world") is inscribed. The typical "mandorla or mystical almond" of the Romanesque art that surrounds it is made up of the wings of seraphim and cherubs. The presence of angels in Heaven is also clearly represented by others in the mosaic, with censers and swords, according to the symbolic descriptions of some texts of the Old and New Testaments.
Below Christ the theme of the triumph or exaltation of the Holy Cross, owner of the sanctuary, is observed. The "True Cross" is being exalted on Mount Calvary, where those of the two thieves who were crucified are discovered on both sides.
To the right of Jesus Christ is a large group of Spanish saints with James the Greater at their head, and to the left another of Spanish martyrs presided over by Saint Paul (that is, the two Apostles who, according to tradition, came to preach in Spain). The entire history of Spain as a Catholic nation is summarized here.
From the opposite side, in the center is the group of the Assumption of the Virgin, raised to heaven by angels from a mountain that represents Montserrat. The representation of Montserrat is due to the following reasons: the Virgin of this invocation is the Patroness of Catalonia, Padrós was Catalan, his wife also had that name and at one point a community of Benedictine monks from Montserrat was about to come to take charge of the sanctuary, before it was dealt with by the abbey of Silos. On the mountain the carpenter's saw is discovered, in such a way that the coat of arms of the Montserrat abbey is depicted. On the mountain itself, on the other hand, there is a scallop, scallop or shell of Santiago, in allusion to the name of the artist, and an inscription referring to its creation by him.
On the sides of the group of the Assumption of the Virgin are the civil and religious fallen and the military fallen in the Civil War, a cannon and five flags are also observed; three flags of Spain (the red one) without identifying shields, another with the Cross of Burgundy and a Falangist one, the latter being the only strictly Franco symbology existing in the entire church.
The mosaic, of more than five million tesserae, was made flat in the Royal Theater of Madrid, with the difficulty of having to later incorporate it into a vaulted, dome-shaped plane, which was done by the so-called indirect method. Therefore, once installed, Padrós observed that between the central column of angels of the Assumption group (the only column originally designed) and the two groups of fallen, especially that of the contenders, there was a very large space. To break that distance, already on the site he decided to raise two other side columns of smaller and more playful angels.
Padrós made real portraits of figures, both historical (some saints, for example Saint Ignatius and Saint Teresa), and others that he drew in the Madrid Metro to capture in the mosaic, his own self-portrait and that of his wife, or that of other notable figures of the time (among them, Miguel de Unamuno in the role of Saint Raimundo de Fitero).
To save the mosaic from the humidity that was foreseen and that can be seen with the naked eye in various parts of the basilica, Diego Méndez built a double dome: above the mosaic dome, which is covered by a layer of asphalt fabric that makes it waterproof, there is a very wide opening and another upper dome.
At the head of the temple is the choir "Choir (architecture)") of Renaissance inspiration, semicircular in plan and 70 seats arranged in three heights or levels, joined, at the back, with a gallery that leads to the staircase and the elevator of the cross. The monks and the choir are located there during the celebration of mass. The seating is made of walnut wood and was carved by Ramón Lapayese with medieval war scenes. According to its author, the theme was free, the reference to the medieval Crusades seems evident, especially because in some of the panels you can see houses in the style of those existing in the Holy Land, in addition to other details that point in that direction.
In alabaster there are some relief images of Benedictine saints, some of them with the daily habit and others with the coral or cowl, and two round figures of the same material: Saint Benedict of Nursia with the book of the Holy Rule that he wrote to legislate the life of his monks, and Saint Francis of Assisi with a crucifix in his hands.
On the right side of the transept is the Chapel of the Sepulcher with three sculptures by Lapayese: a recumbent Christ and the images of Calvary, that is, the Virgin Mary and Saint John the Evangelist. On the ceiling there is another mosaic by Santiago Padrós, which in this case represents the Holy Burial.
To the left of the transept is the Chapel of the Santísimo. In it there is a silver tabernacle from Espídos, in which the reliefs of the Apostles and other motifs can be seen.
Behind him is a Flemish Gothic style altarpiece from the 17th century (made in the 19th century) in which the Holy Trinity is represented in a scene of pain: the Father, with the Holy Spirit in the form of a dove, holds the dead Son in his arms, showing the world how far God's love for men has reached. It is surrounded by images of six apostles. Under the altar other paintings of saints in a similar style are discovered.
The chapel is crowned on its ceiling by a mosaic of the Ascension of Jesus Christ, the work of Victoriano Pardo. In this way, in the two large side chapels we find representations of the Passion and Death and of Glory as central mysteries of Christianity, while at the same time they are related to the presence of so many fallen from the war in the place, which thus becomes a sanctuary of hope in eternal life.
Caudillo
It was Franco who personally chose Cuelgamuros to erect his "colossal architectural endeavor" there after a "painstaking search to locate the natural grandeur he was looking for", in the company of General Moscardó.[67][68][69] The general idea of what was going to be built there was also his[70] ―"a monument that would link the times of Franco with those of the Catholic Monarchs, Charles V and Philip II" and that "more than any other legacy of his regime, it reflected the concept that Franco had of himself as a historical figure on a par with Philip II"―[71] and during the design of the project by the architect Pedro Muguruza Franco made many indications and suggestions and also during its construction, such as doubling the size of the crypt[72][73] ―according to his biographer Paul Preston, the Valley of the Fallen would become Franco's second "private obsession", after of hunting―.[74] According to General Millán Astray Franco had a secret passion, that of "urban planner architect, builder of cities." "It was he, likewise, who designed and directed the construction of the Legion Officers' Circle...", said Millán Astray.[75] Pedro Muguruza, for his part, explained in Barcelona in 1942 that "the Caudillo wants Spain to orient its architecture by giving it a style peculiar to the historical moment that our nation has experienced in its liberating Crusade." "The new architectural style that is going [is] the imperial one," Muguruza will say.[76] For his part, the future abbot of the Benedictine monastery Fray Justo Pérez de Urbel stated that Franco "had great concern for the grandeur of the monument, but he also took care of the details. He chose all the Virgins... In every question he was asked, he demanded that he be consulted... Sometimes it took him a long time to go to the Valley, to return there, and then they had done something that he did not like and it had to be changed. (The one who also went up to Cuelgamuros a lot was General Millán Astray, "who gave tobacco to the prisoners, and gave us speeches, harangues of a patriotic type," as the practitioner of the works, also a prisoner, recalled.[79].
One of General Franco's fundamental concerns was the design of the monumental cross, a true symbol of the Valley. Franco rejected the different projects that were presented to him and he himself drew sketches of the cross he had in mind. Finally he approved the design presented to him by the architect Diego Méndez "Diego Méndez (architect)"), who had taken charge of the works in 1950 due to Pedro Muguruza's serious illness—he would die on February 3, 1952—[80]. A sober and concise cross, according to Méndez, which nevertheless measured 150 meters high.[81] Another of Franco's concerns was the decoration of the crypt because he wanted there to be a parade of heroes and martyrs on both sides because "the entire Crusade" "has really been that, it has been a parade of heroes and martyrs," he told the architect Méndez. But he finally convinced him to have the walls covered with scenes from the Apocalypse.[82] Franco also personally selected in the forests of the mountains of Segovia the juniper that was going to be used to make the cross for the main altar of the basilica and on which the carving of a Christ sculpted by Julio Beovide was going to be placed.[83].
Méndez set out to develop the original ideas of imperial greatness so that the monument plastically represented "the racial virtues, such as those of heroism, asceticism, the adventurous spirit, the desire for conquest, "quixotism", which form the whole that inspires and defines what is Spanish as a unity of sublime essence and a permanent aspiration towards the eternal." Thus the monument to the fallen had to be "nothing more and nothing less than the Altar of Spain, of heroic Spain, of mystical Spain, of eternal Spain."[84]
Juan de Ávalos was in charge of the sculptures at the base of the cross. At first it was planned to place representations of the twelve apostles there, but in the end it was agreed that they would be the four evangelists, at the base, and the four cardinal virtues in the transition area from that to the shaft of the cross. In addition, Ávalos sculpted the Pietà that was to appear above the entrance door to the basilica. General Franco did not like the first Pietà that he made—he told Ábalos that it was very pathetic, very sad, and that it looked like a bat—and he had to sculpt another one following Franco's ideas, who approved the sketches, and which was the one that was finally placed in the entrance.[85] On the other hand, the cardinal virtues had to be represented with manly images because Franco said that "women do not usually really embody those virtues."[86].
Finally, the "Youth Barracks" mentioned in the founding decree of 1940 was not built and the monastery designed and built by Muguruza, because it was too far from the basilica, did not house the monks but instead became a hostel and the headquarters of the Center for Social Studies destined to study and disseminate "Catholic social doctrine, which inspired the social achievements of the regime."[87] Thus a new monastery was built almost attached to the cliff on which the cross stood, "in such a way that the monks will be able to access the basilica without having to expose themselves to the elements, through an interior gallery excavated in the rock and with a vaulted ceiling, and then taking the elevator."[88] The decision to build the new monastery, which cost 160 million pesetas, was made by Franco after hearing the complaint of the future abbot Fray Justo Pérez de Urbel that the old one was too far from the basilica. «And when [the works] were finished and we [the monks] could move, I remember that [Franco] said: "Well, you will be happy now." "Well, yes... We are always willing to collaborate and do what His Excellency orders, but, of course, we have to do something that lends itself." "Yes, yes, I understand that it is better this way; it has cost a little, but it is better this way," recalled Fray Justo Pérez de Urbel years later.[89]
The Benedictine order was chosen to take charge of the abbey. Thus, a contract was signed with the abbey of Silos on May 29, 1958, signed by the abbot of Silos, Isaac María Toribios, and by the undersecretary of the Presidency, Luis Carrero Blanco, representing Franco. It was agreed to establish an independent abbey in the Valley of the Fallen, composed of at least twenty professed monks and an undetermined number of novices, whose obligations included "celebrating every year on July 17 a feast of the Triumph of the Holy Cross"; “sing a solemn mass of thanksgiving and a Te Deum” on April 1, “the day our crusade ended”; “celebrate a solemn mass” on October 1st “by H.E. the head of the State"; and "on November 20 of each year" "sing a solemn Mass for the Dead for all the fallen of our Crusade."[90] Franco personally chose Fray Justo Pérez de Urbel for the position of abbot of the Valley of the Fallen monastery.[91].
The first workers on the monument were free workers hired by the San Román company—one of them was the father of who would later become the famous actor Francisco Rabal. Months later, political prisoners began to work on the construction site.[97] Many of them were taken to the valley by the contractors themselves who stopped by the prisons to select them. Years later, one of the political prisoners in the Ocaña prison, sentenced to thirty years in prison, remembered the following:[98].
The legal basis for recruiting prisoners was a decree of May 28, 1937 that established the right to work for prisoners of war and non-common prisoners (the "red prisoners") and the ministerial order of October 7, 1938 that established the Redemption of Sentences through Work with the purpose of achieving "the spiritual and political strengthening of the families of the prisoners and of these themselves" through "the enormous task of extracting from the prisoners and their families "the poison of ideas of hatred and anti-homeland." The promoter of the idea of the redemption of sentences through work, the Jesuit José Agustín Pérez del Pulgar, justified it like this in The solution that Spain gives to the problem of its political prisoners, published in 1939: "It is very fair that the prisoners contribute with their work to the reparation of the damages to which they contributed with their cooperation to the Marxist rebellion", that it is the prisoner who works for the free worker, "who is assumed not to have committed a crime against the State and against society..., helping to rebuild what with his rebellion he contributed to destroy. [...] It is not possible, without taking precautions, to return to society, or as it were, to social circulation, damaged, perverted, politically and morally poisoned elements, because their re-entry into the free and normal community of Spaniards, without further ado, would represent a danger of corruption and contagion for everyone, along with the historical failure of the victory achieved at the cost of so much sacrifice.
For the prisoners, the option of redeeming sentences through work was "a situation incomparably better than those that will be experienced by those who are locked up in prisons or will be pushed to the walls in front of rifles."[100] As Susana Sueiro Seoane has stated, "obviously, given the extremely harsh conditions prevailing in Spanish prisons at that time, any political prisoner preferred to take advantage of the so-called System of Redemption of Sentences by Labor, designed by the Franco regime to exploit the hundreds of thousands of prisoners who crowded its prisons. Without a doubt, it was a better option for the prisoner than being locked up in unhealthy and overcrowded prisons because forced labor reduced their sentence time and, in the case of the Valley, they could work outdoors and receive visits from their families.
The bureaucratic procedure to access the system of redemption of sentences through work began with the written request of the prisoner, having to complete an application that was processed before the Ministry of Justice, Patronato de Nuestra Señora de la Merced (created for this purpose); In this request, the prisoner in question had to explain the reasons for his desire for a position, the prison he came from, why he was there, and the years of prison he had left to serve.[102] This is the process followed by the political prisoners who were not directly selected from the prisons by the concessionaire companies. This is how one of them, a lieutenant of the Army of the Republic, sentenced to thirty years in prison, remembered it, who was initially in the detachment that built the Buitrago dam to go to Cuelgamuros a year and a half later:[103].
In 1943, the Central Board for Redemption of Penalties for Work explained that companies assigned each worker the same salary as free workers within their profession and specialty. Overtime hours were also paid. All the social legislation of free workers governed for them. The companies were in charge of the food. They were responsible for the entire cost of food and on a monthly basis they were compensated for the amount of aid by receiving from the Provincial Prisons what concerns the State and by deduction when settling monthly with the Board of Trustees, of what the Board has assigned to each worker for food: 2 pesetas, for the first concept, and 0.85 pesetas, for the second, the difference until covering the real cost of maintenance, which never falls below 4 pesetas per worker and day, and which is also borne by the company. The report of the same Board of Trustees from 1949 explained that many prisoners did not fully benefit from the redemption of sentences through work because before completing their sentences they had been pardoned.
On the other hand, there are certain references that speak of thousands of Republican prisoners redeeming part of the sentence that had been imposed on them based on the formula "1 day of work = 5 days of sentence remission."[104] For his part, Alberto Bárcena Pérez, from the CEU San Pablo University, considers that there were up to six days per work day since overtime was also counted for the purposes of sentence reduction. Furthermore, the prisoners received the same salary as the rest of the workers in the sector in question.[105].
Regarding the working and living conditions, the architect Pedro Muguruza established that to carry out the heavy work of the works, the workers, both free workers and imprisoned workers, had to follow a diet of between 3,000 and 3,500 calories.[106] The construction doctor Ángel Lausín, also imprisoned, stated that "the work there in winter was very hard. In the summer it was better.
About the prisoners, a free worker related the following:[110].
Regarding accommodation, Daniel Sueiro points out "that many [prisoners] sleep together in the hastily built stone barracks, where at least there is electric light that, moreover, must be turned off at the call of silence [in each barracks there were between forty and fifty prisoners][111]. Others have preferred the independence and darkness of those miserable shanties made of branches and stones that are beginning to proliferate in the mountains, unauthorized but tolerated. Some begin to have the possibility of sleeping in them with their wives, when they are authorized to stay here for a week or two from time to time, and over time they will end up having their small children at their side as well. When the weather is good, the old and faithful, long-suffering, heroic republican couples lie down among the fragrant bushes on the hard and welcoming bed of the earth. They feel alive, despite everything."[112]
Regarding the number of workers, both free and prisoners, who worked on the works, Daniel Sueiro estimated in 1976 that over the twenty years that the construction of the Valley lasted about twenty thousand, although he did not provide any documentary evidence - at the end of 1943 there were about six hundred prisoners working in the Valley and towards the end of the works about two thousand workers distributed in continuous eight-hour shifts, according to Sueiro.[113] The figure of twenty thousand was later reproduced by historians such as Paul Preston[74] or Rafael Torres,[114] but was considered exaggerated in 2015 by Alberto Bárcena Pérez after investigating the archives of the Patronato de Redención de Penas por el Trabajo.[102] For his part, the architect Diego Méndez González "Diego Méndez (architect)"), director of the works from December 1950 until its completion, also stated that Normally there were about 2,000 workers a day.[115] The construction doctor stated that "one thousand five hundred or two thousand workers will have gathered there on occasions."[107].
There were escape attempts, but it appears that very few were successful. One of them was carried out by "an Argentinian" from the International Brigades who escaped in a car with his wife. But the most famous case was that of Nicolás Sánchez-Albornoz[116] who escaped from the Valley in the company of Manuel Lamana, another anti-Franco student also imprisoned, in 1948, helped by two North American students, one of them Barbara P. Salomon, also a historian like Sánchez Albornoz; His adventures were told in the film The Barbarian Years.[117].
After completing their sentence, many convicts continued to work in the Valley as free workers, many of them because they had nowhere to go with their background as "red prisoners."[118] This is how one of the inmates remembered it:[119].
Another political prisoner recalled the following:[120].
According to the doctor at the site, “around the 1950s they removed the penal establishments and only the free staff remained. And common prisoners began to arrive, but common prisoners were no longer working. They escaped..."[107].
Ángel Lausín, from the Health Corps of the Republican Army, purged after the end of the war, was the doctor of the Monument Works Council since 1940, the year he arrived there through the architect Pedro Muguruza. He was in charge of the first care of injured workers and prepared the seriously injured or those with fractures to be transferred to Madrid by ambulance or in the companies' cars. As he told Daniel Sueiro in 1976, "it was a rare day when there was not one of these [serious] accidents." There were quite a few, because of course, very large stones were moved, very large carts were moved transporting materials and earth...; "There were a thousand things." He also told him that there had been fourteen deaths, "in the entire time of the work, because I have been there practically the entire time."[121] For his part, the practitioner who helped Dr. Lausín told Sueiro that there had been eighteen deaths. On the other hand, both the doctor and the practitioner recalled that there had been numerous cases of arm and leg amputations.[122].
When asked about the cases of silicosis, Dr. Lausín told Sueiro that there were "quite a few." «Almost everyone has been dying; very few, if any, will remain. Here in Madrid I have known of quite a few who have been dying little by little. I don't think there are any left. At that time, very little was known about silicosis.[121][123][124] The workers who worked drilling the tunnel were aware of the risk they ran. A prisoner recounted the following years later: "When I was hired as a sweeper's assistant and then as a shoring man, a friend told me: "Please get out of the tunnel, you're taking your own life; you'll see how old they are." They went there because they paid for overfeeding, and for the sake of making a peseta, it turns out that what they have lost has been their lives. The borers almost all fall from silicosis; A number of them will have died. Or they are useless. So I continued working outside..."[125].
The son of a prisoner who went to work in the Valley as a free worker recalled years later the harsh working conditions of the San Román company in charge of drilling the tunnel:[126].
For her part, Bárcena Pérez affirms that the workplace accident rate was significantly lower than usual at the time. In 19 years, between 14 and 18 people died, some of them in traffic accidents or due to recklessness. During the first eight years of construction, when the number of political prisoners was greater, there were no fatalities.[127] However, Daniel Sueiro already confirmed in 1976, after speaking with many people who had worked in the Valley, that most of the accidents were "caused by rockfalls, as a result of the drilling."[128].
In 1976 Daniel Sueiro warned that the only source available to know the total cost of the works in the Valley of the Fallen were the papers of the architect Diego Méndez "Diego Méndez (architect)"), in charge of the works from 1950 until its completion. According to these papers, the work would have cost 1,086 million pesetas (exactly 1,086,460,331.89 pesetas). The most expensive parts would have been the crypt (356 million), the cross (about 115 million), the exedra (almost 112 million) and the monastery (90 million).
According to Sueiro's own calculations, in 1976 pesetas the work would have cost 5,500 million pesetas.[129] Twenty-two years later Paul Preston stated, without providing any documentary evidence, that the work would have cost 20,000 million pesetas, "almost as much as El Escorial had cost Philip II in a more prosperous time."[130].
The initial idea was that the work would be financed by an "annual subscription", as established in article 2 of the founding Decree of April 1, 1940. However, the following year, article 6 of the Decree of July 31, 1941, which created the Works Council of the National Monument of the Fallen, established that in addition to the "funds established in the Decree of April 1, 1940" the Council will have "those other contributions that the Government deems appropriate to allocate to it (sic)." The remaining millions were borne by the Public Treasury. This was recognized in the dossier of the architect Diego Méndez, which states that “the part of the funds raised in the annual subscription that was used to cover the expenses of the monument was insufficient. It only covered a quarter of the expenses. The total allocated to the monument from that amounted to 235,450,474.05 pesetas, which were just invested in the month of October 1952."[94].
Despite the fact that the "annual subscription" had only covered a quarter of the expenses, in the preamble of the Decree-Law of August 23, 1957, by which the Foundation of the Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos was established, it was stated that "so that the erection of such a great monument does not represent a charge for the Public Treasury, its works have been financed with a part of the amount of the national subscription opened during the war and, therefore "Therefore, with the voluntary contribution of all Spaniards who contributed to it" - on the other hand, in article 3 of the decree it was said that the Foundation would be financed with the benefits obtained from the National Lottery draws that would take place every May 5 and with "the contributions or donations that they may receive from corporations or individuals" -. After stating that the Valley of the Fallen "has not cost the Spanish taxpayer anything," Méndez said that the money came from funds that Franco had accumulated during the war from "multiple, and sometimes very large, donations from addicted people." What did not have to be used in cannons was jealously guarded, allocating it in mind to the future realization of that "something" worthy of the fallen. Nor, naturally, to the State. The cost of the gigantic undertaking was covered by Generalissimo Franco through numerous donations that he received during the war and that he carefully reserved for it.
During the construction of the Valley and when it was completed there were accusations, more or less veiled, of "waste" or "waste" because the money it had cost could have been used for other purposes. This is what a group of high-ranking American military personnel said when they visited the works in 1954. "They said that it was too sumptuous a work for a poor country, which needs to spend money on more necessary things, such as preparation for war, construction of houses, irrigation works, an endless number of necessary things," Francisco Franco Salgado-Araújo, cousin and secretary of the Caudillo, noted in his diary.[134] It was Franco himself who responded to these accusations in an interview for the newspaper Pueblo "Pueblo (newspaper)") held just one month after the inauguration of the «new and grandiose monument»: «When El Escorial was being built, many Spaniards murmured, according to History, about the expenditure that, in struggle with nature, Philip II carried out to build his great factory. In modern times, no doubt someone also murmured against the cost of this new and grandiose monument. However, if they only thought that it was intended to give honor, prayers and burial to our fallen for God and for Spain, the monument has cost less than what it would have represented to dedicate a thousand pesetas per fallen person for a modest burial. of material and work that has been brought together in the unique monument of Cuelgamuros. For his part, the writer José María Pemán, once again emphasized the comparison with Philip II: «There will be talk of waste and the easy metaphors of the pyramids and the pharaohs will be used. But if Felipe II did not have eyes for geopolitics, neither was Cuelgamuros going to have eyes for budgets.
Currently, the revenues provide the State with an average of two million euros per year,[15][136] but there is a deficit. In 2017 it was known that the monument represented a deficit of 2.5 million euros to the National Heritage in the three previous years.[137].
In application of the Decree of August 23, 1957, the Ministry of the Interior sent a circular in May of the following year to the civil governors to begin organizing the transfer of the bodies to the monument. In it it was said that one of its purposes had to be fulfilled: "that of burying those who were sacrificed for God and for Spain and all those who fell in our Crusade, without distinction of the field in which they fought, as imposed by the Christian spirit of forgiveness that inspired its creation, as long as each one was of Spanish nationality and Catholic religion."[142][143] As Daniel Sueiro highlighted in 1976, by requiring the requirement that they be Catholic, many of the republican combatants, "who although they died for Spain, they also, however, evidently did not die for God, at least not in a very special way."[142].
According to Daniel Sueiro, that the Valley of the Fallen was intended to bury only the dead of the national side would be demonstrated, in addition to the Decree creating the monument itself in 1940, a decree promulgated in 1946 to indefinitely extend the maximum period of ten years that the law established so that the corpses of Spanish citizens could remain buried in their initial or temporary graves - after that period they had to be taken to the common grave or transferred to niches paid for by their relatives. Without this extension, no body would have been able to be taken to the Valley and hence the need for the decree. Well, the decree stated that the extension would only affect "remains of those who died in our War of Liberation, whether they perished in the ranks of the National Army or were murdered or executed by the Marxist hordes in the period between July 18, 1936 and April 1, 1939, or even at a later date, in the event that the death was a direct consequence of war wounds or suffering." of prison. "Not a single mention, as can be seen - nor was there one in the decree creating the monument - to the Spaniards who died in opposite trenches," concludes Daniel Sueiro.[144].
At the beginning of 1959, some twenty thousand corpses had already been buried in the underground galleries opened under the side chapels of the transept of the basilica.[145] Joan Pinyol managed to document at least 500 cases of corpses that, like that of her grandfather, were taken to the Valley without the consent of their relatives.[146] According to Susana Sueiro Seoane, "the Regime needed many dead to fill that enormous mausoleum, but the The authorities' call for the war dead to be buried there was not very successful, so in the end, the transfer of remains was carried out en masse and with great carelessness, without identification or authorization, and on many occasions at night, specifically with regard to the republican dead, who had been murdered by the nationals and buried in clandestine common graves. Most of those listed as unknown in the "Valley" record books were taken there without the knowledge of their relatives. It is not clear today [2019] the number of those who were buried in the basilica's ossuaries, nor the precise identity of all of them. They may house the mortal remains of some 40,000 combatants from both sides. The place where war victims are buried is totally inaccessible. Relatives who have gone from not knowing where their parents or siblings were to finding out that they are buried next to Franco, cannot go and place a bouquet of flowers over his remains.
According to Susana Sueiro Seoane, the reason why it was decided at the last moment to also bury dead people from the Republican side in the Valley was due to the Franco regime's need to achieve "international recognition" by giving "a more acceptable image to Western democracies." On the other hand, this historian has pointed out that "revisionist historians"[149] have used the fact that dead people from the Republican side were also buried as "proof" that Franco conceived it as a "monument of reconciliation", forgetting that "the decree creating the monument, dated April 1, 1940, leaves no doubt that it was intended to honor and remember "those who fell for God and for the Country", the heroes and martyrs of the glorious Crusade, that is, the victors... But even in the speech at the inauguration of the monument in 1959, the idea of "our martyrs" continued to be insisted upon. In fact, on the access doors to the underground tombs where the war dead are buried, you can still read the inscription "Fallen by God and Spain, 1936-1939."[150]
The Valley of the Fallen was officially inaugurated on April 1, 1959, exactly twenty years after the end of the civil war. The solemn ceremony, which rivaled the celebration of Victory in 1939, was attended by government ministers, prosecutors of the Francoist Cortes and members of the National Council of the Movement, representatives of all the institutions of the regime and the single party FET and the JONS, the civil and military authorities of all the provinces, the high command of the Armies, two cardinals and a large number of bishops and archbishops, and members of the diplomatic corps. The Generalissimo Franco, dressed as a captain general, entered under the canopy "Palio (canopy)") into the basilica with his wife dressed in black with a mantilla and comb.[151][152] In the speech that the Generalissimo gave before thousands of ex-combatants, provisional ensigns, and relatives of the Fallen (from the Franco side)[153] he praised the heroism of "our Fallen" in defense of "our lines" and when he referred to the enemy he said that he had been forced to "bite the dust of defeat."[154]
Thus, not only did Franco not show the slightest desire for reconciliation, but his speech was “triumphant and vengeful,” according to Paul Preston. Precisely what the press highlighted the next day was that the inauguration of the Valley of the Fallen had been the culmination of Franco's Victory in 1939.[154] The newspaper La Vanguardia Española, for example, headlined On the 20th Anniversary of the Victory. Emotional day in the Valley of the Fallen. And from the Caudillo's speech the following phrases stood out on the cover: «In the entire development of our Crusade there is much that is providential and miraculous. How else could we describe the decisive help that we receive from divine protection in so many vicissitudes? »; «That glorious epic of our liberation cost Spain much so that it could be forgotten»; «Our victory was not a partial victory, but a total victory for everyone. "It was not administered for the benefit of a group or a class, but for the entire nation." And as an introduction to the full reproduction of Franco's speech, the following phrase of his: "The anti-Spain was defeated and defeated, but it is not dead."[155].
Paul Preston has highlighted that the inauguration of the Valley of the Fallen was "the apotheosis of Franco's career at the national level" - the culmination of his international career would occur six months later, with the visit of the American president Dwight D. Eisenhower to Spain. was celebrated in his memory. He always entered the basilica under a canopy.[157].
On October 13, 1961, a large concentration of the European extreme right was held in the Valley of the Fallen, convened by the self-proclaimed European Assembly of Ex-Combatants and organized by the Falangist minister José Solís Ruiz. Groups of German Nazis, Italian fascists and other losers of World War II went there. All of them paraded alongside former Franco combatants to pay tribute to the only coreligionist who had emerged victorious from that conflict. Franco did not consider it appropriate to attend but sent a message of welcome and congratulations through General Pablo Martín Alonso.[158].
Until the entry into force of the Historical Memory Law in 2007,[159] every November 20 (20N, anniversary of the death of José Antonio Primo de Rivera and Francisco Franco), the Valley of the Fallen became a meeting point for far-right followers of Francoism and José Antonio Primo de Rivera, founder of the Spanish Falange.[160].
The decision to bury him in the Valley was made by the government of the time "Annex: Fifteenth Government of Spain during the Franco dictatorship (1975)"), a decision ratified by King Juan Carlos I[166] who asked the father abbot for written permission to consent to it:
In early November 1975, when Franco's death seemed imminent, conservative architect Ramón Andrada Pfeiffer was instructed to check that Franco's tomb was prepared to receive his remains. According to Andrada, it was necessary to break the concrete slab that covered the tomb, divert the pipes that crossed it and cover its walls with concrete walls to isolate the grave and then line them with lead.[168] They then went to look for the 1,500 kilo granite slab that the architect Diego Méndez had prepared in 1959, exactly the same as the one used to cover the tomb of José Antonio Primo de Rivera, and which was in the workshop of the Alpedrete stonemason who had carved them. A specialist engraved the name "Francisco Franco" on the top. They took it to the Valley and did several trials until they were able to place the slab on the tomb in a few seconds, as would be required when the funeral was carried out.[169] The sculptor Juan de Ávalos commented on a Spanish Television program, Tal Cual, broadcast in 1993, that Ramón Andrada Pfeiffer had told him the following: "Juan, I am tremendously upset because in fifteen days we have to prepare the tomb for Franco."
After the promulgation of the Historical Memory Law in 2007, during the legislature of José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero, and years later, in September 2018 when Pedro Sánchez was President of the Government, the exhumation of Francisco Franco del Valle de los Caídos was approved by decree law with an absolute majority in the Congress of Deputies. However, after several sentences and appeals by the Franco family to try to prevent the exhumation of their grandfather, it was not until October 24, 2019, when the dictator Francisco Franco was exhumed from the Valley of the Fallen to be buried with his wife, Carmen Polo, in the Mingorrubio cemetery, an event carried out after the approval of the Supreme Court.[26] The President of the Government Pedro Sánchez declared that the exhumation of Francisco Franco from the Valley of the Fallen "puts an end to a moral affront" that Spain had suffered since 1975, "the exaltation of the figure of a dictator in a public space."[170].
In 2013 it was necessary to undertake a profound process of partial repair of some sculptures, due to defects in the materials that the author used when making them.[179] In 2016 the restoration work has been completed, despite the fact that it is suspected that the problems due to the incompatibility of materials may also affect other sculptures and the interior waterproofing of the Basilica is deficient, causing leaks and leaks.[180].
In 2017, the UN special rapporteur for the promotion of truth, justice, reparation and guarantees of non-repetition reminded the Spanish Government "urgently" of the demands of the victims of Franco's regime, appealing to human rights and leaving aside positions of political parties.[181].
On September 13, 2018, the Congress of Deputies validated a decree law, drafted by the Council of Ministers of the socialist Government chaired by Pedro Sánchez, which approved the exhumation of the remains of the dictator Francisco Franco and their transfer outside the basilica. The decree went ahead with an absolute majority (votes in favor of the PSOE, Unidas Podemos, PNV, ERC, PDeCAT, Compromís, EH Bildu, Canarian Coalition and Nueva Canarias (172 yeses); abstention of the PP, Ciudadanos, Unión del Pueblo Navarro and Foro Asturias (164 votes); and the contrary votes "by mistake" of the popular deputies Jesús Posada and José Ignacio Llorens).[182] The The exhumation of Francisco Franco was finally carried out on October 24, 2019.[26] The President of the Government Pedro Sánchez declared that the exhumation of Francisco Franco from the Valley of the Fallen "puts an end to a moral affront" that Spain had been carrying since 1975, "the exaltation of the figure of a dictator in a public space."[170].
The historian Paul Preston declared "The Valley of the Fallen must not disappear (...) In Spain there are people who confuse oblivion with reconciliation and memory with revenge."[183] The official name of the complex became Valle de Cuelgamuros by Law 20/2022, of October 19, on Democratic Memory.[3].
El País
On November 11, 2025, the winning project of the Cuelgamuros Valley resignification contest was announced. It was the project "The base and the cross" by Pereda Pérez Arquitectos y Lignum S.L. Through a "great crack" it will be transformed into a place of dialogue and plurality for all Spanish citizens.[186].
The nave is at a lower level to enhance the chancel "Channel (architecture)") and break the monotony of such a long space. It is divided into four sections, marked by series of large transverse arches, crossed in the vault to form coffered ceilings.
The dimensions of the current temple are greater than those of the original perforation, which was 11 by 11 meters. The technical difficulties of expanding the tunnel were very great due to the granitic structure of the cliff, with joints that could cause landslides, to the point that the decision was made to solidify the existing tunnel with the debris from the expansion of the floor and sides, and once this was completed and consolidated, to proceed with the total emptying. In August 1954, the interior lining was made, with large concreted transverse arches, as well as the sides and the floor, which contributes to the stability of the whole and to the support of the mass of stone that gravitates over the vault.
To the right and left are six small chapels, marked on the walls of the nave by large alabaster reliefs corresponding to different invocations of the Virgin as Patroness of the Armies of land, sea and air and for her connection to important aspects of the history of Spain. In order of entry, on the right: Immaculate Conception, Our Lady of Carmen (both are the work of Carlos Ferreira) and Our Lady of Loreto (Ramón Mateu); to the left; Our Lady of Africa (Ferreira), Our Lady of Mercy (Lapayese) and Our Lady of Pilar (Mateu).
In these chapels the decoration is very simple: altar fronts in relief and triptychs in the Flemish Gothic style from the 16th century. hand-painted on leather, in the manner of the Spanish souvenir guadamecíes and medieval traces, which were made in the 19th century. by the Lapayese. In both cases scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary are represented. Other sculptural elements present inside each chapel are also the work of Lapayese, father and son. These are two alabaster images of the Apostles placed on the side walls of each of them, in such a way that they form a group of twelve (instead of Judas Iscariot, Saint Matthias was chosen).
On the walls, interspersed between each chapel, hang eight tapestries from the Apocalypse of Saint John series, a copy of a Flemish collection of the century acquired by Charles V and brought to Spain by Philip II. The originals are in the Palacio de La Granja. However, these replicas have outstanding artistic value.
Below the tapestries, two padded courses run along the walls, like a plinth.
From the large nave you ascend to the transept by a staircase with ten steps. On the sides, eight statues can be seen on pilasters, the work of Antonio Martín and Luis Sanguino, with their heads bowed and covered, inviting an attitude of respect and silence, since the visitor is in a sacred space and in a large war cemetery. They represent fallen contenders in the war on land, sea, air, as well as volunteers. The rough work of the clothing contrasts with the polish of the faces and arms.
Along this space there are two rows of benches to listen to the mass.
In the central part of the transept, the decorative norms adopted in the nave and spaces that precede it vary; However, affinity with these is achieved due to their very disparity. The layout is rigidly classical in the mural canvases, and they only break in the four main arches, supporting the dome cap, formed by padded voussoirs that flare.
In the very center of the transept and vertically with the monumental cross on the outside, the main altar is located, formed by a large slab of polished granite in a single piece. The front front of the altar table is decorated with a bas-relief of the Holy Burial, in gold plate, designed by architect Diego Méndez and executed by Espinos. The back front represents the Last Supper. On its sides, you can see the group of "Tetramorphs" or symbols of the four evangelists: the bull of Saint Luke, the lion of Saint Mark, the angel of Saint Matthew and the eagle of Saint John.
As the only decoration of the altar, and above it, stands a carving of the crucified Christ by the image maker Julio Beobide and polychromed by Ignacio Zuloaga.
The lateral arms of the transept, 12.80 meters wide, end in the chapels of the Most Holy and the Holy Sepulchre.
Around the presbytery, the images of four large bronze archangels stand out, 7 m high and the work of Ávalos: Saint Raphael, Saint Michael, Saint Gabriel and Saint Uriel (Yezrael or Azrael).
Saint Raphael is represented according to the role he played in this story, with the pilgrim's staff as a guide for the character in the book and with the fish with whose gall he cured his blindness. Saint Michael is represented with the sword, as triumphant over the rebellion of Luzbel or Satan. Saint Gabriel holds a lily, in reference to his mission of having announced the Virgin Mary. He had also previously announced to Zechariah "Zechariah (father of John the Baptist)") the birth of Saint John the Baptist. Saint Uriel, as he was known in the Christian Middle Ages especially from Saint Isidore of Seville, is the Yezrael or Azrael of the Jews and is represented in the same way that they do: with his head bowed and covered and his hands raised in a prayerful attitude. He is the archangel who, according to some apocryphal stories of the Old Testament not considered to be inspired by God (although Jewish and Christian tradition has accepted some elements of them), presents the deceased before Yahveh: hence he is also the one who presents the souls of the fallen before God. Of the four archangels in the basilica, he is the one that attracts the attention of visitors the most.
The transept is completed by three fronts: at the end of the basilica, the choir; on the right side, the Chapel of the Sepulcher; and to the left of the transept, the Chapel of the Santísimo.
Above the transept there is a dome, topped by a skylight, decorated with a mosaic by Santiago Padrós. From the front, the image, typically Byzantine and Romanesque, of the "Pantocrator" is represented in the center: Almighty Christ, King and Judge, in majesty, with the book of Life in which the phrase "Ego sum lux mundi" ("I am the light of the world") is inscribed. The typical "mandorla or mystical almond" of the Romanesque art that surrounds it is made up of the wings of seraphim and cherubs. The presence of angels in Heaven is also clearly represented by others in the mosaic, with censers and swords, according to the symbolic descriptions of some texts of the Old and New Testaments.
Below Christ the theme of the triumph or exaltation of the Holy Cross, owner of the sanctuary, is observed. The "True Cross" is being exalted on Mount Calvary, where those of the two thieves who were crucified are discovered on both sides.
To the right of Jesus Christ is a large group of Spanish saints with James the Greater at their head, and to the left another of Spanish martyrs presided over by Saint Paul (that is, the two Apostles who, according to tradition, came to preach in Spain). The entire history of Spain as a Catholic nation is summarized here.
From the opposite side, in the center is the group of the Assumption of the Virgin, raised to heaven by angels from a mountain that represents Montserrat. The representation of Montserrat is due to the following reasons: the Virgin of this invocation is the Patroness of Catalonia, Padrós was Catalan, his wife also had that name and at one point a community of Benedictine monks from Montserrat was about to come to take charge of the sanctuary, before it was dealt with by the abbey of Silos. On the mountain the carpenter's saw is discovered, in such a way that the coat of arms of the Montserrat abbey is depicted. On the mountain itself, on the other hand, there is a scallop, scallop or shell of Santiago, in allusion to the name of the artist, and an inscription referring to its creation by him.
On the sides of the group of the Assumption of the Virgin are the civil and religious fallen and the military fallen in the Civil War, a cannon and five flags are also observed; three flags of Spain (the red one) without identifying shields, another with the Cross of Burgundy and a Falangist one, the latter being the only strictly Franco symbology existing in the entire church.
The mosaic, of more than five million tesserae, was made flat in the Royal Theater of Madrid, with the difficulty of having to later incorporate it into a vaulted, dome-shaped plane, which was done by the so-called indirect method. Therefore, once installed, Padrós observed that between the central column of angels of the Assumption group (the only column originally designed) and the two groups of fallen, especially that of the contenders, there was a very large space. To break that distance, already on the site he decided to raise two other side columns of smaller and more playful angels.
Padrós made real portraits of figures, both historical (some saints, for example Saint Ignatius and Saint Teresa), and others that he drew in the Madrid Metro to capture in the mosaic, his own self-portrait and that of his wife, or that of other notable figures of the time (among them, Miguel de Unamuno in the role of Saint Raimundo de Fitero).
To save the mosaic from the humidity that was foreseen and that can be seen with the naked eye in various parts of the basilica, Diego Méndez built a double dome: above the mosaic dome, which is covered by a layer of asphalt fabric that makes it waterproof, there is a very wide opening and another upper dome.
At the head of the temple is the choir "Choir (architecture)") of Renaissance inspiration, semicircular in plan and 70 seats arranged in three heights or levels, joined, at the back, with a gallery that leads to the staircase and the elevator of the cross. The monks and the choir are located there during the celebration of mass. The seating is made of walnut wood and was carved by Ramón Lapayese with medieval war scenes. According to its author, the theme was free, the reference to the medieval Crusades seems evident, especially because in some of the panels you can see houses in the style of those existing in the Holy Land, in addition to other details that point in that direction.
In alabaster there are some relief images of Benedictine saints, some of them with the daily habit and others with the coral or cowl, and two round figures of the same material: Saint Benedict of Nursia with the book of the Holy Rule that he wrote to legislate the life of his monks, and Saint Francis of Assisi with a crucifix in his hands.
On the right side of the transept is the Chapel of the Sepulcher with three sculptures by Lapayese: a recumbent Christ and the images of Calvary, that is, the Virgin Mary and Saint John the Evangelist. On the ceiling there is another mosaic by Santiago Padrós, which in this case represents the Holy Burial.
To the left of the transept is the Chapel of the Santísimo. In it there is a silver tabernacle from Espídos, in which the reliefs of the Apostles and other motifs can be seen.
Behind him is a Flemish Gothic style altarpiece from the 17th century (made in the 19th century) in which the Holy Trinity is represented in a scene of pain: the Father, with the Holy Spirit in the form of a dove, holds the dead Son in his arms, showing the world how far God's love for men has reached. It is surrounded by images of six apostles. Under the altar other paintings of saints in a similar style are discovered.
The chapel is crowned on its ceiling by a mosaic of the Ascension of Jesus Christ, the work of Victoriano Pardo. In this way, in the two large side chapels we find representations of the Passion and Death and of Glory as central mysteries of Christianity, while at the same time they are related to the presence of so many fallen from the war in the place, which thus becomes a sanctuary of hope in eternal life.